45 degree ramp dimensions

[Bigtim29]

Hi guys, I’m looking to make a 45 degree ramp out of plywood, I’ve seen several tutorials on YouTube on how to do it and have the power tools for it. The reason I am making a ramp is because I have no where around where I live to jump my talion. How long, tall, and wide should I make the ramp so that the talion can be sent pretty well but not stupid high.

 

[Vedak]

I'd factor in size of the ramp on whether or not you want it portable. I made mines at a 2:1 ratio, so if your ramp is 30'' long, make it 15'' tall. Width is up to you, but give yourself a safety factor- wouldn't want a ramp that's only 1'' wider than the vehicle. maybe 1.5-2x wider than the car. Or make it crazy wide, so you can go ham without fear of missing the ramp.

I forget exactly the dimension of my hobbled together ramp- but it was in the neighborhood of 30'' wide, 18'' tall, 36'' long.

Whatever you do, make sure to spend the time and countersink the screw holes. I didn't do that initially, and sheared off small bits of my aluminum rear skid. From a screw head that was a tad bit higher than the surface of the ramp.

 

[Vedak]

This is my ramp

And what can happen if you don't countersink the screw heads, or at least make sure the it is slightly below the surface. Those are aluminum shavings

 

[Bigtim29]

How thick should the side boards be, and how thick should the board for the 45 degree angle be?

 

[Hammer Down]

I like to use 3/8 - 1/2” real CDX plywood not that cheap OSB chipboard crap! For the sides and the face.
If you want the ultimate ramp surface you can put HDPE on the ramp face instead of plywood.

 

[GRC]

Nice and wide for sure. I made a cardboard ramp as a first step to seeing what I might need. It's a little over 2 feet wide. It works, but it's really not wide enough. I can't approach it with speed, any slight deviation and the car gets sent off the side. If the approach is the slightest bit tilted, it's impossible to hit consistently. I basically roll up slowly and accelerate once I hit it. I just ordered a 30" wide ramp. I'm still worried it may not be wide enough. If I were building, I'd go at least 3' wide.

In case you're interested, the ramp I ordered is on sale. If you have the tools already, you can make one for much less, but $109 is a pretty good deal.
https://usa.banggood.com/Racing-Hig...p-1368684.html?rmmds=myorder&cur_warehouse=CN

 

[Bigtim29]

So here’s my plan. 1/2in side boards, 1/4in-3/8in face. 21” high, 42” long, 36” wide. How’s that sound .

 

[suchtragedy]

So here’s my plan. 1/2in side boards, 1/4in-3/8in face. 21” high, 42” long, 36” wide. How’s that sound .

If you go 4 feet wide then you can just make straight cuts on a standard 4x8 piece of plywood and not have to cut off 12 inches on the end to make it 36 inches.

Here's a thread I had a while back when I made a ramp, might be worth a browse for you to get some ideas before you commit.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/show-me-your-ramps.19488/

 

[LMC]

If you go 4 feet wide then you can just make straight cuts on a standard 4x8 piece of plywood and not have to cut off 12 inches on the end to make it 36 inches.

Here's a thread I had a while back when I made a ramp, might be worth a browse for you to get some ideas before you commit.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/show-me-your-ramps.19488/

4’ would fit perfectly in the box of a truck too ?

 

[Vedak]

Also bear in mind, the bigger the ramp and thicker materials, the heavier. I have a bad back, and that would come into play.

 

[Hammer Down]

Too keep weight down you could cut holes in the sides that double as handles. Think Swiss cheese ?
1/4” for the face is kinda thin imo. with speed and heavier trucks you will smash holes in it quickly...

 

[suchtragedy]

Too keep weight down you could cut holes in the sides that double as handles. Think Swiss cheese ?
1/4” for the face is kinda thin imo. with speed and heavier trucks you will smash holes in it quickly...

One trick is if using thinner plywood to double layer it so it's still easy to bend and secure in place but strong with more layers. If going with thicker plywood that's harder to bed then soaking it with water first to make it flex better and making sure the grain is running parallel with the ramp curve.

 

[Hammer Down]

One trick is if using thinner plywood to double layer it so it's still easy to bend and secure in place but strong with more layers. If going with thicker plywood that's harder to bed then soaking it with water first to make it flex better and making sure the grain is running parallel with the ramp curve.

Thanks, I’m a carpenter ? ??

 

[suchtragedy]

Thanks, I’m a carpenter ? ??

I'm a youtube certified engineer and master fabricator

 

[Bigtim29]

Too keep weight down you could cut holes in the sides that double as handles. Think Swiss cheese ?
1/4” for the face is kinda thin imo. with speed and heavier trucks you will smash holes in it quickly...

Would 3/8” thick for the face be better?

 

[Hammer Down]

You could do a couple layers of 1/4” also if that’s easier to follow your radius/curve. 3/8” would also work depending on how big your trucks are and how fast you hit the ramp...

Just say’n 1/4” is kinda thin for my style that’s all. ?

 

[Bigtim29]

I see what you mean. I’ll just be sending a talion v4 and fully upgraded slash 4x4 off of it. I’ll do one 3/8” and soak it so it can bend to the 45 degree angle easier.

 

[Hammer Down]

You could soak it but I don’t think it will be necessary ?‍

 

[Vedak]

You could do a couple layers of 1/4” also if that’s easier to follow your radius/curve. 3/8” would also work depending on how big your trucks are and how fast you hit the ramp...

Just say’n 1/4” is kinda thin for my style that’s all. ?

We building a skate ramp or something? lol

Your method would be my decision as well, if I was leaving it either stationary or somewhere on the property. But being the weak little sissy that I am, lighter ramps are easier to scoot around.

 

[jondilly1974]

You want a full 4ft width and face it with a sheet of HDPE