Felony 8s Felony rebuild

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It is 2000cst. which is Diff oil. which converts to 160 weight shock oil.
I run stock shock oil also just cranked the collars all the way down on the shock springs. And I just ground out a chunk of the rear brace on mine like @phildogg 👍🏼
 
Timing will give minimal speed increase but put more stress on the motor. Will cause a lot more heat also in turn lessening the life of the motor. Figure most Castle setups/motors run best about 8-10° of timing
 
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Update #4
I changed the Diff oil, whatever was in it was low and gray witch probably means that the gears where wearing I filled them with 500K and greased the outside of the Diff with Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease.
The screw to take the wheel Hex off was so tight I think I would have twisted my driver before I got the screw out. I was going to oil the bearings.
I oiled the bearing on the front Diff (I just used 30w shock oil) since I took that Diff all the way apart, I did not take the rear Diff all apart. I let I sit and then I filled it up, I also added ceramic bearing oil the ones on the spool since they are hybrid ceramic (which means that balls are ceramic, and the rest of the bearing is steal).
I got the spool gear today from my hobby shop I had trouble getting the 27/34 to work with me having a heat sink on my motor so I took it off I am going to have to glue a driver in the grub screw when I want to go to 29t pinon because the head is striped out.
I attached the rear, front, and the top plate (for the spool) and I temporally hooked the ESC up to see if it all worked and there was a bunch a friction, so I took the rear off and that did not fix it and loosened the motor mount and slid the motor over, it still was stiff to the point that I could not move the drive shaft by hand. I took the top plate off and found that it (the spool front drive cup) was rubbing on the motor mount. Can @phildogg or @Edough13 help me? Do I need to do some small dremeling or am i doing something wrong?
TN-RC

PS: Sorry the photos are bad I had to use my GoPro I will be getting a new (to me) T6i body in the next 2w.

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Update #4
I changed the Diff oil, whatever was in it was low and gray witch probably means that the gears where wearing I filled them with 500K and greased the outside of the Diff with Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease.
The screw to take the wheel Hex off was so tight I think I would have twisted my driver before I got the screw out. I was going to oil the bearings.
I oiled the bearing on the front Diff (I just used 30w shock oil) since I took that Diff all the way apart, I did not take the rear Diff all apart. I let I sit and then I filled it up, I also added ceramic bearing oil the ones on the spool since they are hybrid ceramic (which means that balls are ceramic, and the rest of the bearing is steal).
I got the spool gear today from my hobby shop I had trouble getting the 27/34 to work with me having a heat sink on my motor so I took it off I am going to have to glue a driver in the grub screw when I want to go to 29t pinon because the head is striped out.
I attached the rear, front, and the top plate (for the spool) and I temporally hooked the ESC up to see if it all worked and there was a bunch a friction, so I took the rear off and that did not fix it and loosened the motor mount and slid the motor over, it still was stiff to the point that I could not move the drive shaft by hand. I took the top plate off and found that it (the spool front drive cup) was rubbing on the motor mount. Can @phildogg or @Edough13 help me? Do I need to do some small dremeling or am i doing something wrong?
TN-RC

PS: Sorry the photos are bad I had to use my GoPro I will be getting a new (to me) T6i body in the next 2w.

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Are both the cups the same on the spool?

Mine had two different cups. Mine were rubbing because it was swapped. Problem fixed after switching the cups.
 
Update #4
I changed the Diff oil, whatever was in it was low and gray witch probably means that the gears where wearing I filled them with 500K and greased the outside of the Diff with Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease.
The screw to take the wheel Hex off was so tight I think I would have twisted my driver before I got the screw out. I was going to oil the bearings.
I oiled the bearing on the front Diff (I just used 30w shock oil) since I took that Diff all the way apart, I did not take the rear Diff all apart. I let I sit and then I filled it up, I also added ceramic bearing oil the ones on the spool since they are hybrid ceramic (which means that balls are ceramic, and the rest of the bearing is steal).
I got the spool gear today from my hobby shop I had trouble getting the 27/34 to work with me having a heat sink on my motor so I took it off I am going to have to glue a driver in the grub screw when I want to go to 29t pinon because the head is striped out.
I attached the rear, front, and the top plate (for the spool) and I temporally hooked the ESC up to see if it all worked and there was a bunch a friction, so I took the rear off and that did not fix it and loosened the motor mount and slid the motor over, it still was stiff to the point that I could not move the drive shaft by hand. I took the top plate off and found that it (the spool front drive cup) was rubbing on the motor mount. Can @phildogg or @Edough13 help me? Do I need to do some small dremeling or am i doing something wrong?
TN-RC

PS: Sorry the photos are bad I had to use my GoPro I will be getting a new (to me) T6i body in the next 2w.

View attachment 205324

View attachment 205327

View attachment 205328

View attachment 205329

View attachment 205330

View attachment 205332

View attachment 205334
Edit: Extra photo
View attachment 205338
I run the PPS mount so mine is different than the stock mount but I didn't have an issue in my Typhon which has the stock mount with the Spool from Kenny. Could be the cup as @RedondoBeachRC mentioned as I know Kenny had issues getting some parts for a while so could be a different cup than he usually uses. You should be fine to dremel a bit off the stock mount just make sure not to get the bearing seat of the mount or just replace the cup with a smaller outer diameter cup that has an 8mm inside if swapping them doesn't work. Also you can message Kenny and I'm sure he will send you a different one free.
 
Are both the cups the same on the spool?

Mine had two different cups. Mine were rubbing because it was swapped. Problem fixed after switching the cups.
I will look into that now, Thanks!
I run the PPS mount so mine is different than the stock mount but I didn't have an issue in my Typhon which has the stock mount with the Spool from Kenny. Could be the cup as @RedondoBeachRC mentioned as I know Kenny had issues getting some parts for a while so could be a different cup than he usually uses. You should be fine to dremel a bit off the stock mount just make sure not to get the bearing seat of the mount or just replace the cup with a smaller outer diameter cup that has an 8mm inside if swapping them doesn't work. Also you can message Kenny and I'm sure he will send you a different one free.
Thanks a lot, you guys have helped so much in this build you have no idea.
 
Update #5
I got the spool in and to work I had the take it out 3 times to keep taking off more with the dermal.
I was able to get the car running! I still need to reduce to oil in the shocks and get the suspension dialed in that is why I did not put the front on, and the rear defuse so I could take the shocks off EZ.
I was able to get 35mph on 50% 3S and then 43mph on full
I am having trouble with my motor clogging, and it takes about 2s before I can have throttle, I might be the Transmitter and receiver or because I am running a Hobbywing with a 160a. who knows!?!? but what I know is that should not affect my top speed and I am getting a new transmitter and receiver the same one you have @RedondoBeachRC
2 Thinks that I learned today is that Hobbywing model numbering is just the size, my motor is a 4985 it is 46mm and then counting the built-in fins on it, it is 49mm and it is 86.6mm long. something else that is interesting is that my motor is bigger than a 1717 but is only rated for 6S. 1717 47.6x85.1mm and the 4985 is 49x86.5mm.
Thanks for all the help you guys have given over the last 2 mounts and I know that I am just getting started true I am almost done building, but I am new to speed running and I have never been over 100mph, so I have a lot of work ahead of me,
TN-RC

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I will look into that now, Thanks!

Thanks a lot, you guys have helped so much in this build you have no idea.
the cups were both 14mm.
 
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Thank you @Harriot10 I just got some StealStick at Menards they did not have the plastic stuff, so I just got the steal, but it was cheaper than Amazon. now I need to print a wheel balancer.

Edit: It is snowy here now glad I got out and tested it yesterday.
 
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Alright I got it all back together without rebuilding the shocks I was tired of waiting.
I got my Hoons and my S3's balanced, wow throws GRP's are way off, I balanced the Hoons because I am going to use then on a different car and I was curious how off they where. They where off a little, the spoked one was balanced the other front one was just a little off and the back ones needed balanced.
I ran 3S and 4S last night, it was too cold (50 with the sun set) for S3's. The road is wide and long but slick. I got 48mph with 3S and 50mph with 4S. But it was all over the place. it is 60 and sunny so I am going to go run on a small road (600ft), but the surface is almost perfect for speed running hoping for 80-90mph.
When I get the shock oil in, I will rebuild the socks but at this point it runs fine the way it is.
I am plaining on getting a Radio link transmitter/reserve and a C8 body in the next month.
TN-RC

PS/Edit: I am plaining on getting a MMX8S sometime this summer since the Hobbywing motor and the Spectrum ESC don't like each other. It clogs when I pull the throttle for 1s to 2s.

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It got up to 70 degrees today. I went to run, and I forgot my GPS. but I was there so I did some testing on 3S it was full throttle but when I went to 4S the grub screw in the drive cup (on the spool) came all the way out and the other one was loose so I will be getting a bag of screws tomorrow or Thursday from my hobby shop and will be installing them with a lot of lock tight. I can't believe they came loose since I just tightened them both when the last one came loose right after I installed it.
 
Got new grub screws and screws to add the Airo plats that go in the steering cutout. Got 55mph on 3S and 77mph on 4S both PB's wanted to go to 6S but was short on time. I ran S1's this time and I love the grip, had trouble with my spool locking up at one point but I loosened the screws on the Center spool gear cover.
One question that I expect no one to have an answer to but why does this only come with 4 when you need 5 for the splitter? Just to make more money and they have a 3x10 verson that has been discontinued is that, so you have a higher chance to loose them? https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/large-head-screws-m3x8mm-4/ARA727308.html
 
Yesterday I ran 34/34 today I tried 40/34 and the ESC was cutting out on 3S and 4S and went back to 34/34 and tried 6S for the first time and was all over the place and got 82mph fastest 6S (lol) and fastest for 2022. I tried again and smashed the curb right next to me at 78mph messed up the Airo plates the go in the front the splitter is trash (but I have fixed it over 4 times, so I needed a new one) broke some of the foam, broke more parts off the body and broke the eye hole on the bottom of the shock. the worst part was I mingled some of my FR GRP and I don't know if I can fix it so that means that the crash cost me about $60 unless I can fix the tire and then it will be about $20 I think can but I won't be able to run my S1 set over 80mph.
 
Long time no update.
So, the crash was worse than it seemed, so I had to replace the hinge pin, a-arm, bottom eye on the shock, the body is more trashed (but still using it) and I just replaced the whole front splitter assembly. I made my own front splitter clone on a scroll-saw, I think it turned out good. I beat my 3S PB with a 61mph. Since then, I have had problems with the car, and I have been nervous when I go to drive. On Sun I bashed the tires just a little to get them ruffed up that was a good chose I got a 61 on 3S (tided my PB) with a lightly used battery and I started using a new road on Fri. Yesterday I got a 63mph on 3S and a 79mph on 4S (let out early could have got 1 or 2 more mph) with Hoons. My buddy thought that the S3 tires where too soft of a compound for the road we were running on since the road has pebbles and it is rough. I am thinking about buying some Hard Wall S7 slicks unless anybody has something to say about that. We are thinking that if it does not have the tread, it will stick less to the pebbles. We are thinking that the tires were picking up so many rocks that it did not have traction and that makes sense since it is bumping up and down when I am making my run because of the pebbles under the tires. I should try blowing off the road, is it worth my time?
I am still running 34/34 with no heat problems but only running 3S and 4S at this time.
 
Long time no update.
So, the crash was worse than it seemed, so I had to replace the hinge pin, a-arm, bottom eye on the shock, the body is more trashed (but still using it) and I just replaced the whole front splitter assembly. I made my own front splitter clone on a scroll-saw, I think it turned out good. I beat my 3S PB with a 61mph. Since then, I have had problems with the car, and I have been nervous when I go to drive. On Sun I bashed the tires just a little to get them ruffed up that was a good chose I got a 61 on 3S (tided my PB) with a lightly used battery and I started using a new road on Fri. Yesterday I got a 63mph on 3S and a 79mph on 4S (let out early could have got 1 or 2 more mph) with Hoons. My buddy thought that the S3 tires where too soft of a compound for the road we were running on since the road has pebbles and it is rough. I am thinking about buying some Hard Wall S7 slicks unless anybody has something to say about that. We are thinking that if it does not have the tread, it will stick less to the pebbles. We are thinking that the tires were picking up so many rocks that it did not have traction and that makes sense since it is bumping up and down when I am making my run because of the pebbles under the tires. I should try blowing off the road, is it worth my time?
I am still running 34/34 with no heat problems but only running 3S and 4S at this time.

The new GRP XM7 slick still hold pebbles but it is significantly firmer. I think you’ll like them better.
 
Long time no update.
So, the crash was worse than it seemed, so I had to replace the hinge pin, a-arm, bottom eye on the shock, the body is more trashed (but still using it) and I just replaced the whole front splitter assembly. I made my own front splitter clone on a scroll-saw, I think it turned out good. I beat my 3S PB with a 61mph. Since then, I have had problems with the car, and I have been nervous when I go to drive. On Sun I bashed the tires just a little to get them ruffed up that was a good chose I got a 61 on 3S (tided my PB) with a lightly used battery and I started using a new road on Fri. Yesterday I got a 63mph on 3S and a 79mph on 4S (let out early could have got 1 or 2 more mph) with Hoons. My buddy thought that the S3 tires where too soft of a compound for the road we were running on since the road has pebbles and it is rough. I am thinking about buying some Hard Wall S7 slicks unless anybody has something to say about that. We are thinking that if it does not have the tread, it will stick less to the pebbles. We are thinking that the tires were picking up so many rocks that it did not have traction and that makes sense since it is bumping up and down when I am making my run because of the pebbles under the tires. I should try blowing off the road, is it worth my time?
I am still running 34/34 with no heat problems but only running 3S and 4S at this time.
Did you balance the Tires/wheels? If you're going to do speed running they should be balanced.
 
The new GRP XM7 slick still hold pebbles but it is significantly firmer. I think you’ll like them better.

Did you balance the Tires/wheels? If you're going to do speed running they should be balanced.
Ok, thanks. We are going to blow off the road and try again.
I did have them balanced but the steal stick came off on 3 of the 4 I will need to rebalance them.
 
I got 67mph with 3S that is a new PB, on the set up I don't think I will be going any faster I might be able to pull off 1 or 2 more teeth on the pinon, I am happy with that run, but all my other runs (3S and 4S) the car would fly, 4 different times mid 60's and the car would float 0in-6in off the ground and gracefully land. My rake seems good it is about a centimeter different from front to rear, also I just seem to have not enough traction I wonder if the old C7 body does not give enough down force or if I should add weight. Some of the runs were on Hoons and some were on S3's. Would anyone be able to give me some help I just can't get this car to go fast and not crash.
 
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Here is the video of one of the take-offs yesterday, you might be able to hear the kid in the background say "wow" this was 66mph 4S.
Sorry the clip is so short I wanted to not have to post it on YT my 1st clip was 23mb and it was too big to post.
 

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