Typhon Arrma please loctite screws.

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And I don't "suspect" that you're lying, I "suspect" that either it was a mistake at the factory or it loosened up because of something you did.

There.... does that clear the air for ya?

And FYI - This is common with ALL brands. as a matter of fact, read the Arrma manual again. It says to check the car BEFORE it's first run. I "suspect" that's something you didn't do.

No brand, Traxxas, Losi, Arrma, Team Associated, Redcat, you name it, will be perfect out of the box 100% of the time. Their manuals even tell you that.

Welcome to the RC world.

Now just out of curiosity, try to break loose the motor mount bolts(if you haven't done so already) and see if it gives you a hard time.
I appreciate the clarification, but on my v4 kraton I took out the motor mounts with ease.
 
I appreciate the clarification, but on my v4 kraton I took out the motor mounts with ease.
I guess I am at fault for assuming "Ready To Run" meant what it implied. And I would be in the wrong for interpreting it that way.
 
I'm glad you don't beleive me, but I didnt sabotage my own model to make a post. I appreciate your input though.
I never said I don't believe you or sabotaged your car. I'm saying either it's an error by the factory or you screwed something up without realizing it.

I'm also saying that you calling out Arrma for not using loctite is another mistake. They do use it....moreso than other brands.

I'm not sure how much experience you have in RC, but it's common practice to go over a brand new car when you unbox it. That goes for any brand. None of them are perfect. This especially applies to the nitro vehicles. Those engines cause the chassis to vibrate a hell of a lot more.

Next time you buy a new car, and after every so many runs, bring your car in and give it a once over. It'll help.
 
From the factory, there is no loctite on that screw. It screws into a locknut. And FWIW, it will loosen again.
THANK YOU. For some actual advice, and I do intend to apply copious amounts of loctite to it and the other one upon arrival of replacements. Are there any other crucial screws I should inspect?
I never said I don't believe you or sabotaged your car. I'm saying either it's an error by the factory or you screwed something up without realizing it.

I'm also saying that you calling out Arrma for not using loctite is another mistake. They do use it....moreso than other brands.

I'm not sure how much experience you have in RC, but it's common practice to go over a brand new car when you unbox it. That goes for any brand. None of them are perfect. This especially applies to the nitro vehicles. Those engines cause the chassis to vibrate a hell of a lot more.

Next time you buy a new car, and after every so many runs, bring your car in and give it a once over. It'll help.
I had one about 10+ years ago when nitro was king, tmaxx and hot bodies buggy. Now I have got the v4kraton and v3 typhon for my girlfriend. I am experienced in fixing them but did not expect this part to fail on paved roads. I just wanted to let other new people acknowledge that this MIGHT be a problem.
THANK YOU. For some actual advice, and I do intend to apply copious amounts of loctite to it and the other one upon arrival of replacements. Are there any other crucial screws I should inspect?

I had one about 10+ years ago when nitro was king, tmaxx and hot bodies buggy. Now I have got the v4kraton and v3 typhon for my girlfriend. I am experienced in fixing them but did not expect this part to fail on paved roads. I just wanted to let other new people acknowledge that this MIGHT be a problem.
This 20 dollar part easily could of costed me ALOT more money if I would of hit something or got ran over by a vehicle.
 
I appreciate the clarification, but on my v4 kraton I took out the motor mounts with ease.
That surprises me. I got the typhon V4. I think we have the same motor setup....??? Not sure tho....

Either way, I'd go over the car now. You might've got a lemon. Even happens with real cars.... hence recall notices lol

My motor mount screws were loctited like a m#$%herf@!ker....like I said earlier, I snapped the ball off my allen wrench. It even gave the guys at the lhs a hard time. When they finally got it out the entire screw had loctite residue on it. They had to replace the screws because they stripped trying to get them out.

Idk, maybe you did get a bad deal. Like i said, you should go over the entire car and check it. It might save you trouble down the road.
 
Be careful where you get that loctite otherwise your steering will be locked up. I own 4 of the 6s trucks and I don't loctite that screw. I just check it and retighten as needed.

There are other screws that don't have loctite that will loosen as well. Like every screw that screws into plastic. You need to check them periodically.
 
That surprises me. I got the typhon V4. I think we have the same motor setup....??? Not sure tho....

Either way, I'd go over the car now. You might've got a lemon. Even happens with real cars.... hence recall notices lol

My motor mount screws were loctited like a m#$%herf@!ker....like I said earlier, I snapped the ball off my allen wrench. It even gave the guys at the lhs a hard time. When they finally got it out the entire screw had loctite residue on it. They had to replace the screws because they stripped trying to get them out.

Idk, maybe you did get a bad deal. Like i said, you should go over the entire car and check it. It might save you trouble down the road.
I plan on going over the entire car. I also invested in a decent set of hex drivers, that don't have ball ends. Which may of played a crucial part in me being able to take it apart. If youd like a link I'd be more than happy to send you it. Less than 20 dollars for a set of 4.
Be careful where you get that loctite otherwise your steering will be locked up. I own 4 of the 6s trucks and I don't loctite that screw. I just check it and retighten as needed.

There are other screws that don't have loctite that will loosen as well. Like every screw that screws into plastic. You need to check them periodically.
If you happen to come across a day where you are bored and have time. Can you send me a picture of suspect screws, that you check periodically?
 
THANK YOU. For some actual advice, and I do intend to apply copious amounts of loctite to it and the other one upon arrival of replacements. Are there any other crucial screws I should inspect?

I had one about 10+ years ago when nitro was king, tmaxx and hot bodies buggy. Now I have got the v4kraton and v3 typhon for my girlfriend. I am experienced in fixing them but did not expect this part to fail on paved roads. I just wanted to let other new people acknowledge that this MIGHT be a problem.

This 20 dollar part easily could of costed me ALOT more money if I would of hit something or got ran over by a vehicle.
@OwnsDaily . I'm glad you caught it in time. My best advice is #1 go over the entire car every now and then, depending on how often and hard you run the car. I check my nitros more often than my electrics.
#2 pay more attention to your suspension, steering, and motor. Make sure your steering linkage isn't binding and the screws are just past snug. That applies to suspension parts as well. You can tighten up motor mounts fairly tight.
#3 DON'T use a shitload of loctite! A little goes a long way. And don't ever, ever, ever, use red loctite. You'll regret it. Only use blue. And only use loctite when screwing into metal parts. Loctite for plastic is pointless.
#4 When screwing into plastic, tighten just past snug. Don't go apeshit and wrench it down. Eventually you'll strip out the plastic and the screw won't tighten.

That's pretty much it.
Just pay attention to new cars before you first run them.
Pay close attention to suspension and moving parts
Check the linkages for binding
Check the wheel nuts pretty often
don't go apeshit with the loctite or tightening bolts

You should be good to go.....
 
@OwnsDaily . I'm glad you caught it in time. My best advice is #1 go over the entire car every now and then, depending on how often and hard you run the car. I check my nitros more often than my electrics.
#2 pay more attention to your suspension, steering, and motor. Make sure your steering linkage isn't binding and the screws are just past snug. That applies to suspension parts as well. You can tighten up motor mounts fairly tight.
#3 DON'T use a shitload of loctite! A little goes a long way. And don't ever, ever, ever, use red loctite. You'll regret it. Only use blue. And only use loctite when screwing into metal parts. Loctite for plastic is pointless.
#4 When screwing into plastic, tighten just past snug. Don't go apeshit and wrench it down. Eventually you'll strip out the plastic and the screw won't tighten.

That's pretty much it.
Just pay attention to new cars before you first run them.
Pay close attention to suspension and moving parts
Check the linkages for binding
Check the wheel nuts pretty often
don't go apeshit with the loctite or tightening bolts

You should be good to go.....
I appreciate the advice and help.
 
Be careful where you get that loctite otherwise your steering will be locked up. I own 4 of the 6s trucks and I don't loctite that screw. I just check it and retighten as needed.

There are other screws that don't have loctite that will loosen as well. Like every screw that screws into plastic. You need to check them periodically.
@bicketybam most definitely. I don't even use loctite on my electrics, only on my nitros. And I use it sparingly. A little goes a long way and still gets the job done. You're right, a simple periodic check really helps in the long run
 
#4 When screwing into plastic, tighten just past snug. Don't go apeshit and wrench it down. Eventually you'll strip out the plastic and the screw won't tighten.
If this ever happens, you can insert a plug that is a smaller diameter the hole and about the same length of the hole, and then reinstall the screw. I tend to use zip ties, spray straws from aerosol cans, toothpicks, etc. When you put the screw back in it'll cut new threads.
 
If this ever happens, you can insert a plug that is a smaller diameter the hole and about the same length of the hole, and then reinstall the screw. I tend to use zip ties, spray straws from aerosol cans, toothpicks, etc. When you put the screw back in it'll cut new threads.
I use toothpicks in wood holes in the same exact way ??
 
If this ever happens, you can insert a plug that is a smaller diameter the hole and about the same length of the hole, and then reinstall the screw. I tend to use zip ties, spray straws from aerosol cans, toothpicks, etc. When you put the screw back in it'll cut new threads.
@Jeremy in WI @jondilly1974 yeah that works too! For me, if a part gets stripped, I usually just say -f it- and go buy a new one lol
 
I plan on going over the entire car. I also invested in a decent set of hex drivers, that don't have ball ends. Which may of played a crucial part in me being able to take it apart. If youd like a link I'd be more than happy to send you it. Less than 20 dollars for a set of 4.

If you happen to come across a day where you are bored and have time. Can you send me a picture of suspect screws, that you check periodically?
@OwnsDaily yeah definitely. Send the link. I'm always interested in tools.
Yeah... I'm too cheap. I do buy the replacement part but try to see how long I can make the half broke one last.
Yeah I can understand that. I have a Nitro Rustler in my inventory. One of the plastic gears chipped a tooth. I laid on that throttle to see how long the trans would last before it gave up ????
 
@OwnsDaily yeah definitely. Send the link. I'm always interested in tools.

Yeah I can understand that. I have a Nitro Rustler in my inventory. One of the plastic gears chipped a tooth. I laid on that throttle to see how long the trans would last before it gave up ????
 

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