BLX Motor

[Harriot10]

Yeah, I was wondering about potential friction. Do the shims eliminate all black plastic debris? If so, maybe the o-ring isn't necessary. The tape modification I posted is keeping out all dirt from outside. I'll probably try everything and see how it works out.

Shims on the slipper hub definitely helped with the black dust!

 

[Jason537]

Subbed

 

[parcou]

Fam...

Need help....first time doing gear mesh and I and putting some attention to the power module on BR (Granite next) and that opening at the motor to keep dirt out...

This is my first gearmesh and I did do the paper trick and it did roll out just fine....eyeing it does it look OK on the mesh

 

[jondilly1974]

Fam...

Need help....first time doing gear mesh and I and putting some attention to the power module on BR (Granite next) and that opening at the motor to keep dirt out...

This is my first gearmesh and I did do the paper trick and it did roll out just fine....eyeing it does it look OK on the mesh

View attachment 102034View attachment 102035View attachment 102036

Looks good. You want just the smallest amount of play between the spur and pinion as you can at the tightest point. Make sure to spin the spur all the way around. They usually won’t be perfectly round.

 

[GRC]

Nice, you got the Spektrum motor, D-pinion and c-hub? I kindof want to, but I have extra motors already so I can't justify the purchase when the pinion's holding up fine. Is the Spektrum motor faster? JayTee's V3 Granite went 53.4 mph. I haven't seen any V1/V2 Granites going that fast.

 

[parcou]

Looks good. You want just the smallest amount of play between the spur and pinion as you can at the tightest point. Make sure to spin the spur all the way around. They usually won’t be perfectly round.

Thank you, thank you....just hate to mess anything up but as you all told me its a hobby just enjoy, take my time, and ask questions. What I did was add an oring and a washer to the motor side where the hole was at. The motor spun freely when I put the gear back on the shaft. As well as the full assembly when it was reassembled. Few questions:

1. For whatever reason when I put them on the ground and roll by hand they both (Big Rock v3 and Granite BLX 3S v2) are quite...don't have that load gearlike noise when normally hear when rolled? Yes I did so some bearing clearing (add bearing grease) and other power/motor clean up...I don't hear that loud gear/motor sound when rolling it could that be normal for the moment?

2. Granite BLX v2 being new I like that the wholes were set so 15 was my target which meant gear mesh was preset I guess. Personally, I would like that as an option for the Big Rock v3 I will never change the gearing but for maintenance, it makes the work so much easier for me. Does the BR if you know offer that plate with the gear numbers or a name for it so I can look for it?

I am really curious why they sound so different rolling now...but I have noticed the same when I put red/tacky in the diff housing when clearing it when rolled it sounds different and quiet. I want to power them both on but I added the loctite to the set screws and other screws in their metal to metal so gotta have to wait 24hrs :-(

Nice, you got the Spektrum motor, D-pinion and c-hub? I kindof want to, but I have extra motors already so I can't justify the purchase when the pinion's holding up fine. Is the Spektrum motor faster? JayTee's V3 Granite went 53.4 mph. I haven't seen any V1/V2 Granites going that fast.

Man I am so green I don't even know....I know what you are referring to but what type of motor or mount, etc I have is over my head. For the question I just asked, I did not like the c-clamp or the free holes in the BR v3. It was easier doing the Granite v2 next it had the wholes so I knew where to put the screws in the 15 and no c-clamp.

Once I can figure out what that is....I'd like to see if the older BR was like the Granite and add that older BR plate to my new BR with the holes and numbers if possible

 

[GRC]

Ah, I see, it's a V3 Big Rock. I thought you upgraded the Granite. I also like the fixed holes in the V2 motor mount. But the D shaped hole in the pinion and that C-ring that prevents the pinion from sliding around should help avoid damage if the loc-tite on the pinion breaks loose.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Looks good. You want just the smallest amount of play between the spur and pinion as you can at the tightest point. Make sure to spin the spur all the way around. They usually won’t be perfectly round.

There should be a bit of play all arround the spur . If i make it almost tight that you can berely hear a tick my rcs just scream to hell you need a bit more play that the slightest ticking noise you can do in my experience or maybe my spurs were flukes i only expeimented with metal spurs and i know how a spur screams when its meched too tight

 

[jondilly1974]

There should be a bit of play all arround the spur . If i make it almost tight that you can berely hear a tick my rcs just scream to hell you need a bit more play that the slightest ticking noise you can do in my experience or maybe my spurs were flukes i only expeimented with metal spurs and i know how a spur screams when its meched too tight

Yes if it screams it’s too tight. You should set it the best you can with the back side of the power module off, then put the back side on and check it again to see if that makes it tighter. Sometimes that rear bearing will pull the spur closer to the pinion when assembled.

 

[crtakashi]

The o-ring mod has been an absolute winner for me. The washers I used were just two generic M5 bolt washers from a hardware store, I just measured them at 5x9x1

P.s. when you fit the o-ring, only sit the washers and pinion on the o-ring - don't press against it. If you do, you'll get friction against the motor, and it's hard to tell until you put everything back in and roll the car on it's wheels to feel the resistance. I used some green slime grease underneath the o-ring too

I've gone through two motors on my new V3 Senton already. Bearing seized on both counts. I've noticed grinding wear on the inside of the power module from the spur gear/slipper, so I reckon that's the issue and this is the solution.

Just to clarify the o-ring solution...do you sandwich the o-ring between two washers? Or does the o-ring directly contact the surface of the motor?

 

[Harriot10]

I've gone through two motors on my new V3 Senton already. Bearing seized on both counts. I've noticed grinding wear on the inside of the power module from the spur gear/slipper, so I reckon that's the issue and this is the solution.

Just to clarify the o-ring solution...do you sandwich the o-ring between two washers? Or does the o-ring directly contact the surface of the motor?

What bearings are you using? Try ceramic hybrids in the motor. Worked well for me. I had an issue with a stock bearing blowing apart, haven’t had any issues since switching to the hybrids!??

 

[crtakashi]

What bearings are you using? Try ceramic hybrids in the motor. Worked well for me. I had a issue with a stock bearing blowing apart, haven’t had any issues since switching to the hybrids!??

Stock bearings on both counts. This is my first brushless, so very new to all this. I've already got a warranty replacement on the way for the first Spektrum motor that came with the truck. That one lasted 4 packs. Replaced it immediately with a BLX 3S motor because I couldn't wait and that blew yesterday after about ten packs. Never hit temps higher than 120 on either motor. After worrying about my driving or possible ESC issues, I finally found this thread.

When I get the new motor, I think I'll def replace the bearings with ceramic ones. And I'll probs try to salvage the BLX. Pretty lame that this seems to be a required upgrade for a nearly $100 motor. But perhaps the problem lies more with the tolerances on the power module and the subsequent plastic shavings? Or do these bearings still blow up from regular old dust/dirt?

For when I try to salvage my BLX, any tips for determining if the blown bearing did any additional damage to the motor?

 

[Harriot10]

Stock bearings on both counts. This is my first brushless, so very new to all this. I've already got a warranty replacement on the way for the first Spektrum motor that came with the truck. That one lasted 4 packs. Replaced it immediately with a BLX 3S motor because I couldn't wait and that blew yesterday after about ten packs. Never hit temps higher than 120 on either motor. After worrying about my driving or possible ESC issues, I finally found this thread.

When I get the new motor, I think I'll def replace the bearings with ceramic ones. And I'll probs try to salvage the BLX. Pretty lame that this seems to be a required upgrade for a nearly $100 motor. But perhaps the problem lies more with the tolerances on the power module and the subsequent plastic shavings? Or do these bearings still blow up from regular old dust/dirt?

For when I try to salvage my BLX, any tips for determining if the blown bearing did any additional damage to the motor?

Take the motor apart, you should be able to tell if it’s garbage. You might get lucky!??This happened to me on one of my blx 2400kv motors, pinion side bearing in three pieces.

About the black/grey dust inside the power module. I also couldn’t figure out at first where it was all coming from. It’s the slipper hitting the inside. I shimmed mine to keep it off the inside and no more dust!??

 

[crtakashi]

Take the motor apart, you should be able to tell if it’s garbage. You might get lucky!??This happened to me on one of my blx 2400kv motors, pinion side bearing in three pieces.

About the black/grey dust inside the power module. I also couldn’t figure out at first where it was all coming from. It’s the slipper hitting the inside. I shimmed mine to keep it off the inside and no more dust!??
View attachment 102477View attachment 102478

Yup yup, caught that earlier in the thread. Shims ordered. Imma be shimming the spur, o-ring on the motor shaft, taping the bottom of the power module, and installing ceramic bearings. I WILL be victorious.

 

[Harriot10]

Yup yup, caught that earlier in the thread. Shims ordered. Imma be shimming the spur, o-ring on the motor shaft, taping the bottom of the power module, and installing ceramic bearings. I WILL be victorious.

Welcome to the Forum, great place to find help from experienced people. Good luck! I figured out a lot of things the hard way!? Live and learn!

 

[GRC]

Just to clarify the o-ring solution...do you sandwich the o-ring between two washers? Or does the o-ring directly contact the surface of the motor?

I used one washer like in Yas's photo. Lightly greased O-ring in contact with the motor, washer goes over it. Then rest the pinion GENTLY on the washer. When you loc-tite the pinion make sure it is not compressing the washer/O-ring. It should be barely touching otherwise pressure on the O-ring will cause resistance.

 

[Yas]

One washer. Washer is in contact with the motor, O-ring goes over it. Then rest the pinion GENTLY on the O-ring. When you loc-tite the pinion make sure it is not compressing the O-ring. It should be barely touching otherwise pressure on the O-ring will cause resistance.

I put the o-ring on first - with a metal washer against the motor you might mark up the can, whereas a silicone o-ring wouldn't. I also used two washers just to centre the pinion with the spur

And yes, don't squeeze the o-ring down with the pinion, just allow the pinion to sit on top when fitting it. It will be hard to tell if you've added resistance until you've fit everything back in and roll the car on it's wheels

 

[crtakashi]

I put the o-ring on first - with a metal washer against the motor you might mark up the can, whereas a silicone o-ring wouldn't. I also used two washers just to centre the pinion with the spur

And yes, don't squeeze the o-ring down with the pinion, just allow the pinion to sit on top when fitting it. It will be hard to tell if you've added resistance until you've fit everything back in and roll the car on it's wheels

@Yas @GRC Thanks so much!

 

[GRC]

I edited my initial post. O-ring in contact with the motor.

 

[Jay R]

Any trick to removing the bearing race from the motor shaft? View attachment 74660

I had that also. Easy way I found to remove those bearing remains. Mine would still turn on the shaft a bit but wouldn't slide off. Stick the other end of the motor shaft in a drill, grip the bearing inner with a pair of pliers and spin the drill. The bearing inner spins on the shaft and then you can ease it off while it's spinning. I suspect the friction makes the bearing inner heat and expand more than the shaft. Also, it's easier to slide something off if it's already moving.