Limitless First run after finishing

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LicketySplit said:
Setup, setup, setup. Toe and camber have to be right. Suspension has to be right. Everything has to be right. It’s a learning curve but you’ll get it. The lift test is a good indicator of what the car will do. Lift up the front with a driver or something in the middle. Both tires should come off the ground at the SAME time. If they don’t the car can be, “darty”. Get used to running without the gyro at first. Then you’ll get real feedback from the car. As far as overheating get a temp gun. That gearing isn’t meant for back to back passes. Do a pass and check the temp. You might be able to get a couple passes but check them after every pass to start with.
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What he said and more stick time.

I thought build it, send it now big deal. Yeah right. There is a ton of time just understanding how stuff works on the road versus in my feeble mind. Then car, road, environment and driver are all variables. It's going to be different for everyone so don't take any advice as an absolute solution.

Don't go crazy on the thread lock, but do use it on any metal to metal threads. Also heat any metal to metal connections if you even suspect it's going to be tight. Get a mini-torch and use it.
https://www.bernzomatic.com/Products/Hand-Torches/Trigger-Start/ST2200T
https://www.harborfreight.com/butane-micro-torch-63170.html

Also use decent tools. You really only need a few hex sizes - 2.0mm., 2.5mm are 90% of the car. You can buy a set of Wera or Bondus drivers for about $20-$30.

Your alignment from the factory is not set.
First set you ride height, front and rear. As he said make sure it lifts evenly from the center. Then set the alignment.
  • If you want to go straight max out the caster, set 0°-1° of camber and a tiny bit of toe in.
  • If you want to turn, adjust to your conditions, but you'll want more camber and less caster than straight line.
  • Think about how do you maximize your tire patch for what you want to do.
For straight line you'll want to setup your transmitter too. I turned my steering dual rate down to like 30%. It limits my steering angle and prevents large adjustments. Others have the steering delay setting, which dampens the input.

For straight line running, reduce the ESC braking, mine is at 50%. Braking produces heat. When you use the brakes the motor has to slow the car and you are dumping all the energy of the car into the motor. Which results in heat to the motor. So you heat the motor and ESC on acceleration and heat the motor on braking.

I documented a bunch of this in my build log if you want to see what I did.
 
Jerold said:
For straight line running, reduce the ESC braking, mine is at 50%. Braking produces heat. When you use the brakes the motor has to slow the car and you are dumping all the energy of the car into the motor. Which results in heat to the motor. So you heat the motor and ESC on acceleration and heat the motor on braking.
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That makes sense logically, but how on earth do you slow the car down from extreme speeds? Is your point to allow the car a longer distance to stop?
 
dure16 said:
That makes sense logically, but how on earth do you slow the car down from extreme speeds? Is your point to allow the car a longer distance to stop?
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The motor is going to have to cool down between runs anyways. I have my braking set to the highest percentage I can without having the wheels lock up.
 
dure16 said:
That makes sense logically, but how on earth do you slow the car down from extreme speeds? Is your point to allow the car a longer distance to stop?
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Oh I have to use the brakes. It's set to 50% so I can control it.

Dumping the heat back into the motor is just something not everyone thinks about.
 
LicketySplit said:
The motor is going to have to cool down between runs anyways. I have my braking set to the highest percentage I can without having the wheels lock up.
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Yeah, same basically. I just set braking to 100% in the ESC and adjust the brake rate from the transmitter and that will be anywhere between 40-100% depending on what gearing I'm running.
 
I won bid on this today for 44 bucks on eBay, this should work for speed tracking correct??
Screenshot_2023-02-08-11-48-39-329.jpg
 
Wherever it fits. People make 3D printed cases for it also. Might want to look into that. I had one go into low earth orbit during a crash and it took me about 40 min to find all 3 pieces. It still works though. Lol.
 
LicketySplit said:
Wherever it fits. People make 3D printed cases for it also. Might want to look into that. I had one go into low earth orbit during a crash and it took me about 40 min to find all 3 pieces. It still works though. Lol.
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So when I crash this thing and I'm sure I will, it's going to be a disaster isn't it
 
Jester194 said:
So when I crash this thing and I'm sure I will, it's going to be a disaster isn't it
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Depends on the crash. Full steam into a curb it’ll be epic. Running off the road into grass or having a blow over is the preferred way to crash🤣. You can get lucky. None of my crashes have been a total loss luckily. Just some broken wings, mounts, splitters, bodies, and chunked up foams. But I’ve never slammed into anything head on. I also messed up a ProModeler servo since I’m not running a saver.
 
LicketySplit said:
Depends on the crash. Full steam into a curb it’ll be epic. Running off the road into grass or having a blow over is the preferred way to crash🤣. You can get lucky. None of my crashes have been a total loss luckily. Just some broken wings, mounts, splitters, bodies, and chunked up foams. But I’ve never slammed into anything head on. I also messed up a ProModeler servo since I’m not running a saver.
Click to expand...
I guess the best thing is that I enjoy working on these more then actually using them except my vorteks that thing is a blast
 
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