Limitless Lim V2 build. It’s Lim time. Time to Lim it up. Digging the Limification sensation.

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I just fiid that too much caster also can make it a bit darty, if your steering abilty is not on point.

Never experienced that but I find it best for straight line runs and it helps return to center for the small bumps without my input. I definitely wouldn't recommend it for anything that need to turn. When speed running I also turn down my steering input way down either through D/R and/or Steering speed. I believe my Gryo is off as well, not exactly sure of the state, it's been on the shelf for a bit.

One time I had a run where I twitched and the car got pitched a bit at about 100mph. Between the aero and the caster, it straighten out and I was fine. My underwear was a code brown though.
 
Yeah straight driving is good. Keeps centered way easier. Ever notice when just hooning around, all that caster tears up the edges of the tires?
 
Yeah straight driving is good. Keeps centered way easier. Ever notice when just hooning around, all that caster tears up the edges of the tires?
Oh yeah, it's going to tear up the tires for sure.

I have to wonder about toe. On a 1:1 car the toe is like 1/8" or maybe 1/4" of toe. On a 28" tire, which is ~1°. The rear toe should be even less. But RC cars have sooo much toe it's ridiculous.

Looking at the top view of the Limitless the rear toe is 4.2°. At what point does it impede the car?

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Oh yeah, it's going to tear up the tires for sure.

I have to wonder about toe. On a 1:1 car the toe is like 1/8" or maybe 1/4" of toe. On a 28" tire, which is ~1°. The rear toe should be even less. But RC cars have sooo much toe it's ridiculous.

Looking at the top view of the Limitless the rear toe is 4.2°. At what point does it impede the car?

View attachment 343624
I’ve wondered the same. On my other road cars I have the Scorched rear pin blocks and they’re set to 1.3°, but I didn’t put them in this Lim. I have heard that 0° toe in the rear leads to high speed instability. I don’t doubt the word of an experienced speed runner (I am NOT) but I still don’t quite understand why that would be. Unless there was enough slop in the rear to actually cause a bit of toe out when compressed or flexed. That would be bad. None of my road cars, even my parking lot bashers, have any slop in the suspension though. They all have Vitavon arms and literally every suspension point has been fitted and shimmed as necessary to eliminate every bit of it.
In the 1:1 crowd, alot of the serious Porsche club racers liked 0° front toe but you couldn’t do it unless the entire front was completely bushed with spherical bearings. If you had rubber bushings anywhere they would compress under hard braking and all of a sudden you’d have 2° or more toe out entering the next corner.
My boss had a 3.2 Carrera that he totally bushed and it was the most miserable car ever to drive on the street. All those spherical bearings transmitted and literally amplified resonance, road noise, etc. You could run over a tiny pebble and know it!
 
I’ve wondered the same. On my other road cars I have the Scorched rear pin blocks and they’re set to 1.3°, but I didn’t put them in this Lim. I have heard that 0° toe in the rear leads to high speed instability. I don’t doubt the word of an experienced speed runner (I am NOT) but I still don’t quite understand why that would be. Unless there was enough slop in the rear to actually cause a bit of toe out when compressed or flexed. That would be bad. None of my road cars, even my parking lot bashers, have any slop in the suspension though. They all have Vitavon arms and literally every suspension point has been fitted and shimmed as necessary to eliminate every bit of it.
In the 1:1 crowd, alot of the serious Porsche club racers liked 0° front toe but you couldn’t do it unless the entire front was completely bushed with spherical bearings. If you had rubber bushings anywhere they would compress under hard braking and all of a sudden you’d have 2° or more toe out entering the next corner.
My boss had a 3.2 Carrera that he totally bushed and it was the most miserable car ever to drive on the street. All those spherical bearings transmitted and literally amplified resonance, road noise, etc. You could run over a tiny pebble and know it!
My friend totally bushed his late model Mustang & added a Whipple & riding in it, if you ran over a penny, you could tell what year it was. 😆
 
Rear toe-In on scale cars also has the benefit of a better Turn-In radius. Driving straight, Rr Toe-in does keep directional stability at bay as well.
Much depends on if the wheels are the Drive wheels. With 4WD driven wheels, under Thr. load, Toe has a tendency to straighten out to some degree. The dynamic force fights that Toe. So whatever slop that exists ends up altering the actual toe under heavy throttle.
 
Rear toe-In on scale cars also has the benefit of a better Turn-In radius. Driving straight, Rr Toe-in does keep directional stability at bay as well.
Much depends on if the wheels are the Drive wheels. With 4WD driven wheels, under Thr. load, Toe has a tendency to straighten out to some degree. The dynamic force fights that Toe. So whatever slop that exists ends up altering the actual toe under heavy throttle.
I thought rear toe OUT sharpens steering response?
 
I thought rear toe OUT sharpens steering response?

Front toe out gets you better turn in. Front toe in gets you better tracking. So I guess neutral toe would be a compromise.

I suspect that RCs are inherintly unstable. Because of the short wheel base and relatively small tires make it a bit reactive to scaled objects. Think about it 1/10" bump to a 1/10 RC is like 1" bump in the road. It would be like driving on gravel.

Speaking of which, I found one reference about rally car setup. Since we have a scale 1 million HP, oversteer is not an issue.

Toe adjustments on the rear tires also have an effect on car handling. Toe-in on the rear creates understeer, which can help with cars that are oversteery on exit. The tradeoff is wear and heat in the rear tires. Toe-out on the rear is generally wrong, as you’re likely to get more oversteer on exit.

b6aaa790-wrc-hybrids-.jpg

 
Front toe out gets you better turn in. Front toe in gets you better tracking. So I guess neutral toe would be a compromise.

I suspect that RCs are inherintly unstable. Because of the short wheel base and relatively small tires make it a bit reactive to scaled objects. Think about it 1/10" bump to a 1/10 RC is like 1" bump in the road. It would be like driving on gravel.

Speaking of which, I found one reference about rally car setup. Since we have a scale 1 million HP, oversteer is not an issue.

Toe adjustments on the rear tires also have an effect on car handling. Toe-in on the rear creates understeer, which can help with cars that are oversteery on exit. The tradeoff is wear and heat in the rear tires. Toe-out on the rear is generally wrong, as you’re likely to get more oversteer on exit.

b6aaa790-wrc-hybrids-.jpg
Yes, that’s what I thought as well.
 
Front toe out gets you better turn in. Front toe in gets you better tracking. So I guess neutral toe would be a compromise.

I suspect that RCs are inherintly unstable. Because of the short wheel base and relatively small tires make it a bit reactive to scaled objects. Think about it 1/10" bump to a 1/10 RC is like 1" bump in the road. It would be like driving on gravel.

Speaking of which, I found one reference about rally car setup. Since we have a scale 1 million HP, oversteer is not an issue.

Toe adjustments on the rear tires also have an effect on car handling. Toe-in on the rear creates understeer, which can help with cars that are oversteery on exit. The tradeoff is wear and heat in the rear tires. Toe-out on the rear is generally wrong, as you’re likely to get more oversteer on exit.

b6aaa790-wrc-hybrids-.jpg
Rear toe was yesterday. The jacking effect is where it's at. (y)
 
Well, we’re not quite high enough yet…
IMG_3019.jpeg

That said, I think I have the layout pretty much mapped out.
Also, a 6mm internal shock limiter in each front shock provides a “bones level” ride height with no droop screws in play at all. It’s looking like I’ll only use them to level things out perfectly when it’s set up.
IMG_3020.jpeg
 
Ok, the altitude is fine now. 😊
IMG_3036.jpeg

I can’t believe it, but the factory layout of the V2 is spot on, freaking perfect. I’m still waiting on the Scorched GT side skirts, and I thought I was going to have to mount the batteries on them but I don’t. The center of the chassis in stock configuration holds the servo, receiver box, XLX2, a TP 4070, and two battery trays! I’m pretty impressed that I didn’t need to move anything! Crazy, man.
IMG_3034.jpeg

I also really like the battery trays. I upgraded to the awesome Saga straps and put those Scorched carbon fibre battery savers with the foam on the back of them in there and they’re a perfect friction fit in the bottom of the trays.
The motor mount ain’t the greatest, and I need that other motor plate to run this motor. Or better yet, bin this mount and upgrade. I had to flip the pinion and the grub screws are at the very end of the shaft, and I hate to do that.
I need to do the whole heat shrink/wire loom thing and this will be really tidy. Groovy man. I’m going to bed, yo.
 
Ok, the altitude is fine now. 😊
View attachment 344069
I can’t believe it, but the factory layout of the V2 is spot on, freaking perfect. I’m still waiting on the Scorched GT side skirts, and I thought I was going to have to mount the batteries on them but I don’t. The center of the chassis in stock configuration holds the servo, receiver box, XLX2, a TP 4070, and two battery trays! I’m pretty impressed that I didn’t need to move anything! Crazy, man.
View attachment 344070
I also really like the battery trays. I upgraded to the awesome Saga straps and put those Scorched carbon fibre battery savers with the foam on the back of them in there and they’re a perfect friction fit in the bottom of the trays.
The motor mount ain’t the greatest, and I need that other motor plate to run this motor. Or better yet, bin this mount and upgrade. I had to flip the pinion and the grub screws are at the very end of the shaft, and I hate to do that.
I need to do the whole heat shrink/wire loom thing and this will be really tidy. Groovy man. I’m going to bed, yo.

What are the CF battery tray inserts? I haven't seen those.
 
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She’s really starting to get her sexy on now! I put on staggered Hoons, 42/100’s on the front and 53/100’s on the rear. Looks dope, I wish you could speed run with them. They’re going to look awesome with the body, and it will definitely be wearing them when on the shelf. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the white lettering off the Hoons?
I’m waiting for parts to show up before I can finish things up, but I should have everything necessary by the end of the week.
IMG_6427.jpeg
 
And
@Dan B. has ALL the money !!!!!
Not anymore…
Looks good Dan
Thanks Ron!
Maybe after I get my 3 boys new dirtbikes (2 down 1 to go ) I’ll start throwing money At FELONACTION again???
We all collectively miss Felonaction!
Kids are frikin expensive!!!!
You ain’t whistling Dixie!
And yo, after seeing a couple specific posts of yours a ways back I thought to myself…”there is no way Ron Burgundy isn’t running Aeroshell grease in his diffs!” 😂 Am I right, dude?
 
Damn dude …..
I skimmed thru this thread and noticed 2 things
@Diem Turner is still alive
I live indeed. I'm like a bad penny...I always turn up.

Short story long, I just got supremely irritated with the constant soggy rain weather last summer and took some time off and dove back into music production to keep my hands and mind busy (as it turns out, you just can't rely on that other activity to get you through entire days...I gave up when I began developing tennis elbow).
 
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