Sketer 1/10 MT from Corally

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After the construction bash and another upside down landing, I broke one of of the steering links, I bent the crap out of left rear driveshaft (they are pretty thin), and I broke the center support brackets for the body. Yeah, that damage is pretty much my fault honestly. Not too bad after that run and some big jumps off a big dirt mound at the construction site

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Video of the bash. Sketer footage starts at 2:38

 
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After the construction bash and another upside down landing, I broke one of of the steering links, I bent the crap out of left rear driveshaft (they are pretty thin), and I broke the center support brackets for the body. Yeah, that damage is pretty much my fault honestly. Not too bad after that run and some big jumps off a big dirt mound at the construction site

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Video of the bash. Sketer footage starts at 2:38

Looked like a fun time. I've broke all the same stuff. I shortened my tower right above where it snapped in your pic. Without a Wang, that rear tower does take a beating.
Mine has a max8 now and will get triples off pretty easily. I'm impressed you still have the antenna straw. 😜
 
Looked like a fun time. I've broke all the same stuff. I shortened my tower right above where it snapped in your pic. Without a Wang, that rear tower does take a beating.
Mine has a max8 now and will get triples off pretty easily. I'm impressed you still have the antenna straw. 😜
I don't feel too bad now. This time I landed upside down because one of the jumps turned into a double front flip and I wasn't expecting that. But I yeah, it was fun. Not sure why they made the driveshafts so thin. And hopefully one day someone makes a CF or 7075 rear shock tower. It's hard not to land upside down with the Sketer. Hehe.
 
I don't feel too bad now. This time I landed upside down because one of the jumps turned into a double front flip and I wasn't expecting that. But I yeah, it was fun. Not sure why they made the driveshafts so thin. And hopefully one day someone makes a CF or 7075 rear shock tower. It's hard not to land upside down with the Sketer. Hehe.
Upside down seems to be the preffered orientation for Sketer landings my friend. 🤣
I would reccomend staying stock with the rear tower, it's a sacrificial lamb and saves your rear diff housing. Only thing to keep it from happening would be a Wang. 😜
 
Upside down seems to be the preffered orientation for Sketer landings my friend. 🤣
I would reccomend staying stock with the rear tower, it's a sacrificial lamb and saves your rear diff housing. Only thing to keep it from happening would be a Wang. 😜
A Wang? Hehe.
 
So I ordered the wrong center roll cage mount. The only difference is that the side mounts were shorter and a bit different in the bottom area (not by much) . So I had to do a bit of trimming and I also had use two bolts and nuts that I had in my tool box. I also had to put an extra amount of material (foam?) on top to compensate for the shorter mounting parts that I adapted. I actually like the fact that the parts I installed are shorter, meaning they are stronger. I used a couple of zip ties in the extra foam.

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So I ordered the wrong center roll cage mount. The only difference is that the side mounts were shorter and a bit different in the bottom area (not by much) . So I had to do a bit of trimming and I also had use two bolts and nuts that I had in my tool box. I also had to put an extra amount of material (foam?) on top to compensate for the shorter mounting parts that I adapted. I actually like the fact that the parts I installed are shorter, meaning they are stronger. I used a couple of zip ties in the extra foam.

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Makin it work! I like it!!👌
 
So I ordered the wrong center roll cage mount. The only difference is that the side mounts were shorter and a bit different in the bottom area (not by much) . So I had to do a bit of trimming and I also had use two bolts and nuts that I had in my tool box. I also had to put an extra amount of material (foam?) on top to compensate for the shorter mounting parts that I adapted. I actually like the fact that the parts I installed are shorter, meaning they are stronger. I used a couple of zip ties in the extra foam.

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Looks good. Don't throw out your old one.
Here's my OE one that was "modified" during a roof landing where the body flew off. Just a Lil shorter.

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Looks good. Don't throw out your old one.
Here's my OE one that was "modified" during a roof landing where the body flew off. Just a Lil shorter.

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I've learned to not throw away old stuff, or sell new stuff, before I'm absolutely sure I don't need them anymore! I've regretted that plenty of times. This time I can throw away the original side parts because they are broken 🤣
 
I also forgot to mention that I broke a lower control arm after that construction bash. Just for comparison, my upgraded $1k Maxx V2 went through the same hard terrain punishment with me and my 6yr old son twice and it didn't break anything. So my V2 Maxx is certainly tougher (as long as I stop breaking lower bulkheads 🤣). Not bad though for the Sketer. The chassis is not an issue. Or the bulkheads so far. Just the thin driveshaft bending , rear shock tower, lower control arm, and center brace have been the breakages from bad landings. I also ordered the rear center dog bone by mistake thinking it was the rear dog bone for the driveshaft. So I bent that thing back into shape

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I had another horrible right front landing from around 25 ft. I broke both lower and upper control arms and I bent the shock shaft. I hammered the shaft back into shape. Luckily I had the lower control arm. What I didn't have was the upper control arm. But guess what? Typhon 6s upper control arms work for the top! So I installed a Typhon 6s upper control arm that I had laying around. I also lost the set screw for one of the ends of the sway bar, so I used a grub screw for the Arrma lower control arms. You gotta do what you gotta do. It's a PITA to change both upper and lower control arms. For the upper control arms, you have to remove the shock tower and the lower control arms, you have to remove the front bumper and skid plate. PITA.

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I had another horrible right front landing from around 25 ft. I broke both lower and upper control arms and I bent the shock shaft. I hammered the shaft back into shape. Luckily I had the lower control arm. What I didn't have was the upper control arm. But guess what? Typhon 6s upper control arms work for the top! So I installed a Typhon 6s upper control arm that I had laying around. I also lost the set screw for one of the ends of the sway bar, so I used a grub screw for the Arrma lower control arms. You gotta do what you gotta do. It's a PITA to change both upper and lower control arms. For the upper control arms, you have to remove the shock tower and the lower control arms, you have to remove the front bumper and skid plate. PITA.

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I've seen folks swap kronos xtr top plate and pin blocks onto the Sketer over on Corally forum. Don't have to take everything apart for repairs that way I guess. Arms are definitely weaker on TC rigs vs Arrma though. Glad you got it back together, and yeah, gotta be resourceful!!
I've also seen Arrma kraton arms on the kronos..food for thought.
 
I've seen folks swap kronos xtr top plate and pin blocks onto the Sketer over on Corally forum. Don't have to take everything apart for repairs that way I guess. Arms are definitely weaker on TC rigs vs Arrma though. Glad you got it back together, and yeah, gotta be resourceful!!
I've also seen Arrma kraton arms on the kronos..food for thought.
Yep. Here is a flowchart for everything you need, minus the body mount thing (steering deck holder). That is for the buggy body.

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Makes it lot easier to remove upper arms. Just two bolts and that's it.

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Will be posting mine for sale soon.. haha

Drove it once…

Will also be listing all my Kronos stuff…
I’ve been thinking of selling my Sketer too, it’s still awesome but it breaks too easily, I spend more time fixing it than driving it 🤣🤣🤣
 
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