Kraton So many choices..

[Tex Koder]

I tend to lean towards option #1 to start it off..
and then jump into option#4

or go kind of retarded with a Totally Custom-made parts build...







But, it's wise to NOT go

 

[KnowAir]

I tend to lean towards option #1 to start it off..
and then jump into option#4

or go kind of retarded with a Totally Custom-made parts build...







But, it's wise to NOT go
View attachment 319591

Well they sure picked the right guy to represent in that meme!!

 

[Johnny b]

Always leave yourself open for option 5 ... Sell all rc related stuff and leave the hobby forever..... Your welcome.

 

[KnowAir]

Always leave yourself open for option 5 ... Sell all rc related stuff and leave the hobby forever..... Your welcome.

Yes, sell ALL to ME! And cheaply please

 

[Moirae]

Yep, but I want to try.

It has a good chance of going well imo. I ran big blocks in my 6s rigs no problem. Matter of fact the only problem I've ever had actually just happened recently and I exploded center diff in a limitless. First time I've ever had anything happen and it's never happened on a basher. I was hooning around in the parking lot hard to make it happen.

 

[KnowAir]

It has a good chance of going well imo. I ran big blocks in my 6s rigs no problem. Matter of fact the only problem I've ever had actually just happened recently and I exploded center diff in a limitless. First time I've ever had anything happen and it's never happened on a basher. I was hooning around in the parking lot hard to make it happen.

Define big block. 49 or 56mm? I can't see a 6s diff holding up to a 56mm.

 

[SrC]

OPTION #1 always.
Front and rear Alloy braces are probably must haves if anything out the box.
Just make sure and truly go over all the diffs, check wheel alignment, Steering endpoints etc., and all the things to do BEFORE you run it. It is not an truly a RTR model.
Factory assy has little to no QC at all.
Diff oils usually very low and not shimmed too well.
What will bite you much sooner than later if not checked first.
Check other members build logs.
Many upgrades are not needed. Drive it first for a while and learn it better before sinking Much coin or Bling into it.
Replace with stocker parts as they break. You will break parts. Normal.
JennysRC.com has them for less $$$.

 

[Moirae]

Define big block. 49 or 56mm? I can't see a 6s diff holding up to a 56mm.

I had tp 5660 (5692mm) in a fireteam and my talion XL for a while. I actually never had a single problem with the diffs in either rigs with those big blocks. I did remove them because of the extra weight though. Especially with the fireteam, that thing was busting wheel bearings left and right and was heavy af. The talion handled it better but all the extra weight was not IT tbh.

Most of my on road rigs also have big blocks in them, Limitless v1 has tp 5860, v2 has castle 2028, I got a typhon gt with a tp 5650 iirc, My infraction and 2 felonies also have big blocks. I might be forgetting some too but yea, I've busted 1 rear diff pin in a limitless and exploded center diff in a limitless but thats 2 issues in over a year between multiple rigs.

 

[KnowAir]

I had tp 5660 (5692mm) in a fireteam and my talion XL for a while. I actually never had a single problem with the diffs in either rigs with those big blocks. I did remove them because of the extra weight though. Especially with the fireteam, that thing was busting wheel bearings left and right and was heavy af. The talion handled it better but all the extra weight was not IT tbh.

Most of my on road rigs also have big blocks in them, Limitless v1 has tp 5860, v2 has castle 2028, I got a typhon gt with a tp 5650 iirc, My infraction and 2 felonies also have big blocks. I might be forgetting some too but yea, I've busted 1 rear diff pin in a limitless and exploded center diff in a limitless but thats 2 issues in over a year between multiple rigs.

Well alright, can't argue with results. I stand corrected. I can imagine the weight really has an adverse effect. Carry on!

 

[Moirae]

Well alright, can't argue with results. I stand corrected. I can imagine the weight really has an adverse effect. Carry on!

I forgot to mention that I was running those big blocks on 6s 9 times out of ten and that probably had a lot to do with my diffs not getting creamed. When I blew the limitless center diff and rear diff pin I was on 8s both times haha.

 

[Xpress..]

There is only one option.

 

[sumguy75]

Here's my take:

Option 1: you already have too many sweet upgraded rigs, you'll be bored to tears with stock

Option 2: you already have rigs for sending it, no need to build it for that unless your others are lacking something you want

Option 3: my personal favorite. Every upgrade chosen with keeping it light in mind. While you are at it, why not go with some wide low profile 3.8 wheels/tires for a lower cg and less weight? Something like the Sweeps Terrain Crusher (5.5" tall) or Jetko belted King Cobra SGT (5.2" tall) would make it sit nice and low like the Talion. Keeping it stock length makes finding a body much easier than going XL. The Kraton/Talion "illegitimate child" build...

Option 4: XL is awesome, no doubt, but could still go with a lighter build. You could start with option 3 using the stock chassis to see how you like it. Could easily turn it into an XL with a chassis swap and have a very stable/high speed rig if you want to change it from stock length.

 

[RC Steve]

Option 4.
Basherqueen doesn't make gearboxes any more. She only made 200. "that's it, no more". That's pretty final, I'm assuming she lost money on them.

 

[RCbuzz]

I would just leave it stock, turn down the stock Firma 150 timing, do the pre-checks and run it!

 

[Xjeepguy]

Decision made, parts are being sourced, stay tuned for a build thread in the next few weeks…

 

[Xjeepguy]

Just spent a lot of money on parts, but I’m sure it’ll be worth it. This truck is going to be an absolute beast.