TYPHON 6S BLX V4 MAXIMUM SPEED UPGRADE HELP

[LibertyMKiii]

Be sure to have the car up on a platform like they did in that video. No telling what it will want to do when powered up. Keeping the wheels in the air is a good safety!

 

[jondilly1974]

What 3PV set are you buying? Make sure it comes with the R304SB receiver.

 

[arelee]

Be sure to have the car up on a platform like they did in that video. No telling what it will want to do when powered up. Keeping the wheels in the air is a good safety!

I installed the "Spektrum" receiver that came with the Typhon, plugged the steering, throttle and "Y" connector that runs the ESC and motor fans the way I had been told, and nothing happened. Very disappointing. What did I do wrong? Then it dawned on me, what if I turn the plugs going into the receiver up-side-down. I started with the plug for the fans. Low and behold, they came to life! Next, the throttle and steering. Bingo. Everything worked.

I unpacked the 3PV that I was ready to send back to Amazon, and installed the receiver, then plugged-in the fan wire. It worked! What a relief.

I'll finish wiring the "parallel" harness, bind the radio/receiver and go for a run in a day or so. It's about time!!!!!!!

 

[arelee]

What 3PV set are you buying? Make sure it comes with the R304SB receiver.

The receiver that came with the 3PV is the R314SB

What 3PV set are you buying? Make sure it comes with the R304SB receiver.

Hey jon,
Mine came with the R314SB (T-FHSS), (4) channel. What are your thoughts? I have an infrared thermometer to check the temperature after each run. Bye the way, what are the "safe" temperatures for the motor and ESC?

Many thank's

 

[arelee]

What 3PV set are you buying? Make sure it comes with the R304SB receiver.

Sounds like you have a solid plan in place. Yes standing in the middle of the run gives you about 1000 ft to your left and right, providing max visibility in both directions. Some guys like to stand up on a small ladder, which I may start doing also.

You can ignore the parts about calibrating the ESC in this video, but this should show you how to get the radio into link mode and connect it to the receiver.

Well Liberty, after completing all wiring, I backed the motor off, so the pinion wouldn't be in contact with the spool, then hooked-up one of the Turnigy 5.0 Graphene bricks. I brought out the transmitter to "bind" it to the receiver. It was already bound. The fans, steering and throttle all worked perfectly. I moved the motor back into position, put the car on a stand and lightly touched the throttle. This car does not know the word SLOW.

As you suggested, I'll start off with the 4S batteries, to get used to the car, and dial-in the steering and throttle. Please be brutally honest about what you think about the way I have hooked things up. None of the wires are contacting the drive shafts or gears.

Almost there buddy.

 

[jondilly1974]

The receiver that came with the 3PV is the R314SB
Hey jon,
Mine came with the R314SB (T-FHSS), (4) channel. What are your thoughts? I have an infrared thermometer to check the temperature after each run. Bye the way, what are the "safe" temperatures for the motor and ESC?

Many thank's

I think the R314SB must be a new model because mine came with the R304SB. I will have to read up on it. ??

Glad to hear it’s coming along.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Well Liberty, after completing all wiring, I backed the motor off, so the pinion wouldn't be in contact with the spool, then hooked-up one of the Turnigy 5.0 Graphene bricks. I brought out the transmitter to "bind" it to the receiver. It was already bound. The fans, steering and throttle all worked perfectly. I moved the motor back into position, put the car on a stand and lightly touched the throttle. This car does not know the word SLOW.

As you suggested, I'll start off with the 4S batteries, to get used to the car, and dial-in the steering and throttle. Please be brutally honest about what you think about the way I have hooked things up. None of the wires are contacting the drive shafts or gears.

Almost there buddy.
View attachment 63986View attachment 63987

Looks professional to me!
I do not see any issues

After the first test run be sure to check everything. Also be sure to calibrate the throttle to the ESC, if you don't it may not reach 100% throttle.

One of the big things is to get it upto about 40mph and see how the brakes feel. Then adjust in the castle link software to the desired amount. Again I like to keep drag brake on also so it will stop on its own if the radio looses connection.

Another thing to consider is some weights in the front bumper (once you are traveling over 100mph) Most guys are running them when going fast. I have not seen one specific for the MGT7 bumper but this may be adapated to fit
https://www.sagacustomrc.com/store/p38/Stampede_and_rustler_4x4_adjustable_bumper_weight.html

 

[arelee]

Looks professional to me!
I do not see any issues

After the first test run be sure to check everything. Also be sure to calibrate the throttle to the ESC, if you don't it may not reach 100% throttle.

One of the big things is to get it upto about 40mph and see how the brakes feel. Then adjust in the castle link software to the desired amount. Again I like to keep drag brake on also so it will stop on its own if the radio looses connection.

Another thing to consider is some weights in the front bumper (once you are traveling over 100mph) Most guys are running them when going fast. I have not seen one specific for the MGT7 bumper but this may be adapated to fit
https://www.sagacustomrc.com/store/p38/Stampede_and_rustler_4x4_adjustable_bumper_weight.html

Thank's for the positive evaluation.

I've added your suggestions to my "Castle Linjk" notes.

Adding weight to the front end. Makes sense. Don't want the car to flip-out like the above video you provided= the Limitless. I just purchased a sheet of 1/16" thick lead. Easy to work with.

I think the R314SB must be a new model because mine came with the R304SB. I will have to read up on it. ??

Glad to hear it’s coming along.

Thank's jon!

 

[arelee]

Looks professional to me!
I do not see any issues

After the first test run be sure to check everything. Also be sure to calibrate the throttle to the ESC, if you don't it may not reach 100% throttle.

One of the big things is to get it upto about 40mph and see how the brakes feel. Then adjust in the castle link software to the desired amount. Again I like to keep drag brake on also so it will stop on its own if the radio looses connection.

Another thing to consider is some weights in the front bumper (once you are traveling over 100mph) Most guys are running them when going fast. I have not seen one specific for the MGT7 bumper but this may be adapated to fit
https://www.sagacustomrc.com/store/p38/Stampede_and_rustler_4x4_adjustable_bumper_weight.html

This is the 2mm F40 body, minus the back spoiler. Fits like a glove.

 

[jondilly1974]

This is the 2mm F40 body, minus the back spoiler. Fits like a glove.View attachment 64306View attachment 64307

???OMG???

That is an amazing body! Is this a standard Typhon chassis? I need this body ASAP

 

[arelee]

???OMG???

That is an amazing body! Is this a standard Typhon chassis? I need this body ASAP

Hey jon,

I thought it was pretty cool. It fits perfectly, I didn't even have to cut off the rear spoiler mount on the car. I may also get the Typhon a second set of clothes= "Delta Plastik" 0116-Lancia Stratos. Speaking of bodies, I saw your post on another forum. You were discussing your 4mm "Jag" body. I have one heck of a blister on my right hand, from reaming-out the body support and antenna holes on the 2mm body. I can only imagine what your hand looked like, after boring through 4mm of lexan.

Yeah, its the stock chassis. I didn't even have to remove the rear spoiler mount. However, I did add a pair of "EMP" battery trays, for running (2) batteries in parallel. You can see them in the photos above on this page.

 

[jondilly1974]

Hey jon,

I thought it was pretty cool. It fits perfectly, I didn't even have to cut off the rear spoiler mount on the car. I may also get the Typhon a second set of clothes= "Delta Plastik" 0116-Lancia Stratos. Speaking of bodies, I saw your post on another forum. You were discussing your 4mm "Jag" body. I have one heck of a blister on my right hand, from reaming-out the body support and antenna holes on the 2mm body. I can only imagine what your hand looked like, after boring through 4mm of lexan.

Yeah, its the stock chassis. I didn't even have to remove the rear spoiler mount. However, I did add a pair of "EMP" battery trays, for running (2) batteries in parallel. You can see them in the photos above on this page.

Yes cutting this 4mm is only something I would suggest for people I dislike.

 

[Notorious J]

This is the 2mm F40 body, minus the back spoiler. Fits like a glove.View attachment 64306View attachment 64307

This build is coming along so well. Once painted, it's going to look absolutely amazing. All the time and effort you've put in, plus all the amazing advice from @LibertyMKiii, @jondilly1974 and others, has been so enjoyable to watch. I have one question though. Now that it's this close to completion, are you still planning on adding the rocket once it's done? It's such a well done speed build and my thoughts tell me that the rocket would end up as a one and done scenario. Whatever you do, it's been a pleasure following along to this point.

 

[arelee]

This build is coming along so well. Once painted, it's going to look absolutely amazing. All the time and effort you've put in, plus all the amazing advice from @LibertyMKiii, @jondilly1974 and others, has been so enjoyable to watch. I have one question though. Now that it's this close to completion, are you still planning on adding the rocket once it's done? It's such a well done speed build and my thoughts tell me that the rocket would end up as a one and done scenario. Whatever you do, it's been a pleasure following along to this point.

Hi Notorious J,

Thank's for the compliments. Although I haven't run the car yet, the build has been quite an addictive experience.

You're so right, If it hadn't been for the help and patience of Liberty, jon, and others, this project would not have been possible.

It has been a total BLAST! Still is.

About the rocket. A few days ago, it dawned on me, there is, (at least as far as I know), no way that a rocket would be able to increase the speed of the car, once it has reached its maximum speed. Here's why.

I'm running a spool, and have 1,000,000CST fluid in both front and rear diffs., basically locking them. Once the car has reached its peak speed, and I let my finger off of the throttle and let the rocket take over, what's going to happen? The spool and diffs. will not be "freewheeling". They will pretty much lock-up, (at least that's what I think), and the rocket would do absolutely nothing, except make a lotta smoke. It would have been cool, but it just won't work.If you read the introduction to this thread, I have just erased any mention of adding a rocket.

Once this build has "run its race" I will be starting a thread about a new project. It's already in the making. I've had some conversations with Liberty, about the build, and look forward to getting into it.

What are you working on?

 

[jondilly1974]

Hi Notorious J,

Thank's for the compliments. Although I haven't run the car yet, the build has been quite an addictive experience.

You're so right, If it hadn't been for the help and patience of Liberty, jon, and others, this project would not have been possible.

It has been a total BLAST! Still is.

About the rocket. A few days ago, it dawned on me, there is, (at least as far as I know), no way that a rocket would be able to increase the speed of the car, once it has reached its maximum speed. Here's why.

I'm running a spool, and have 1,000,000CST fluid in both front and rear diffs., basically locking them. Once the car has reached its peak speed, and I let my finger off of the throttle and let the rocket take over, what's going to happen? The spool and diffs. will not be "freewheeling". They will pretty much lock-up, (at least that's what I think), and the rocket would do absolutely nothing, except make a lotta smoke. It would have been cool, but it just won't work.If you read the introduction to this thread, I have just erased any mention of adding a rocket.

Once this build has "run its race" I will be starting a thread about a new project. It's already in the making. I've had some conversations with Liberty, about the build, and look forward to getting into it.

What are you working on?

I don’t think the diffs will lock up the driveshafts like you imagine. Unless you have the brakes or drag brake on, it will free roll. I wouldn’t take my finger off the throttle anyways. The risk you run is over revving the motor.

 

[arelee]

I don’t think the diffs will lock up the driveshafts like you imagine. Unless you have the brakes or drag brake on, it will free roll. I wouldn’t take my finger off the throttle anyways. The risk you run is over revving the motor.

Hey there jon,

I will have the drag bake on. However, (please correct me if I am wrong), even if I didn't, the car still won't be "freewheeling". Like pushing a skateboard= only wheels on an axles, married to the board with a set of bearings, no drag from gears turning in (2) gearboxes and a center spool. I didn't take that into account in the beginning of this thread. Basically, for the rocket to be of any use, once the car reached it's maximum speed,(on its own power), all gears would have to COMPLETELY disengage. Like the skateboard going over 100mph. Again, please correct me if I am wrong.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Hey there jon,

I will have the drag bake on. However, (please correct me if I am wrong), even if I didn't, the car still won't be "freewheeling". Like pushing skateboard= only wheels on an axles, married to the board with a set of bearings, no drag from gears turning in (2) gearboxes and a center spool. I didn't take that into account in the beginning of this thread. Basically, for the rocket to be of any use, once the car reached it's maximum speed,(on its own power), all gears would have to COMPLETELY disengage. Like the skateboard going over 100mph. Again, please correct me if I am wrong.

As Jon mentioned for it to work correctly you would need to stay on the throttle when you engage the rocket. This likely means you will need a friend there to man the second remote... unless you came up with a foot pedal or something to engage the rocket ignition.

Letting off the throttle wouldn't cause any major issues, but the drag of the motor would slow down the car. You want to have a speed that is known to be the max that car can do with its setup and then see the rocket motor push that further/faster.

 

[jondilly1974]

Hey there jon,

I will have the drag bake on. However, (please correct me if I am wrong), even if I didn't, the car still won't be "freewheeling". Like pushing skateboard= only wheels on an axles, married to the board with a set of bearings, no drag from gears turning in (2) gearboxes and a center spool. I didn't take that into account in the beginning of this thread. Basically, for the rocket to be of any use, once the car reached it's maximum speed,(on its own power), all gears would have to COMPLETELY disengage. Like the skateboard going over 100mph. Again, please correct me if I am wrong.

Yes a drag brake would work against you here, so you would have to stay on throttle. I don’t know why you wouldn’t want to have both power plants at play if you want max speed? If you wanted a rolling start from a freewheeled chassis, you could do a tow ahead of another vehicle but that sounds way too complicated. Maybe a slingshot start? Linear rail push?

 

[arelee]

As Jon mentioned for it to work correctly you would need to stay on the throttle when you engage the rocket. This likely means you will need a friend there to man the second remote... unless you came up with a foot pedal or something to engage the rocket ignition.

Letting off the throttle wouldn't cause any major issues, but the drag of the motor would slow down the car. You want to have a speed that is known to be the max that car can do with its setup and then see the rocket motor push that further/faster.

Thank's for the additional information. I had planned in using one of my "open channels on the 3PV to attach the rocket ignition switc,. as is shown in the youtube video= Tips Bench-Durafly Me-163 Rocket System Set-up. However, If I do decide to use a rocket, it will be on my next build project.

 

[arelee]

Yes cutting this 4mm is only something I would suggest for people I dislike.

Hey jon,

I thought it was pretty cool. It fits perfectly, I didn't even have to cut off the rear spoiler mount on the car. I may also get the Typhon a second set of clothes= "Delta Plastik" 0116-Lancia Stratos. Speaking of bodies, I saw your post on another forum. You were discussing your 4mm "Jag" body. I have one heck of a blister on my right hand, from reaming-out the body support and antenna holes on the 2mm body. I can only imagine what your hand looked like, after boring through 4mm of lexan.

Yeah, its the stock chassis. I didn't even have to remove the rear spoiler mount. However, I did add a pair of "EMP" battery trays, for running (2) batteries in parallel. You can see them in the photos above on this page.

hey jon.

You said that you wanted an 0100-F40 body (2mm). I just finished trimming and prepping mine for paint. When I got to the spoiler, I noticed something: First of all, it is not 2mm thick, like the body. It's maybe 1mm thick. Also, if you plan on using the body on speed runs, you might want to remove the spoiler. It's design looks aerodynamic, but it is actually hollow, no bottom side, (The photos on the Delta Plastik website don't really show this). I believe that it will trap air inside and slow the car down, or maybe even rip it off of the body.

I'm still glad that I bought one. It really is a cool body, spoiler and all. I'm just using mine for a fun project, and a great way to present the car when I sell it.