TYPHON 6S BLX V4 MAXIMUM SPEED UPGRADE HELP

[arelee]

Turnigy Panther Graphene

Thank's jon. I'll check into it.

 

[arelee]

Sounds perfect to me.

Agreed!
Not cheap or light weight but they output more than any other LiPo on the market. I run the Panther 5000 mAh.

Sounds perfect to me.

Agreed!
Not cheap or light weight but they output more than any other LiPo on the market. I run the Panther 5000 mAh.

Why did you choose the 5000mAh over the 6000mAh?

I've looked all over for the dimensions. Very different results. The 6000mAh appears to be 8.3"X 4.8"X 2.9". No way that will fit, unless I run the car without wheels and tires, and stick a "WIDE LOAD" sign on the rear! What are the dimensions of your battery?

 

[arelee]

I have an idea that seems like it would work well.

As you suggested, turn the cap. pack around so the wires are facing the front end of the ESC. But instead of splicing into the wires, simply cut-back enough of the heat-shrink tubing on the front of the ESC, to expose where the positive and negative wires are connected to the ESC, and solder the cap. pack wires directly to the ESC at that point. Can't get any closer than that. To position the cap. pack so the wires are facing up, (parallel to the top of the ESC), it will need to be turned up-side-down.

Sound like a plan?

Can the wires from a 6S "RIPPER KILLER" cap. pack be soldered directly to the points where the Battery positive and negative wires are soldered onto an XL-X ESC?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Why did you choose the 5000mAh over the 6000mAh?

I've looked all over for the dimensions. Very different results. The 6000mAh appears to be 8.3"X 4.8"X 2.9". No way that will fit, unless I run the car without wheels and tires, and stick a "WIDE LOAD" sign on the rear! What are the dimensions of your battery?

Mostly for use in the Kraton 6s when I got my first Arrma.

Can the wires from a 6S "RIPPER KILLER" cap. pack be soldered directly to the points where the Battery positive and negative wires are soldered onto an XL-X ESC?

Yes but I have found those solder points to be a little harder to melt. Castle must use a different mix in their solder.

 

[arelee]

Thank's Liberty.

I'll go with a pair of Turnigy Graphene Panther 5,000mAh battery packs for the Typhon, and eventually the Limitless.

I'm using an X-Tronic #3020-XTS-ST 75 Watt adjustable soldering station, and 60/40 rosin core solder. Hopefully this will help with the issue that you mentioned, regarding soldering my cap. pack directly to the XL-X ESC.

Since I switched the shocks and towers with those for the Limitless, I noticed, (by comparing my Typhon set-up with that of my Limitless), that there were some differences, so I made adjustments to the Typhon, to match the limitless=

1) On the front suspension, "toe" adjustment bars, I moved their location to the FRONT hole on the plate behind the differential.
2) All (3) of the plastic spacers on the upper suspension arm have been to the back. None in front.
3) Replaced both the front and rear body mount units with ones for the Limitless, (much more height options, especially in front).

If any of the above changes to the Typhon are incorrect, please let me know.

Bye the way, those longer droop screws that you suggested, are great. Easy to access.

How is the UNLIMITED coming along?!

Thank's again.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Thank's Liberty.

I'll go with a pair of Turnigy Graphene Panther 5,000mAh battery packs for the Typhon, and eventually the Limitless.

I'm using an X-Tronic #3020-XTS-ST 75 Watt adjustable soldering station, and 60/40 rosin core solder. Hopefully this will help with the issue that you mentioned, regarding soldering my cap. pack directly to the XL-X ESC.

Since I switched the shocks and towers with those for the Limitless, I noticed, (by comparing my Typhon set-up with that of my Limitless), that there were some differences, so I made adjustments to the Typhon, to match the limitless=

1) On the front suspension, "toe" adjustment bars, I moved their location to the FRONT hole on the plate behind the differential.
2) All (3) of the plastic spacers on the upper suspension arm have been to the back. None in front.
3) Replaced both the front and rear body mount units with ones for the Limitless, (much more height options, especially in front).

If any of the above changes to the Typhon are incorrect, please let me know.

Bye the way, those longer droop screws that you suggested, are great. Easy to access.

How is the UNLIMITED coming along?!

Thank's again.

Sounds good so far.
The Unlimited is looking pretty good, I am posting an update on that thread today.

 

[arelee]

Well, the body components are pretty much dialed in, except for wheel alignment. I'll wait until you post your video on the subject. I'm still on the fence regarding the addition of the "Mugen" front bumper, (You posted a video about it, earlier in this thread)

. It seems that its primary function is lowering the height of the body mounts. My "Limitless" shocks and towers have taken care of that.

Still waiting for the last of the electrical parts to arrive. I think that I'll stay away from soldering the cap. pack directly to the ESC. Something might go wrong.

As requested, I sent photos and dimensions of the Typhon to "Delta Plastic", so they can make suggestions for this "rocket boosted" car. I'm looking forward to seeing what they suggest.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Looking great!
Can't wait to see the body on it and see some test runs!

 

[arelee]

Looking great!
Can't wait to see the body on it and see some test runs!

Thank's Liberty,

I have an email from "Delta Plastik" that I haven't opened yet. I'll be picking a body today.

When I was building RC cars= Tamiya and RC-10s, back in the early 80s, for myself and customers at the local hobby shop, (I lived near Charlottesville at the time), one of my favorite parts of the builds was custom painting, (no air-brushing) both the car and body. I'm gonna have fun with this one!!!!!

Have a great day buddy.

 

[arelee]

Maybe my typhon GT8LE build will have some ideas that may help. It is not built for all out max speed, but you will get the idea
Hey joostin420,

I'm still loving your car. I'm getting along in my build, (there are photos on page 6 or 7 on this thread). I will be using a "Delta Plastik",
0100-F40 2mm body. I have a few questions:
1) Is that a Mugen front bumper and rear body mount. If so, why did you choose to include them?
2) What servo and servo mount did you go with? Were any alterations necessary to install them, and is it simply plug-and play, or did it require tuning?
3) How and where did you connect your cap. pack? Did you solder the leads directly onto the XL-X ESC?

I see that you got rid of the receiver box. I like that.

Looking forward to your next build.

Thanks, and have a great day!
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/anyone-running-tp-4050cm-3200kv-on-6s.10069/

View attachment 58926

 

[joostin420]

Thanx ?

1. yes, mugen mgt7 front/rear bumper body mounts. it fit my application and worked out very well. Part number: MUGE2414

2. Servo is a jx CLS-HV7346MG 46kg and hot racing servo mount; deanodized of course like all of the other aluminum items ??

3. The cap pack leads are soldered as close to the esc caps as I feel comfortable with. I do incorporate an xt90 connector for quick and easy disconnection on all installations.

not so much getting rid of the receiver box, but it just was not part of my design when fabricating the cf chassis.

 

[arelee]

Thank's for the information. I'll get the servo and mount. I've ordered the Mugen front bumper kit and rear body mount. I hope the bumper will fit my body.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

In case you are not subscribed to my YT Channel I posted a wheel alignment video a few days ago.

 

[arelee]

Thanx ?

1. yes, mugen mgt7 front/rear bumper body mounts. it fit my application and worked out very well. Part number: MUGE2414

2. Servo is a jx CLS-HV7346MG 46kg and hot racing servo mount; deanodized of course like all of the other aluminum items ??

3. The cap pack leads are soldered as close to the esc caps as I feel comfortable with. I do incorporate an xt90 connector for quick and easy disconnection on all installations.

not so much getting rid of the receiver box, but it just was not part of my design when fabricating the cf chassis.

One last question. The information on the servo states that it is programmable. Will it work properly right out of the box? I don't know how to program a servo.

 

[arelee]

In case you are not subscribed to my YT Channel I posted a wheel alignment video a few days ago.

Hey Liberty,

I don't have a youtube subscription, or twitter or facebook. I'm not into "social media".

Thank's for including the RC speed run wheel alignment video!

Great new avatar photo. When do you think it will take it's maiden voyage?

Bye the way, when the Typhon project is complete, I'm thinking of taking my Limitless and converting it into a speed car that will mimic the full size "belly tankers".

Thank's again buddy, for everything!

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Hey Liberty,

I don't have a youtube subscription, or twitter or facebook. I'm not into "social media".

No worries, I don't do any social media and really try to limit my time on YouTube. There are some good resources on YouTube and much of my knowledge has been gathered observing what people are doing who go over 150mph. I take notes and try to catch the little details that they didn't want you to notice

Thank's for including the RC speed run wheel alignment video!

No prob, I hope it helps. It was a high level description without a demonstration, but should be enough to get you going.

Great new avatar photo. When do you think it will take it's maiden voyage?

I will probably do some low speed test runs, but the car is going to be sold so I don't want to damage anything. My Typhon/Senton will be the continued project that actually goes fast. I don't have the funds or energy to re-create the expensive parts of that Unlimited build (chassis and body). I know that is disappointing, but the good thing is the Streamliner body was the key takeaway from that project and I'll retain that on the Typhon. My Typhon will eventually look very much like yours inside with the XLX and dual battery trays holding 5000 mAh Panther 6s packs.

Bye the way, when the Typhon project is complete, I'm thinking of taking my Limitless and converting it into a speed car that will mimic the full size "belly tankers".

Thank's again buddy, for everything!

A belly tanker should be interesting! Let me know if I can help, I enjoy the creative process and CAD drawing when I can find the time. I think learning CAD and 3d Printing would be very useful for a creative thinker who likes custom projects like yourself. I plan on getting a 3d printer with the funds from selling my Unlimited project!

 

[arelee]

No worries, I don't do any social media and really try to limit my time on YouTube. There are some good resources on YouTube and much of my knowledge has been gathered observing what people are doing who go over 150mph. I take notes and try to catch the little details that they didn't want you to notice



No prob, I hope it helps. It was a high level description without a demonstration, but should be enough to get you going.



I will probably do some low speed test runs, but the car is going to be sold so I don't want to damage anything. My Typhon/Senton will be the continued project that actually goes fast. I don't have the funds or energy to re-create the expensive parts of that Unlimited build (chassis and body). I know that is disappointing, but the good thing is the Streamliner body was the key takeaway from that project and I'll retain that on the Typhon. My Typhon will eventually look very much like yours inside with the XLX and dual battery trays holding 5000 mAh Panther 6s packs.



A belly tanker should be interesting! Let me know if I can help, I enjoy the creative process and CAD drawing when I can find the time. I think learning CAD and 3d Printing would be very useful for a creative thinker who likes custom projects like yourself. I plan on getting a 3d printer with the funds from selling my Unlimited project!

Although I don't subscribe to youtube, I do watch a LOT of videos on the site.

Please keep me up-to date, ( or the project thread), on the Typhon/Senton project.

I did pick-up (2) 5000mAh Panther 6S packs.

If you get the battery trays that I have, you'll need some cardboard. The screws protrude out of the bottom, (unless you do some of your building magic).

No worries, I don't do any social media and really try to limit my time on YouTube. There are some good resources on YouTube and much of my knowledge has been gathered observing what people are doing who go over 150mph. I take notes and try to catch the little details that they didn't want you to notice



No prob, I hope it helps. It was a high level description without a demonstration, but should be enough to get you going.



I will probably do some low speed test runs, but the car is going to be sold so I don't want to damage anything. My Typhon/Senton will be the continued project that actually goes fast. I don't have the funds or energy to re-create the expensive parts of that Unlimited build (chassis and body). I know that is disappointing, but the good thing is the Streamliner body was the key takeaway from that project and I'll retain that on the Typhon. My Typhon will eventually look very much like yours inside with the XLX and dual battery trays holding 5000 mAh Panther 6s packs.



A belly tanker should be interesting! Let me know if I can help, I enjoy the creative process and CAD drawing when I can find the time. I think learning CAD and 3d Printing would be very useful for a creative thinker who likes custom projects like yourself. I plan on getting a 3d printer with the funds from selling my Unlimited project!

Whip me, beat me, write me bad checks, but the truth is the "build" is even more enjoyable to me than the "run".

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Although I don't subscribe to youtube, I do watch a LOT of videos on the site.

Please keep me up-to date, ( or the project thread), on the Typhon/Senton project.

I did pick-up (2) 5000mAh Panther 6S packs.

If you get the battery trays that I have, you'll need some cardboard. The screws protrude out of the bottom, (unless you do some of your building magic).

Whip me, beat me, write me bad checks, but the truth is the "build" is even more enjoyable to me than the "run".

Thanks for the pointer on the trays I'll be watching for that.
I couldn't agree more. I enjoy the planning, research, and build more than anything. Often the results are less exciting than I build it up to be in my mind. Any time I go out and set a new personal best speed it is an extreme rush, but if I don't it is always very disappointing for me.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Now that you are getting closer to testing the car, be sure to test out the radio range on the car in that area with the car on the ground before running. I have had odd radio issues in certain locations where it will only go 200 ft due to interference. Then other areas where I would expect bad radio interference I can go 1200 ft beyond what I can see well.

I also learned that some of the higher end Futaba's with the FASST protocol have better range. Hopefully the 3PV serves you well. It has worked well for me so far, but I am also not going 150mph yet. Many guys run signal boosters that increase the wattage of the radio signal output. I can guide you on that if you get to that point.

Just be sure to have the receiver antenna extended vertically straight up and down the best you can and as high as it will go.

 

[joostin420]

One last question. The information on the servo states that it is programmable. Will it work properly right out of the box? I don't know how to program a servo.

Plug and play.