What did you break today?

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fearless blasting. Wonder if that new servo saver from Hot Racing is worth trying....
Got one coming in the mail today, so will see how it does. Just the post with the locking nut on it, not the entire alloy servo saver.

When I finally replaced my front shock tower it had a slight bow to it, I only replaced it as I wanted it to match the rear.
I have to replace my front diff case, ripped screws out of the bottom this weekend, so I may put my titanium one on there so it matches the rear when I reassemble.

Ripped screws out of the front diff housing from the bottom. Ripped the stock bumper piece that holds the hinge pins apart. Pulled my pivot balls through the front carriers a few times, not sure if they are cracked now or what, so ordered a new set of carriers as well.
 
Broke the front A-arm on my 6S Typhon yesterday. Was bashing all day and broke at the end of the day so I had a blast. Just wondering if I should replace with the RPM's or stock a-arms??? My first part replacement on this Typhon... been lucky...
 

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Broke the front A-arm on my 6S Typhon yesterday. Was bashing all day and broke at the end of the day so I had a blast. Just wondering if I should replace with the RPM's or stock a-arms??? My first part replacement on this Typhon... been lucky...
Rpm does not make a arms for the 6s Typhon or Senton.
 
I'd replace with whatever costs less though I think RPM has lifetime warranty?
Not really. It's hard to claim. You have to prove the part broke because of a manufacturer defect. Good luck with that.
 
I feel its not worth sharing my breakages after seeing some of the catastrophic damage shown in @Notorious J photos above but today I snapped both rear lower suspension mount screws and bent the front ones. Was testing my new ramp and teaching myself how to back flip. After a few nose dives and tail end landings, the screws said goodbye. No roof landings though (y). My son did well with his Senton Mega, no damage. That thing jumps really well.
So after a more thorough post run inspection also found that both rear lower shock rod ends are elongated, the LHR wheel hex pin broken and the rear shock tower slightly bent. Not to worry, all fairly cheap to repair and I don't mine working on it. Glad I gave it a good look over though, before I lost a wheel.

Is it normal to break hex pins as I've broken both rears now (Kraton 6s)? I have been replacing them with 2.5mm drill bit shanks which have not broken yet.
 
So after a more thorough post run inspection also found that both rear lower shock rod ends are elongated, the LHR wheel hex pin broken and the rear shock tower slightly bent. Not to worry, all fairly cheap to repair and I don't mine working on it. Glad I gave it a good look over though, before I lost a wheel.

Is it normal to break hex pins as I've broken both rears now (Kraton 6s)? I have been replacing them with 2.5mm drill bit shanks which have not broken yet.
The hex pin thing doesn't sound overly normal. I have the original ones in my outcast and it's over a year old. I think the wheel hub bearings are original as well. I got a fast eddy bearing kit for my outcast, but only used it for most of the other bearings as they failed, so I've never had my hubs off. The bearings are on their last legs, but I'm replacing the hubs this week as they are getting wallowed out/stretched pillow ball holes, so I have to take them apart. Seems like a good time to mess with the bearings. Kind of makes me wonder if my pins are cracked and just staying in the hubs because I haven't taken them off.
 
Kind of makes me wonder if my pins are cracked and just staying in the hubs because I haven't taken them off.
Yes I didn't know my pin was broken until I took the wheel off and saw 1 half of the pin was loose and started to fall out. Worth a look.
With the shock rod ends should upgrade or stick with the original ends to keep a weak link?
 
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After fixing my BRCC I took it to my steel ramp for some testing. Landed a nice big triple and it shut down. Pulled the body and saw that one of the battery straps broke, dislodging to battery. The XT90 had almost pulled free but not before it ripped the negative battery lead out ?

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After fixing my BRCC I took it to my steel ramp for some testing. Landed a nice big triple and it shut down. Pulled the body and saw that one of the battery straps broke, dislodging to battery. The XT90 had almost pulled free but not before it ripped the negative battery lead out ?

View attachment 49164
It's still fixable, the hardest part is going to be separating the hard case. @olds97_lss has a thread somewhere about fixing lipos.
 
It's still fixable, the hardest part is going to be separating the hard case. @olds97_lss has a thread somewhere about fixing lipos.
I ain't fixing sh!t. This is a job for Tyler at Danbury Hobby Center!
 
I ain't fixing sh!t. This is a job for Tyler at Danbury Hobby Center!
I've fixed a couple of softcasse batteries before but never hard case.
 
Full battery pack.... First jump..

AD6B5105-D0C4-4C2A-BE0A-BDC1F645B162.jpeg


Whats the best aftermarket replacement for this on the Kraton V4 4mm shock rod?..

Ive seen Tekno meantioned.. has anyone got the part number?
 
Full battery pack.... First jump..

View attachment 49457

Whats the best aftermarket replacement for this on the Kraton V4 4mm shock rod?..

Ive seen Tekno meantioned.. has anyone got the part number?
You'll need the rod ends,
TKR6140C
And, the balls to go with it.
TKR5049A
 
Full battery pack.... First jump..

View attachment 49457

Whats the best aftermarket replacement for this on the Kraton V4 4mm shock rod?..

Ive seen Tekno meantioned.. has anyone got the part number?
Look up the Arrma Nero ends. I've been using those and they hold up well. The pack only comes with two of the larger ones, but there pretty inexpensive. I tried the Tekno as well, and they don't fair much better than the Nero ones. They all break eventually I'd you bash like you're supposed to?
 
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