Kraton 2050kv firma motor

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Surchaufeur

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I want to get rid of the blx 2050kv motor and remplace it with a firma motor. The cogging is making me sick. Already remplaced the esc thats not the issue. Maybe it needs a cap pack? I have been looking at the 1900kv firma motor but its looks the size of the 2400kv arrma motor when i look at the pictures they say its 6s capable. Anyone running that motor?
 
Hey i totally understand bud. So cogging at low speed or through the entire throttle range?
At take off it just shakes and fails to wheelie. Its really violent i think thats what destroyed my sun gear in the rear diff. Im not over geared im at 14t heatsink + 2 fans on the motor. Its really weird at first the car takes off the nose lifts up but then it stops and restarts Its like if the esc loses sync with the motor. I recalibrated my dumborc end points i tested it on my garage 0 cogging on punch 9 but its a slipery surface my garage. Going to test it tomorrow if its not raining. I changed the esc already its not the esc
 
At take off it just shakes and fails to wheelie. Its really violent i think thats what destroyed my sun gear in the rear diff. Im not over geared im at 14t heatsink + 2 fans on the motor. Its really weird at first the car takes off the nose lifts up but then it stops and restarts Its like if the esc loses sync with the motor. I recalibrated my dumborc end points i tested it on my garage 0 cogging on punch 9 but its a slipery surface my garage. Going to test it tomorrow if its not raining. I changed the esc already its not the esc
Ok so I read your other thread. I say motor all day. Due to that bad connection. Voltage imbalance is a motor killer. It causes poor motor performance and increased winding heat, which leads to premature failure. That melted wire/ heatsrink at the connector was due to a bad connection or solder joint.
 
Ok so I read your other thread. I say motor all day. Due to that bad connection. Voltage imbalance is a motor killer. It causes poor motor performance and increased winding heat, which leads to premature failure. That melted wire/ heatsrink at the connector was due to a bad connection or solder joint.
No all connection are all good i even changed the bullets and xt90 connectors
Motor doesn't stink either
 
At take off it just shakes and fails to wheelie. Its really violent i think thats what destroyed my sun gear in the rear diff. Im not over geared im at 14t heatsink + 2 fans on the motor. Its really weird at first the car takes off the nose lifts up but then it stops and restarts Its like if the esc loses sync with the motor. I recalibrated my dumborc end points i tested it on my garage 0 cogging on punch 9 but its a slipery surface my garage. Going to test it tomorrow if its not raining. I changed the esc already its not the esc

BRUH... Send me the truck and I'll fix it for free. I'll send you the bill for any parts you need including shipping back to you.
 
Hey look I mess up too. It happens... Amazon just dropped off my xt90 connectors and a soldering iron.

20201011_083448.jpg
 
Then why did you start that thread with a picture saying the wire was melting? It does not take but one bad time to ruin a motor. Theres no redoing the connections.
there was a little hole on one heatshink thats it. I tortured my kraton 4s motor when it has a terrible connector on it would randomly quit working until i unplugged and plug back the orange bullet. I soldered a new one and it works?‍♀️ fine
BRUH... Send me the truck and I'll fix it for free. I'll send you the bill for any parts you need including shipping back to you.
Oof its going to cost 100$?
 
Okay guys on a serious note. Do you have a voltage meter? I ask because you can ohm out the motor winding and see if they are even. They should be even. When I get back home I will ohm out my motor that I know has a bit of a cogging issue but not nearly as bad as yours only at slow take off. Does anybody have a voltmeter that they can use to check the ohm reading on the windings of the motor? We can use this to help others in the future when diagnosing motor issues. Keeps things short simple straight to the point.
 
Okay guys on a serious note. Do you have a voltage meter? I ask because you can ohm out the motor winding and see if they are even. They should be even. When I get back home I will ohm out my motor that I know has a bit of a cogging issue but not nearly as bad as yours only at slow take off. Does anybody have a voltmeter that they can use to check the ohm reading on the windings of the motor? We can use this to help others in the future when diagnosing motor issues. Keeps things short simple straight to the point.
Maybe my hobby shop but i need to give it a last try before i wave the white flag
 
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