Arrma lock-tight is out of control!

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Bro I can clearly see the slot you had to cut in the screw from the motor mount.
I think everyone has had to slot those crappy screws at some point to get them out, and just use deeper purchase Socket heads. Whether out the box or well after. Washers help keep them tight. I just replace them up front right away now, when new.
With washers, TL can technically be optional. But I still use a slight drop of Blue on them however. For some moral support.
:LOL:
 
I think everyone has had to slot those crappy screws at some point to get them out at some point and just use deeper purchase Socket heads. Washers help keep them tight. :LOL:
I have never had problems with the motor mount screws but I haven't boght a RTR car with the 6S or 8S motor mount. They must really crank them down when there is a motor installed.


Thank you all for your ideas!
I am going to try hitting out some pins this week.
I am going to try a couple of things I saw here next time I get a Limitless and I will post my resalts here.
 
My argument is why would the Arrma factory even use Red TL on the motor mount with the Limitless at all. It's is a dam Roller. With no motor. What are they thinking. We have to install the motor. Why even lock that poop down only to remove it anyway out the box.?
 
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My argument is why would the Arrma factory even use Red TL on the motor mount with the Limitless at all. It is a dam Roller. With no motor. What are they thinking. We have to install the motor. Why even lock that poop down?
All the ones I have had and tryed the motor mount screw I have had no problems with the screws that are on the mount slider I have only had problems with the screw on the bottom, but this is the 1st time out of 6 cars that I have had one get stuck, but I normally had to go out the garage to get the power drill.
 
I torch them for removal before even attempting wrenching on them. Usually with no issues. But keep using those button head screws... and I guaranty you, it will eventually always be a fail. And bite you.
 
I torch them for removal before even attempting wrenching on them. Usually with no issues. But keep using those button head screws... and I guaranty you, it will eventually always be a fail. And bite you.
Yup, after a couple gear changes or disassembly..done. SHCS for the win, grind the diff plate if needed for small pinions. Was disappointed to see the button heads on the K8S too. Took care of those straight away. I see on the 8s rigs Arrma is using 5mm flat head screws with over sized hexes through the chassis for gearboxes, motor mount..ect. What I don't like is, a standard 5mm flat head screw uses a 3mm hex wrench, this means there's less material in the Arrma 5mm flathead screws for holding power. Will it matter? IDK, but since I get hardware for free, I have replaced all with 12.9 screws. Also, I noticed Arrma is using ungraded screws on the gearbox covers of the 8s rigs, elsewhere too..cheaping out. Can tell by the shiny coating which ones are the cheaper ungraded screws.
 
I have never had problems with the motor mount screws but I haven't boght a RTR car with the 6S or 8S motor mount. They must really crank them down when there is a motor installed.


Thank you all for your ideas!
I am going to try hitting out some pins this week.
I am going to try a couple of things I saw here next time I get a Limitless and I will post my resalts here.

Lots of red thread lock and the hex on the screws is really shallow.
 
Also, I noticed Arrma is using ungraded screws on the gearbox covers of the 8s rigs, elsewhere too..cheaping out. Can tell by the shiny coating which ones are the cheaper ungraded screws.
:(. Wow Arrma is really splitting pennies there these days to save 3 nickels.
99.99 % of users will never know this.
Well known Taiwan YFS brand hardware, 12.9 grade, has always been the standard supplier for the Arrma 6s line. The 4x4 line only gets 10.9 grade fasteners. FWIW.
 
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IKR? I don't recall seeing the shiny screws on my 6s rigs..they have no stampings on them as graded screws do. What tipped me off was when I attempted to open my K8S diffs to check fluid level..any less than 90 degree use of a hex bit, stripped. Got my attention, after looking at the diff cover screws, I honestly thought they were torx!! That bad after one removal..replaced w/12.9, no issues with hex rounding out.🤷‍♂️
 
And I always thought those K8s/ OC8s Diff screws were always an issue for so many, either backing out or shearing off. :rolleyes:
Not a good place to cut corners and use poor grade fasteners.:unsure:
 
And I always thought those K8s/ OC8s Diff screws were always an issue for so many, either backing out or shearing off. :rolleyes:
Not a good place to cut corners and use poor grade fasteners.:unsure:
I mean the screws through the plastic cover outside. The screws holding the ring gear are graded, no issues there. As I suspected, front diff empty, rear about half full. Center, well, I couldn't tell how full it was, but it had some thick stuff for sure..looked like gasket maker.
 
You mean the bulkhead screws. Got ya.(y)
 
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My argument is why would the Arrma factory even use Red TL on the motor mount with the Limitless at all. It's is a dam Roller. With no motor. What are they thinking. We have to install the motor. Why even lock that poop down only to remove it anyway out the box.?
Do they truly use Red or are you guys just saying that because they are so hard to get out?
Lots of red thread lock and the hex on the screws is really shallow.
This is true or you tools have the bottem 0.2mm rounded.
 
Do they truly use Red or are you guys just saying that because they are so hard to get out?

This is true or you tools have the bottem 0.2mm rounded.

I actually don't know what it is, I watched a video of them assembling the WL Toys cars and whatever they used was amber colored, but I do know that it is not 242 blue like Jason claims they use.


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Likely some generic medium strength thread locker.
It has to be some sort of adhesive, there are no thread lockers that I can find that are that color.
 
:(. Wow Arrma is really splitting pennies there these days to save 3 nickels.
99.99 % of users will never know this.
Well known Taiwan YFS brand hardware, 12.9 grade, has always been the standard supplier for the Arrma 6s line. The 4x4 line only gets 10.9 grade fasteners. FWIW.
Thansk for telling me about screws. how dose the grades work?
Rlaarlo uses 10.9 on the road cars.
And I always thought those K8s/ OC8s Diff screws were always an issue for so many, either backing out or shearing off. :rolleyes:
Not a good place to cut corners and use poor grade fasteners.:unsure:
Ya, especially when its a $1000 truck.
 
It has to be some sort of adhesive, there are no thread lockers that I can find that are that color.
Maybe it's stem cell byproduct harvested from unapproved children?🤷‍♂️
Thansk for telling me about screws. how dose the grades work?
Rlaarlo uses 10.9 on the road cars.

Ya, especially when its a $1000 truck.
8.8,10.9, and 12.9 are the common ones.
12.9 being higher strength
 
I actually don't know what it is, I watched a video of them assembling the WL Toys cars and whatever they used was amber colored, but I do know that it is not 242 blue like Jason claims they use.


View attachment 339416


The workers are super fast. The jigs they have are nice. Quick work like that with the driver is why I had a trashed screw on a Rlaarlo and I had to drill it out.
8.8,10.9, and 12.9 are the common ones.
12.9 being higher strength
ok so 12.9 is good 10.9 is ok and 8.8 is trash.
Dose someone have a chart with info on it?
 
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