Arrma lock-tight is out of control!

[TN-RC]

Arrma lock tight has costed me $500 in value with in 6 Limitless'
I have taken apart 2 V1 Limitless' and 4 V2 ones.
The amount of locktight they put on the grub screw that hold the pin in that hold the wheel hex on is crazy.
I have a spot in one of my monitors be cose of a tool breaking in half do to ARRMA locktight.
I have a pile of arms and driveshafts that I can't use or sell. because of that pin I can't get the driveshafts out. even after using a soldering iron and mini blow torch.
NOW I have a chassis that one of the screws that holds the motor mount in stuck 2 of 5 I torched one came out one was stuck. I got a EZ-out (screw extractor) set today and when I tryed to take the screw out even after over a min of troching "I broke the took" the tool achly broke, I guess you buy cheap you get cheap so if anyone know of a high quality set or option I need a #1 and anything smaller like a #0 or #00 (if they make that size). I take a 7/64 dril bit to try and just take the screw out so I can still use the chassis well you will never guess what hapened... I broke the drill bit! and the tool steal that was stuck in the head was almost imposible to go thought with a hand drill.
I like the Limitless from a user perspective and from a resale perspective, but I am tired of them, and I am debating if I should stop buying the Limitless or any metal chassis Arrma.
If anyone has any advice let me know,
TN-RC

 

[chris adams]

I always dremel a slot and use flat head when I strip something. Usually works. The Drexel action gets the screw hot too.

I always dremel a slot and use flat head when I strip something. Usually works. The Drexel action gets the screw hot too.

Dremel

 

[Tex Koder]

Arrma lock tight has costed me $500 in value with in 6 Limitless'
I have taken apart 2 V1 Limitless' and 4 V2 ones.
The amount of locktight they put on the grub screw that hold the pin in that hold the wheel hex on is crazy.
I have a spot in one of my monitors be cose of a tool breaking in half do to ARRMA locktight.
I have a pile of arms and driveshafts that I can't use or sell. because of that pin I can't get the driveshafts out. even after using a soldering iron and mini blow torch.

Here's how I got it done..
Just a crescent wrench as a heatshield to protect the rest of the steering knuckle/hub and just put a torch directly into that grub screw for a good amount of time..

Was able to back it out pretty easy afterwards.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/dumpster-fire-or-a-diamond-in-the-rough.58743/page-5#post-914825

NOW I have a chassis that one of the screws that holds the motor mount in stuck 2 of 5 I torched one came out one was stuck. I got a EZ-out (screw extractor) set today and when I tryed to take the screw out even after over a min of troching "I broke the took" the tool achly broke, I guess you buy cheap you get cheap so if anyone know of a high quality set or option I need a #1 and anything smaller like a #0 or #00 (if they make that size). I take a 7/64 dril bit to try and just take the screw out so I can still use the chassis well you will never guess what hapened... I broke the drill bit! and the tool steal that was stuck in the head was almost imposible to go thought with a hand drill.
I like the Limitless from a user perspective and from a resale perspective, but I am tired of them, and I am debating if I should stop buying the Limitless or any metal chassis Arrma.
If anyone has any advice let me know,
TN-RC

Did the same thing to those Stubborn stock motor mount Screws too.
It helped!!

You just have to be willing to commit and Torch that sucker!!

 

[Dales396lt4]

Yes the amount of L/T they put on the grub screw is a big pian in the butt and a Dremel will not work! I have a bent drive shaft in the front of my Limitless and cannot get the grub screw out.

 

[Tex Koder]

Yes the amount of L/T they put on the grub screw is a big pian in the butt and a Dremel will not work! I have a bent drive shaft in the front of my Limitless and cannot get the grub screw out.

Heat WILL do it , just have to give it some time.

I didn't think it would work neither ,Before.
But once you commit and give it the flame.. it will come loose.

 

[CrashBoom]

I've come to the conclusion that they surely have a process issue on the production line. They've got it backwards, using a bottle of Loctite and a few drops of diff fluid.

 

[RCbuzz]

Here's how I got it done..
Just a crescent wrench as a heatshield to protect the rest of the steering knuckle/hub and just put a torch directly into that grub screw for a good amount of time..
View attachment 339181

Was able to back it out pretty easy afterwards.
View attachment 339182

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/dumpster-fire-or-a-diamond-in-the-rough.58743/page-5#post-914825



Did the same thing to those Stubborn stock motor mount Screws too.
It helped!!

You just have to be willing to commit and Torch that sucker!!

Nice idea on the heat shield Tex! Hmmm.. adjustable heat shield? More Idea's

 

[Dales396lt4]

It got bent and I broke the lower arm when I ran out of road trying to stop. I have a new one to put in but couldn't get it apart. So, it will get the flame tonight.

 

[KnowAir]

Here's how I got it done..
Just a crescent wrench as a heatshield to protect the rest of the steering knuckle/hub and just put a torch directly into that grub screw for a good amount of time..
View attachment 339181

Was able to back it out pretty easy afterwards.
View attachment 339182

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/dumpster-fire-or-a-diamond-in-the-rough.58743/page-5#post-914825



Did the same thing to those Stubborn stock motor mount Screws too.
It helped!!

You just have to be willing to commit and Torch that sucker!!

I've dealt with this exact situation many times too.. I never feel comfortable with the torch since there's always a plastic hub involved, so I just use a hammer and punch to drive the pin out. Then disassemble the axle from the hub and bearings. Then comes the torch if still needed. Often once the pin is out, the grub seems to come out easier as well.
If dealing with a Tekno or other race rig, this won't work since the pins are often indexed where the grub is into a recess in the pin..

 

[Tex Koder]

It got bent and I broke the lower arm when I ran out of road trying to stop. I have a new one to put in but couldn't get it apart. So, it will get the flame tonight.

Dragon Fire that sucker!!

 

[hobo]

use MIP hex drivers and heat does it for me. had a lot of problems with them though in the past

 

[slick2500]

Use a small punch drive the pin out, then get a drill bit the size of the hole in the grub screw and start drilling it will come out before you make it through the grub screw.

 

[Dutch]

I just crank the soldering iron to 500 degrees and hold on the grub screw for a minute.

 

[KnowAir]

use MIP hex drivers and heat does it for me. had a lot of problems with them though in the past

Yeah, quality tools makes a world of difference for sure! I don't have MIP but do have a set of Wiha bits, very nice.
Another thing is the amount of debris that gets into the exposed threads outside of where the grub screw is..rust..plus debris in the hex itself. I know I'm guilty of diving right in without making proper preparations of thourghly cleaning things out before attempting to disassemble..easy to do. At least for me anyways, cuz usually it's an inner bearing that blew apart in the middle of a bash and I'm anxious to get back to bashing. LOL

 

[cazrack]

After some lessons I learned and now it’s always soldering iron heat up screw before trying to wrench it.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

+1 on soldering iron being the best method.
That does not stop me from using the torch lighter every time though LOL

 

[RCbuzz]

After some lessons I learned and now it’s always soldering iron heat up screw before trying to wrench it.

How amazing would it be to have a soldering iron tip that was say, I don't know... 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm

Not for wrenching just for solid heating.

I know some of you can make this. Please put me on the list of Beta testers!

 

[KnowAir]

I've been doing this lately..SHCS, no exposed threads, larger wrench size. Not fighting with those basturd grubs anymore..well, at least not in the hubs.

 

[slick2500]

I don't run the grub screws anymore. All they do is hold the pin in while the wheel is off that is it. But I always forget they aren't there anymore and then get surprised when the pin falls out when I take the wheel off

 

[SrC]

Arrma lock tight has costed me $500 in value with in 6 Limitless'
I have taken apart 2 V1 Limitless' and 4 V2 ones.
The amount of locktight they put on the grub screw that hold the pin in that hold the wheel hex on is crazy.
I have a spot in one of my monitors be cose of a tool breaking in half do to ARRMA locktight.
I have a pile of arms and driveshafts that I can't use or sell. because of that pin I can't get the driveshafts out. even after using a soldering iron and mini blow torch.
NOW I have a chassis that one of the screws that holds the motor mount in stuck 2 of 5 I torched one came out one was stuck. I got a EZ-out (screw extractor) set today and when I tryed to take the screw out even after over a min of troching "I broke the took" the tool achly broke, I guess you buy cheap you get cheap so if anyone know of a high quality set or option I need a #1 and anything smaller like a #0 or #00 (if they make that size). I take a 7/64 dril bit to try and just take the screw out so I can still use the chassis well you will never guess what hapened... I broke the drill bit! and the tool steal that was stuck in the head was almost imposible to go thought with a hand drill.
I like the Limitless from a user perspective and from a resale perspective, but I am tired of them, and I am debating if I should stop buying the Limitless or any metal chassis Arrma.
If anyone has any advice let me know,
TN-RC

I agree completely. My V1 lim i could nt get off the motor mount to install the motor , They used so much Red TL
Same with the stub hex Axels. I torched the crap out them first and melted the hubs in teh proces. I always do this when new out the box and just have HH send me the parts. Sometimes they get all twisted, but I tell them its their common factory flaws that they wont address. That I'm just the end Loser User holding the bag all the time, that I have so much invested in their Poor QC models. And I know whats up.