Arrma Mojave Wheel and Tires?

[birgy85]

Does anyone know of wheels and tires for the Mojave other than the 6s Katars?
I can’t believe they didn’t update the wheels when they made the 2020 version. Mine keep rounding out the hexes and I can’t afford to buy new wheels every other run. It’s ridiculous.

 

[Cheez]

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/vitavon-hyrax.29814/

 

[birgy85]

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/vitavon-hyrax.29814/

Do you think the super Baja Rey would fit?

 

[StephenSchandelmayer]

With the amount of threads about the Mojave rims/tires you would think arrma or proline would jump on it

 

[birgy85]

With the amount of threads about the Mojave rims/tires you would think arrma or proline would jump on it

Tell me about it. The Mojave wheels are sold out everywhere because everyone has to replace them so much!!!! It’s crazy man

 

[Overpowerrc]

Do you think the super Baja Rey would fit?

Those are 20mm hex

 

[aametzger]

there are several other posts about this but im running the proline 3.8 trencher lp's. you will need to raise the body and trim the fenders but they work great

 

[Overpowerrc]

Also @MFM has done some messing around with tires

 

[aametzger]

Also @MFM has done some messing around with tires

Yes i think he is the resident mojave tire expert

 

[Yas]

Does anyone know of wheels and tires for the Mojave other than the 6s Katars?
I can’t believe they didn’t update the wheels when they made the 2020 version. Mine keep rounding out the hexes and I can’t afford to buy new wheels every other run. It’s ridiculous.

I'm trying to get to the bottom of the problem to so I can do a preemptive fix for when my Mojave comes

Is the issue that the top of the rear hub does not clear the inner wheel diameter enough? Or is it because of the pliable wheel mold? Too much axle/wheel play? All of these things?

 

[MFM]

I’ve tried just about every wheel arrma makes. Hands down most bang for the buck are the katar. The backflip lp
the proline raid wheels aren’t a perfect fit and require a tad bit of shaving on the removable hub. No big deal but they ride real nice wheather it be the trenchers or badlands. They must be the LP (lo profile or they will hit the body).
Same goes for the sweeps and or powerhobby belted tires. Just a lil w 80 or 100 grit on the hex so it doesn’t drag on the stock hubs. A permanent fit would be to run the talion hubs and axles stubs. They give a small gap that will allow just about any wheel no matter offset.
the Mojave wheels are small. I don’t like them nor do I ever run them unless I’m putting around w the smaller 1/10 guys lol.
im bout to start experimenting w the 1/6-1/5 20-24mm wheels. I’ve got big block power and bulletproof diffs and bulkheads. This is a MUST is you’re going to be running larger wheels. The weight of the larger wheels will destroy your diffs especially if your bashing hard and on the throttle all the time!!
grab some katars and get used to ur rig. The proline trenchers are my daily. They hold up real nice to the bashing I give em.

 

[aametzger]

Side note in addition the info that @MFM just provided regarding sanding down the hub, or running the talion hubs and axles, another option is - M2C 3160 ARRMA TYPHON/MOJAVE 17MM HEX EXTENDED 2MM. I have been running with these for a while, both with the stock wheels and now the trenchers and have not had any issues with damages hexs, or any wheels falling off. Not one loose wheel since installing them. I highly recommend these. Its a 2 nut system so it keeps the nuts from coming loose. I actually use one of the open nuts first and then follow up with a closed nut to keep dirt out.

 

[skidmarkus]

I’ve tried just about every wheel arrma makes. Hands down most bang for the buck are the katar. The backflip lp
the proline raid wheels aren’t a perfect fit and require a tad bit of shaving on the removable hub. No big deal but they ride real nice wheather it be the trenchers or badlands. They must be the LP (lo profile or they will hit the body).
Same goes for the sweeps and or powerhobby belted tires. Just a lil w 80 or 100 grit on the hex so it doesn’t drag on the stock hubs. A permanent fit would be to run the talion hubs and axles stubs. They give a small gap that will allow just about any wheel no matter offset.
the Mojave wheels are small. I don’t like them nor do I ever run them unless I’m putting around w the smaller 1/10 guys lol.
im bout to start experimenting w the 1/6-1/5 20-24mm wheels. I’ve got big block power and bulletproof diffs and bulkheads. This is a MUST is you’re going to be running larger wheels. The weight of the larger wheels will destroy your diffs especially if your bashing hard and on the throttle all the time!!
grab some katars and get used to ur rig. The proline trenchers are my daily. They hold up real nice to the bashing I give em.

What did you do to your diffs. Ive ran a dozen packs niw with the tallet wider tires.. hard on the throttle the entire bash session, its only a matter of time before my diffs go. I tear them apart every couple months for a service. But in the last year i haven't had any diff issues. Still all original diff components.

 

[MFM]

I’ve run over 150 packs on my beast trying a bunch of diff wheel set ups as well as gearing ratios. I’ve blown thru a diff of two. Everytime it ended up being slack between the spiral 10t and 43t ring gear. Shimmed properly, over time and use has worn down the bulkhead and bearing causing this slack. I’ve also blown out a center diff case when a rock got stuck in there and wore it down to nothing.
since then I have all aluminum diff cases and bulkheads. My front bulkhead is from vitavon which needed only one Tekno shim on the ring gear side. The rear bulkhead is hot racing and required 2shims to get the perfect mesh on the spiral 10t to the 43t ring gear. My super stretched talion which still has oem bulkheads uses 3 shims sometimes 4!
In my Mojave I run 20mil in the center diff that I service every 20 or so runs or whenever I notice extreme ballooning on the front tires. The front diff is packed w 125k and the rear w 75k. I go back and forth between 50 and 75 in the rear. Since the hot racing diff cases use a rubber o ring the seal tends to be for one time use or at least Imo. I have recently switched from the hot racing aluminum case to the arrma 6s aluminum diff cases. They use a gasket and I’ve had good luck w them.
After speaking w Mitch from m2c for bout 45 min he suggested that I break in the diff w a drill and check the mesh and re-shim if necessary.
thanks Mitch lol.

 

[skidmarkus]

I’ve run over 150 packs on my beast trying a bunch of diff wheel set ups as well as gearing ratios. I’ve blown thru a diff of two. Everytime it ended up being slack between the spiral 10t and 43t ring gear. Shimmed properly, over time and use has worn down the bulkhead and bearing causing this slack. I’ve also blown out a center diff case when a rock got stuck in there and wore it down to nothing.
since then I have all aluminum diff cases and bulkheads. My front bulkhead is from vitavon which needed only one Tekno shim on the ring gear side. The rear bulkhead is hot racing and required 2shims to get the perfect mesh on the spiral 10t to the 43t ring gear. My super stretched talion which still has oem bulkheads uses 3 shims sometimes 4!
In my Mojave I run 20mil in the center diff that I service every 20 or so runs or whenever I notice extreme ballooning on the front tires. The front diff is packed w 125k and the rear w 75k. I go back and forth between 50 and 75 in the rear. Since the hot racing diff cases use a rubber o ring the seal tends to be for one time use or at least Imo. I have recently switched from the hot racing aluminum case to the arrma 6s aluminum diff cases. They use a gasket and I’ve had good luck w them.
After speaking w Mitch from m2c for bout 45 min he suggested that I break in the diff w a drill and check the mesh and re-shim if necessary.
thanks Mitch lol. View attachment 108839View attachment 108840View attachment 108841View attachment 108842View attachment 108843View attachment 108845

Dude... the drill thing is amazing. Ive been running mine for a pack then taking them apart again and checking fluid levels and gear mesh. That drill idea is mint.

 

[MFM]

Dude... the drill thing is amazing. Ive been running mine for a pack then taking them apart again and checking fluid levels and gear mesh. That drill idea is mint.

I can’t take full credit for that idea. That’s all Mitch at m2c. But like I said, I have only had to change diff grease no parts since.

 

[MFM]

Does anyone know of wheels and tires for the Mojave other than the 6s Katars?
I can’t believe they didn’t update the wheels when they made the 2020 version. Mine keep rounding out the hexes and I can’t afford to buy new wheels every other run. It’s ridiculous.

Hey so I just picked up the 2.8 duratrax belted lockup mt. I find it’s similar to the stock wheels just a tad taller and wider. I’m gonna give em a shot and report back

 

[morrado79]

Hello guy first merry Christmas to all of you I’m buzzy building my Mojave EXB I have wheels that are almost the same size like stock. And they work super on the the original truck on 6s. And they look great and are cheap. FTX DR8
https://www.rcgeeks.co.uk/blogs/news/ftx-dr8-desert-racer-review-60mph

 

[morrado79]

This are the FTX DR8 wheels

Here I have them from but you can get them also by your local hobbystore....
€ 40,60 | Rc Auto Onderdelen 1/8 Korte Afstand Truck Afstandsbediening Model Auto Buggy Banden Hakken 17Mm Adapter Voor Arrma mojave Udr 336184
https://a.aliexpress.com/_B1Bx7I

 

[Yas]

This are the FTX DR8 wheels

View attachment 115942

View attachment 115943

View attachment 115944
Here I have them from but you can get them also by your local hobbystore....
€ 40,60 | Rc Auto Onderdelen 1/8 Korte Afstand Truck Afstandsbediening Model Auto Buggy Banden Hakken 17Mm Adapter Voor Arrma mojave Udr 336184
https://a.aliexpress.com/_B1Bx7I

Excellent find! ? These are the exactly what I am looking for ?

They have red as well!
https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-dr8-wheel-and-tyre-set-2-red/rc-car-products/445990