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Ooh that's going to be fun to make the 4S parallel cable or maybe I should just buy one.
https://www.radiocontrolpower.com/product-page/qs8-parallel-harness
https://www.radiocontrolpower.com/product-page/qs8-parallel-harness
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They're not hard to make (assuming you have a good soldering iron).Ooh that's going to be fun to make the 4S parallel cable or maybe I should just buy one.
https://www.radiocontrolpower.com/product-page/qs8-parallel-harness
Nice build log. Last night I was inspecting my car and I had the same problem! I recently upgraded to some scorched titanium drive shafts but I noticed that the input cup on the front drive shaft may have been bent which led to the drive shaft oscillating like yours. I thought that maybe this occurred during a recent crash but I couldn't figure out how that cup could have been bent so maybe it was like that all along?? Did you ever resolve this?I was able to get the sensor wire to just barely fit. I will probably get another one and splice it together to hide it out of the way somewhere. Another project for another day.
View attachment 204089
With the sensor wire the throttle is so much smoother and I don't feel like I'm launching a rocket just to get it moving.
A few very short videos.
Just for reference in case some else sees the same thing. This is the chatter I was getting from the throttle trim being off. It with the sensor wire in so it is much improved from the without the sensor wire.
The next two are of the front and rear drive shafts. They wobble like a wonky shopping cart wheel. The car is brand new, never been crashed nor over 18 mph.
Front Drive Shaft Wobble
Rear Drive Shaft Wobble
Are they usually this bad from the factory?
It's fixed with Raz Shifrin's carbon fiber drive shafts. I was taking apart the spool anyway and figured it was a good time to spend more money.Nice build log. Last night I was inspecting my car and I had the same problem! I recently upgraded to some scorched titanium drive shafts but I noticed that the input cup on the front drive shaft may have been bent which led to the drive shaft oscillating like yours. I thought that maybe this occurred during a recent crash but I couldn't figure out how that cup could have been bent so maybe it was like that all along?? Did you ever resolve this?
Glad you got it sorted. Who says you can't fix things by just throwing more money at it?It's fixed with Raz Shifrin's carbon fiber drive shafts. I was taking apart the spool anyway and figured it was a good time to spend more money.
The stock cups are definitely wonky and should be replaced.so it was the driveshafts? mine is definitely a cup issue.
spin everything while the wheels are off the ground and take a look.The drive cups seem to be straight, but I didn't look at it that closely.
Did you mean the picture of my 1721? I just used regular aluminum tape from the hardware store.Jerold
how did you get that aluminum tape to stick to the motor so well? I used the futaba tape on mine and it came undone within a couple of runs and I didn't want my sensor to get caught up in the drive train so I had to use a zip tie which looks crappy.
LOL I thought you were talking about this pic when I was swapping the leads.Jerold
how did you get that aluminum tape to stick to the motor so well? I used the futaba tape on mine and it came undone within a couple of runs and I didn't want my sensor to get caught up in the drive train so I had to use a zip tie which looks crappy.
These fit the Limitess spool, diffs, both?I've tried few different input cups..need to throw away the stock d cups asap before they cost ya alot more$ from a shaft flying around an hitting something.at higher speeds wobly shaft will blow bearings,destroy diff housings,or worst..I only use these..got big 2.5mm grub screws an spin great...Great mod over stock..
View attachment 256384
Diffs only,ramjam has many titanium centershafts an like there 8mm spool an cups better than scorched,also cheaper an ships fast outa ChicagoThese fit the Limitess spool, diffs, both?
I sort of created the space myself by going with the XLX2 and the giant CNHL batteries. If had used the MAMBA MONSTER X 8S or smaller batteries could have gotten everything on the deck without a bunch of extra work. The other option would be to go with a full speed body and skirts.Hi Jerold,
I'm considering getting an XLX2 for my V1 and wanted to know what was the motivation for moving the ESC from the center brace to the pan? Did the body not fit correctly? From my crude measurements, it looks to be a very tight fit, especially with the wiring. Or was it overheating the ESC due to poor airflow? Or was it the SRD's didn't fit correctly with the ESC in that position? or higher CG? or something else?
I have CNHL racing batteries as well and if put the ESC on the chassis it's going to limit the battery length.....
Thanks for the very thorough response. I started a separate thread and didn't get answers that I was looking for. I just purchased the cnhl 9500 mah during the flash sale so I was hoping to find a way to mount the xlx2 and have space for 172mm batteries and the only option would be to use the center mount but from what you've described, it would really annoy me as well. Therefore, I have to decide if I really want to use an xlx2 or if the MMX8s is going to be adequate.I sort of created the space myself by going with the XLX2 and the giant CNHL batteries. If had used the MAMBA MONSTER X 8S or smaller batteries could have gotten everything on the deck without a bunch of extra work. The other option would be to go with a full speed body and skirts.
What provoked my changes was a combination of all of the above. It's just a bunch of little annoying things that started to add up to me looking for a better way.
The mechanicals are very tight with the ESC on the mount. Keep in mind that before I also dropped the ESC mounting height, on the brace, by brazing angle aluminum to the side of the support. This removed the thickness of the mounting plate (3mm). And I still didn't like it.,
In retrospect I would probably just use different batteries and just cut the trays. I don't have the room to into the high triple digit speeds anyway. But I'm in it need deep and cutting a new road now. Since I have the big batteries I might as well use them and work around the problem I created.
- You have to raise the body, which looks dumb, but also says it's crammed in there and doesn't have much air flow for the ESC.
- The battery wires are crossing the car and jammed under the lid. Make sure you don't have them in the rear suspension.
- The ESC wiring super annoying. If you put the motor wires near the front, the the sensor wire is stretched. If you end swap it, you get long motor wires and they stick straight up and the body doesn't fit.
- It does have a higher CG, but that probably doesn't matter so much if you aren't cornering.
- The Ebay brace/ESC mount is weak and bends eaisly. This could be due to me heating it up to braze it as well or it could just be junk. Either way it needs to get stiffer. To do that I can try to harden it (bake and quench), but that requires bit more precision than I can do at home and I don't know what metal it actually is. Add more metal, brace the brace. Or the other, more viable option, is to ditch it and mount to the original brace using 10mm shaft collars.
Let me know if you have questions, I'm happy to share.
Thanks for the very thorough response. I started a separate thread and didn't get answers that I was looking for. I just purchased the cnhl 9500 mah during the flash sale so I was hoping to find a way to mount the xlx2 and have space for 172mm batteries and the only option would be to use the center mount but from what you've described, it would really annoy me as well. Therefore, I have to decide if I really want to use an xlx2 or if the MMX8s is going to be adequate.
I think if I want to use an XLX2 the best option is to use the v2 receiver box (or infraction) and cut the battery box and use shorter batteries. I'm building a VTE2 so I suppose that the CNHLs there....
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