Vendetta My low cell Vendetta build

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A little update, I am almost done with the front, thanks @Velodromed I have the bellcrank on order I will be using the mettle horn I have on the servo I ended up replacing the shocks with turnbuckles. The oil in the diff feels thicker than 10k nothing was new on the block about the diff, it was low on oil, that #1 weakness of Arrma's.
I have photos of everything so if you would like me to post something just let me know.
@LibertyMKiii what do you think about the 6S motor mount in the Vendetta? (Video in last post)
@vwturbowolf Dose Kaniz RC use his Facebook anymore? I messaged him saying that I was interested in his spool and info on how he did the Limitless motor mount, and he has not replayed.
Contact him thru Instagram
 
Here's some info that might help ya🤷‍♂️
Here's another motor option,I love this little motor.runs great with mmx8s an at 108$ great bang for buck motor...but for 2,3s ya really need more kv..
I always agree about a slower speed ST servo being much better. Yet many pay Big Money for $$$ FAST servos. When it needs to be dialed in much much slower. Way better and easy for speed running.
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@K-BASH
I was always of the opinion that the front wheels tend to go Toe Inward at high speed, while under load because they are "Driven" wheels. Depends on how much Steering slop existes. (4x4 chassis') The front wheels want to Pull, and are not Pushed as with Rear Wheel drive rigs.
Only with Rear wheel drive, I felt the front undriven wheels will want to toe out. I observed this on my bench after seeing a YT Video in regards.
But yeah in general , I agree for high speed running, a degree of Toe-In helps greatly. Almost mandatory. Or the rig won't plant itself well at high loads and very fast speeds. I will wander otherwise. Toe Out will afford quicker ST. Turn-In. Best for off roading. Not what you want for straight speed running.
Just me.
 
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The oil in the diff feels thicker than 10k
Are you talking about the rear differential? It may just have grease in it which you need to completely clean out and get rid of before you fill it with oil. Of course I could be remembering wrong. But if it is filled with grease it only equates to 1K oil so get rid of it. But again I don’t feel good today so I definitely could be wrong… maybe somebody else can confirm?
 
I always agree about slower ST servobeing much better. Yet many pay Big Money for $$$ FAST servos. When it needs to be dialed in much much slower. Way better and easy for speed running.
____________________________________
@K-BASH
I was always of the opinion that the front wheels tend to go Toe Inward at high speed, while under load because they are "Driven" wheels. Depends on how much Steering slop existes. (4x4 chassis') The front wheels want to Pull, and are not Pushed as with Rear Wheel drive rigs.
Only with Rear wheel drive, I felt the front undriven wheels will want to toe out. I observed this on my bench after seeing a YT Video in regards.
But yeah in general , I agree for high speed running, a degree of Toe-In helps greatly. Almost mandatory. Or the rig won't plant itself well at high loads and very fast speeds.
Just me.

I use a lot more toe-in than most and my VTE2 drives laser straight. I won't change it unless it behaves drastically differently with foams.
I have not broken that seal yet.
 
I always agree about slower ST servobeing much better. Yet many pay Big Money for $$$ FAST servos. When it needs to be dialed in much much slower. Way better and easy for speed running.
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I agree: a slower servo works better for speed running. I tend to slow my steering down on speed runs by using Steering Exponential, which prevents the vehicle steering from being "twitchy" during the first 30% to 40% of steering throw. I found that without using Steering Exponential any initial steering input at high speeds could result in an unexpected turn rather than a small correction.
 
Are you talking about the rear differential? It may just have grease in it which you need to completely clean out and get rid of before you fill it with oil. Of course I could be remembering wrong. But if it is filled with grease it only equates to 1K oil so get rid of it. But again I don’t feel good today so I definitely could be wrong… maybe somebody else can confirm?
It was the front, and it was oil, it claims 10K when you look at the part, I am thinking it is probably more like 100K.
 
It was the front, and it was oil, it claims 10K when you look at the part, I am thinking it is probably more like 100K.
The rear diff on a Vendetta or Infraction 3s (same chassis) is filled with grease, as I verified when I pulled the rear diff apart on my Infraction 3s.
 
I agree: a slower servo works better for speed running. I tend to slow my steering down on speed runs by using Steering Exponential, which prevents the vehicle steering from being "twitchy" during the first 30% to 40% of steering throw. I found that without using Steering Exponential any initial steering input at high speeds could result in an unexpected turn rather than a small correction.
The hard thing but can be good at sometimes, is when I was running my 2wd speed car I would have to steer a little harder since the weight was shifted off the front, that could have ended badly if I went from gas to brake while steering. I hope you understand what I am trying to say.
The rear diff on a Vendetta or Infraction 3s (same chassis) is filled with grease, as I verified when I pulled the rear diff apart on my Infraction 3s.
Thanks for letting me know I will make sure to clean the rear good. The front was an oil.
 
I always agree about a slower speed ST servo being much better. Yet many pay Big Money for $$$ FAST servos. When it needs to be dialed in much much slower. Way better and easy for speed running.
____________________________________
@K-BASH
I was always of the opinion that the front wheels tend to go Toe Inward at high speed, while under load because they are "Driven" wheels. Depends on how much Steering slop existes. (4x4 chassis') The front wheels want to Pull, and are not Pushed as with Rear Wheel drive rigs.
Only with Rear wheel drive, I felt the front undriven wheels will want to toe out. I observed this on my bench after seeing a YT Video in regards.
But yeah in general , I agree for high speed running, a degree of Toe-In helps greatly. Almost mandatory. Or the rig won't plant itself well at high loads and very fast speeds. I will wander otherwise. Toe Out will afford quicker ST. Turn-In. Best for off roading. Not what you want for straight speed running.
Just me.
I prbly got all that azz-backwards,for the longest time I could not understand why my cars where going all over the place on starts till I really started leaning into it,then gos super straight under power..SUSPENSION TORQUE STEER would be a good name for it.... Steve now that I think about it you are right because if you ever watch pick up truck sled pulls the independent suspension pickup trucks will snap the front end and it will go pigeon toe the Chevys do it with that independent friend suspension if you ever watch to pick up truck Street pulls on TV or YouTube
I prbly got all that azz-backwards,for the longest time I could not understand why my cars where going all over the place on starts till I really started leaning into it,then gos super straight under power..SUSPENSION TORQUE STEER would be a good name for it.... Steve now that I think about it you are right because if you ever watch pick up truck sled pulls the independent suspension pickup trucks will snap the front end and it will go pigeon toe the Chevys do it with that independent friend suspension if you ever watch to pick up truck Street pulls on TV or YouTube
Sorry about the spelling I'm driving and talk texting
 
The hard thing but can be good at sometimes, is when I was running my 2wd speed car I would have to steer a little harder since the weight was shifted off the front, that could have ended badly if I went from gas to brake while steering. I hope you understand what I am trying to say.

Thanks for letting me know I will make sure to clean the rear good. The front was an oil.
I had issues with a fast 2WD vehicle, and I had to add weight to the front to help with steering.
 
Well at least you’re being safe 😉
It's still illegal in my state..I yell an cuss at people doing it all the time,an here I am doing it😖.finally home from a long day at work,done driveing today,although I do got swb gt ready for a little test run after burning up new packs an xlx2 on last 162mph run...faster ya go the more expensive it gets..last hit cost me abut 420$$$..BUT,I woulda beat phildogs 157mph typhon gt world record by 5 mph if I would drove car back to me
I had issues with a fast 2WD vehicle, and I had to add weight to the front to help with steering.
That's 1 of my winter builds,I'm gonna build a 2wd speedcar,sounds,an should be crazy fun..
 
It's still illegal in my state..I yell an cuss at people doing it all the time,an here I am doing it
We’re all hypocritical at times. Man, speed running is costly in so many ways. Good luck with your GT bud!
 
@TN-RC IMHO I'd try an keep your build simple as possible,address issues as the come..my vendetta is all stock except electronics,spool,an grps..I don't change anything unless it's to fix a problem or change makes car faster..right outa the box the 3s lineup is great...I wouldn't worry about metal diffs or a bunch of mods till absolutely needed...to many changes can hold ya back an hurt your wallet..here's all my dettas current mods..
Esc,motor,spool,grps,20 million in diffs,20$ servo,horn instead of SS an some body support an that's it..I've only really pushed it on 3s so far at 124mph,1st 4s hot yesterday at 119mph...an LOTS of misc 100ish mph hits..I mostly use mine to get my packs closer to storage after running other cars....it's my pack drainer..lol
We’re all hypocritical at times. Man, speed running is costly in so many ways. Good luck with your GT bud!
I need all the luck I can get,down to my last xlx2 for this season.4th 1 for this season,hopefully I can get a clean 160 before bad things happen...couple 6s hits then 8s an all in..
 

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What do you guys think about the Diff mesh? It feels like a lot of friction there. Will it wear itself out or should I shim it some way?
I noticed on my mini infraction (same chassis/diffs) that it was far tighter than I had found it on all my other 3s cars. So I had to triple shim on the non-ringside gear where I normally only have to use one shim.
 
What do you guys think about the Diff mesh? It feels like a lot of friction there. Will it wear itself out or should I shim it some way?
It'll break in after a few runs.use temp gun alot at first.hot spots are high friction areas that'll need addressed.,I've become QUIK-DRAW-MCGRAW with gun.lol
 
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