Vendetta My low cell Vendetta build

[TN-RC]

@vwturbowolf Was it the shock itself or its range?
I can put spacers on the shock shaft on the inside and the outside and could use thinker oil.
If the Limitless shocks are the way to go, I guess I can do that, but the original ones or the Drag slash shocks are a 1/3rd of the price.

 

[vwturbowolf]

You can use the rear shocks if you want but the fronts need a spacer inside to lower the front end down some, or run the stock front shocks and run tie rods in the rear to raise the rear up some
Every car can be a little different you need to test, make a single adjustment and test again. I’ve hilt enough of them that I can take a car out and make a solid pass but usually they always need little tweaks here and there

 

[Senton_Prime]

Have @Tex Koder print you some shock limiters, that way you can lock the back down a bunch so it doesn't squat and u can hit the front with some shorter ones to keep your lift at a minimum.. that's what I did to the mega!!

 

[TN-RC]

You can use the rear shocks if you want but the fronts need a spacer inside to lower the front end down some, or run the stock front shocks and run tie rods in the rear to raise the rear up some
Every car can be a little different you need to test, make a single adjustment and test again. I’ve hilt enough of them that I can take a car out and make a solid pass but usually they always need little tweaks here and there

the rear is the problem, It's bouncing around (not staying planted all the time). Will the stock shocks work on the back or are they going to give me problems that I am just going to have to fix later?

Have @Tex Koder print you some shock limiters, that way you can lock the back down a bunch so it doesn't squat and u can hit the front with some shorter ones to keep your lift at a minimum.. that's what I did to the mega!!

Fuel line works good on the outside of the shaft to prevent squat.
Nylon shims or 3d printed ones would work good on the inside.

 

[vwturbowolf]

the rear is the problem, It's bouncing around (not staying planted all the time). Will the stock shocks work on the back or are they going to give me problems that I am just going to have to fix later?

Fuel line works good on the outside of the shaft to prevent squat.
Nylon shims or 3d printed ones would work good on the inside.

What’s currently on your rear? Shocks or tie rods?

 

[TN-RC]

What’s currently on your rear? Shocks or tie rods?

I have tie rods in both front and rear.

 

[vwturbowolf]

I have tie rods in both front and rear.

Can you post a picture without the body from the side of the car, with the camera level with the chassis so I can see the height and rake

 

[TN-RC]

 

[Luke66]

looks nothing like my 'detta.....

 

[TN-RC]

@vwturbowolf (This is just so you see my post with the photos, I should have "Reply" or "Quote" your post).

 

[vwturbowolf]

@vwturbowolf (This is just so you see my post with the photos, I should have "Reply" or "Quote" your post).

It looks like you have a decent angle to the car, if your road is too bumpy for tie rods then that may be why it feels unstable,
Make sure to delete or glue solid the servo saver because it will make these cars wonder a lot

 

[TN-RC]

It looks like you have a decent angle to the car, if your road is too bumpy for tie rods then that may be why it feels unstable,
Make sure to delete or glue solid the servo saver because it will make these cars wonder a lot

I have a metal servo arm on it.
The road is smooth, the car just does not seem planted.
I got a Stampede so I might borrow its shocks for a test before I use any new shocks.

 

[vwturbowolf]

I have a metal servo arm on it.
The road is smooth, the car just does not seem planted.
I got a Stampede so I might borrow its shocks for a test before I use any new shocks.

Don’t make any drastic changes. Your likely a couple small things away from a good running car,
Double check the alignment, 0 camber, and make the front wheels toe in a small amount.
Load the car up full weight, and lift the front wheels on a hard flat surface and see which wheel lifts first, slightly adjust both shock/tie rods until they lift evenly,
Then do the same thing to the rear, it will help when the car is under load make sure the wheels have the same lid distributed to them

 

[TN-RC]

Don’t make any drastic changes. Your likely a couple small things away from a good running car,
Double check the alignment, 0 camber, and make the front wheels toe in a small amount.
Load the car up full weight, and lift the front wheels on a hard flat surface and see which wheel lifts first, slightly adjust both shock/tie rods until they lift evenly,
Then do the same thing to the rear, it will help when the car is under load make sure the wheels have the same lid distributed to them

I had about -3 camber on each wheel, so I changed it to 0 or -1 degrees.
It looks like I might have had a little Toe out so I fixed that, that could have been a big problem there.

 

[TN-RC]

I had about -3 camber on each wheel, so I changed it to 0 or -1 degrees.
It looks like I might have had a little Toe out so I fixed that, that could have been a big problem there.

@vwturbowolf I think I need help, other than what is listed above and road being 35 degrees colder the car is worse than it was before (maybe ever).
I only got 48mph and the car was all over the place. I even still had the gyro on (it was so bad, I checked to see that the gyro wasn't set backwards)
I don't know how it would change it that much, I even turned the gyro up and it didn't help much.

 

[vwturbowolf]

@vwturbowolf I think I need help, other than what is listed above and road being 35 degrees colder the car is worse than it was before (maybe ever).
I only got 48mph and the car was all over the place. I even still had the gyro on (it was so bad, I checked to see that the gyro wasn't set backwards)
I don't know how it would change it that much, I even turned the gyro up and it didn't help much.

Try turning the gyro off until the car is running straight on its own.

 

[TN-RC]

Try turning the gyro off until the car is running straight on its own.

ok, I trust you.
I will put my FlySky receiver in the car so I can use my NB4, that should help.
I don't understand why the car is running so poorly.

 

[TN-RC]

Had the car all apart and its now back together. I have a steel gear for the spur installed now, instead of the aluminum one I had for testing. I'm using my NB4 now!
Shes ready to rip, end points set and 31/30 gearing. Something I forgot to mention that the 70mph+ passes broke my 3S PB, so this car is already doing work. I hope to get out tomorrow and make a pass, I don't know what to expect, all I am hoping for is to take home a car that is in one piece. 40mph-80mph is the expected speed.

 

[Senton_Prime]

I need to get back out there.. slacking on the 6s slayer!!

Good luck bro and Godspeed!!

Had the car all apart and its now back together. I have a steel gear for the spur installed now, instead of the aluminum one I had for testing. I'm using my NB4 now!
Shes ready to rip, end points set and 31/30 gearing. Something I forgot to mention that the 70mph+ passes broke my 3S PB, so this car is already doing work. I hope to get out tomorrow and make a pass, I don't know what to expect, all I am hoping for is to take home a car that is in one piece. 40mph-80mph is the expected speed. View attachment 331220

 

[TN-RC]

It's all over the place I need help @vwturbowolf and @K-BASH.
It did 53mph on 3S and I had it limited to 30% and I don't think it maxed out.
I don't know if the: servo is bad, steering is binding, or if the Hoons are just that bad. At about any speed it would dart to the left or the right.