My new Kraton 6s upgrade, repair, and build log. Aluminum, T-Bone, RPM, and more.

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OK. Just posting another update. Im about 95% done at this point. Just finished installing all 3 new HR diff cups with 60/200/30. All thats left now is my T-Bone rear bumper, T-Bone chassis skid, and an aluminum center diff support. I really love hows it come out. All the red aluminum looks awesome. Makes me want to buy another 6s something and do all blue this time!

List so far:

1) Armor werks Aluminum servo mount red INSTALLED
2) Hexfly HX3225 25kg servo INSTALLED
3) Flysky FS-GT5 Receiver INSTALLED
4) Aluminum Rear Lower Suspension Mount red INSTALLED
5) Aluminum Rear Chassis brace red INSTALLED
6) Aluminum Front Chassis brace red INSTALLED
7) Aluminum Front Lower Arm Suspension Mount red INSTALLED
8) Aluminum Front Upper Arms Rear Bulk Mount red INSTALLED
9) Aluminum Center Diff Mount red ORDERED
10) Arrma AR320366 Wheelie Bar Set INSTALLED
11) RPM 81472 Front Bumper INSTALLED
12) T-Bone 10045 V3 Chassis Skid ORDERED
13) T-Bone 10018 Rear Basher Bumper ORDERED
14) TRB RC Sealed Bearings for Steering INSTALLED
15) Hot Racing aluminum diff cups INSTALLED (60F/200C/30R)
16) Dusty Motors shock covers INSTALLED
All upgrades except for AL center diff support.jpg
 
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OK. The T-Bone stuff finally came and I installed the rear bumper and the chassis skid like I do on all my vehicles. But this time I decided to actually install the optional vinyl cover. It had to be fully cut out with all the holes, etc. but it came out awesome. While installing it I realized the skid isnt all that compatible with the stock Kraton bumper. It would have left a gap between the chassis and the skid for rocks, and other junk to get wedged in there. So thankfully I still had a brand new stock Typhon bumper and used that. Worked perfect. The skid also didnt have the hole in the middle countersunk like its suppose to be so I had to use a drill to fix that. No big deal. The bottom is a lot less plain now and has some style, not to mention even more protection!

Its basically done at this point with the small exception of an aluminum center diff mount still on the way. Overall I have to say the build has been fun, informative, and came out great. Now onto scratching, denting, scraping and breaking all that hard work!! ;) (y)

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Decided to install 14 tooth pinions in my Kraton and Notorious and found 2 RR ones on Ebay for only $4.20 each. So bought them both. Just installed them and thanks to others suggesting soldering irons to loosen up thread lock it was an easy swap. Just pressed the tip on the iron into the screw head and waited about 30 seconds. Broke free with ease after that. Should be interesting to see the difference.

Kraton 6s RR 14T Pinion.jpg
Soldering Iron to break thread lock.jpg
 
Yup the stock is 13. I tried a 16t when I first got it because a lot of people seem to use that. The 13t felt more hands on and in control ya know, I went down to 15t and never looked back. Temps seem fine. I don't have a temp gun or a fan but I can totally touch it for 10 seconds without burning myself so I'm sure it's within specs.

Stock is 13T on that right? So you went up 2 teeth also? Any heat issues, are you running a motor fan?
 
I played around with gearing in my 6S Kraton. I settled with the 16T. 17 was too high for me with heat and all. 15 felt ok but under geared a bit yet. All Stock electrics. Just added two 25mm fans to the motor.
 
Yea I had a feeling it just needed to be broken in. I never checked the diffs on my Notorious prior to driving it so I didnt have that as a comparison. Im sure it will be perfect after a couple runs. I also noticed that it got worse depending on how tight the 4 main screws are that hold the upper half on. So that must be putting extra pressure on the shim which also causes the mesh to be tighter.
I always do tight figure eights with brand new rebuilt diffs for at least 5-10 mins or longer. A proper break-in leads to more durable diffs. Been doing this forever. Ball type diffs can break-in fine done on the bench. Gear type diffs need a load to break-in, hence driving figure eights is best. IMO.
 
So the Xmaxx sized ones will fit the kraton 6s?

Yes. They just have them listed as X-Maxx because they are popular on that vehicle. They are cut to length strips and are stretchy. They would even fit my 4s Arrmas also if I cut them to that length. Pic added for reference.

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