Notorious Notorious… slow Velo build (a comedy of errors)

[Velodromed]

Mine snapped off almost exactly flush with the shock towers. I ordered a replacement today wanna find something more flexible tho eventually.


If you don't wanna ruin a perfectly good wing mount, pm me and I'll send em to ya when I get the new one in. Should only need some light sanding to get em down the rest of the way.

Very cool of you! I ordered a new stocker, low profile mount. Already got it and I can’t return it. Think it’ll work. Hope it’ll work. But if it doesn’t, I will hit you up!

I haven’t been able to work on the car in over a week due to illness, but the good thing is the rest of the parts I needed came in meanwhile. I just need to sit down and restart. I’m still seeing crosseyed though. Covid crosseyed syndrome

Reall nice body work.

Thanks! I did the best that I could with what I had and am happy how it turned out. When I get a new body eventually Ill just need to figure if I want to seal off the rear again or run a wing this time. I’ll figure that out while I’m running it sans wing.

 

[Crunchy Gears]

I got the replacement wing mount today so I'm gonna hold on to em as an emergency replacement for now. Yeah if the low profile don't work out just let me know

Definitely need body armor on the tailgate like you have if running no wing. 1 pack without it and my truck bed has holes in it already

Covid can be a bear to get over depending on what strain you ended up with, hope ya get get feeling better soon.

 

[Velodromed]

I got the replacement wing mount today so I'm gonna hold on to em as an emergency replacement for now. Yeah if the low profile don't work out just let me know

Definitely need body armor on the tailgate like you have if running no wing. 1 pack without it and my truck bed has holes in it already

Covid can be a bear to get over depending on what strain you ended up with, hope ya get get feeling better soon.

Thanks man! yup I’m hoping the Traxxas tailgate protector does it’s job. Got a TBone bumper/wheelie bar for it also.

How tight should the pillow balls be?

 

[Crunchy Gears]

Thanks man! yup I’m hoping the Traxxas tailgate protector does it’s job. Got a TBone bumper/wheelie bar for it also.

How tight should the pillow balls be?

You want all your suspension parts to move freely, So as tight as you can get before you get bound up imo. Thanks for the reminder! I actually need to check mine before I run again.

This guy does what I do.

Aussie playground has a pretty detailed video on how it all works and the why's if you're interested.

 

[Velodromed]

You want all your suspension parts to move freely, So as tight as you can get before you get bound up imo. Thanks for the reminder! I actually need to check mine before I run again.

This guy does what I do.

Aussie playground has a pretty detailed video on how it all works and the why's if you're interested.

Thank you!!

 

[Velodromed]

I spent 6+ hours working on the car today to end up back where I pretty much already was, just with better parts. This is cause I took it apart again to:

Put hot racing suspension mount things on. I thought they were only four but ends up there are five so I have to take the front end apart again when the one I forgot arrives. I didn’t realize there was a third one on the front until I put it all back together.

I put on RPM arms and they were a pain in the ass. I couldn’t get the suspension pins out of the old arms and tried quite a few things until it finally occurred to just boil them. Then they slid out easy. After I got them on I realized I RPM arms that don’t work as well with version five, so I have to order new shock mount bottom pins and the rear sway bar no longer fits, it’s too short. Do I even need one on the rear? The front one fit fine. Then I had to take the dang things off again because I forgot to put on the M2C droop screws

Installed hot racing steering blocks. WTF, why do they bind? One binds a little the other kinda bad. I spent way too long messing with them. Do pillow balls wear out and should I replace the existing ones that are a year old or so? Do I need to do something to the steering blocks themselves? Or do they break in…

Installed m2c top shock mount balls. The only thing I didn’t have problems doing cause they are stupid simple..

When I went to reinstall the rear wing mount so I could attach the M2c rear chassis brace, suddenly the M2C brace wasn’t high enough to reach anymore. Really? It was installed and fit just fine when I got the car. I messed with it 45 minutes before I put it aside and installed and brand new rear EXB brace that had been included when I bought it from Kusher. It fit fine thankfully. I’m just confused as to why I couldn’t get the original M2C brace to fit again. Very stupid confused.

Man, building and working on this thing has been a comedy of errors just like the 3s cars were when I started with them. I’m also not feeling good yet, just really wanted to work on the thing today. Anyway, slowly but surely. Yup.

Man, that fiddlesticking m2c brace is driving me nuts. It fit great when I got the car, why won’t it fit now

 

[Crunchy Gears]

I mean you don't "need" sway bars at all, but you may find the lack of them changes handling especially in the turns.

If the m2c brace fit before, it still fits. Probably just suffering from mental burnout from being sick and staring at what sounds like a pile of frustration for 6 hours. When ya come back to it I bet it'll slot right in

Rpm arms are still for V4 iirc. And imo aren't actually an upgrade on this model as the additional flex can cause the dog bones to fall out if your suspension isn't limited by droop and stoppers from what I've seen of other's builds using them.

HR is a mixed bag of quality in my experience, hopefully someone with knowledge of that particular piece can help ya. Your steering should NOT bind.

Binding can also be from your pillow balls being too tight. They do wear over time but I've never replaced them on my Tmaxx and that thing is 15+ years old as long as they can be tight enough to not wobble without binding the steering I'd say you're good.

Did you opt to use the wing after all? The pic looks like the whole thing is on there.

Time on the bench is never wasted always learning new things. You'll file the stuff you did in the memory banks and next time it'll be easier.

These 6s rigs are a little more involved than the 3s models, but alot of it is just because there's extra hardware securing everything everywhere, which is a good thing!

Good luck and get that m2c on there! You got the bling bits use em

 

[Velodromed]

I mean you don't "need" sway bars at all, but you may find the lack of them changes handling especially in the turns.

If the m2c brace fit before, it still fits. Probably just suffering from mental burnout from being sick and staring at what sounds like a pile of frustration for 6 hours. When ya come back to it I bet it'll slot right in

Rpm arms are still for V4 iirc. And imo aren't actually an upgrade on this model as the additional flex can cause the dog bones to fall out if your suspension isn't limited by droop and stoppers from what I've seen of other's builds using them.

HR is a mixed bag of quality in my experience, hopefully someone with knowledge of that particular piece can help ya. Your steering should NOT bind.

Binding can also be from your pillow balls being too tight. They do wear over time but I've never replaced them on my Tmaxx and that thing is 15+ years old as long as they can be tight enough to not wobble without binding the steering I'd say you're good.

Did you opt to use the wing after all? The pic looks like the whole thing is on there.

Time on the bench is never wasted always learning new things. You'll file the stuff you did in the memory banks and next time it'll be easier.

These 6s rigs are a little more involved than the 3s models, but alot of it is just because there's extra hardware securing everything everywhere, which is a good thing!

Good luck and get that m2c on there! You got the bling bits use em

Thanks bud, appreciate it. I love working on it, just was blowing off steam and hoping for some others advice.

Nope, the m2c is boxed. I’m just fine with the exb one and it matches the red round things. Down the line it’ll click, this is not the only time I’ll have this car apart. I love working on it, way funner then my 3s cars. It’s just so new to me and THERES NO fiddlesticking INSTRUCTIONS FOR ANYTHING

Dang…I love rpm arms and have on all four, 3s cars, so I may have been running on auto with that purchase. No worries, I saved the stockers if they piss me off. I do got those killer m2c droop screws also. Even double ordered (while sick) so have an extra set coming. A few o-rings I understand can help with the drive shafts popping.

I still hate wings lol. Good eye though. I’ll cut the wing mount tomorrow. While trying to get the chassis brace in it was easier to deal with while the mount was longer.

I’m going to pull the hot racing steering blocks, lightly debur/smooth as needed and use my Dremel polishing stuff to polish. I know their QC isn’t the best but I’ve done good with their products. Just kinda do my own QC finishing. I’ll inspect the pillow balls also and polish if needed.

On my mt10 I like the sway bars. They are more needed on front so I’m not worried about the back so much. I will look for a longer one though another day as I want to see what it drives like with both.

Yeah I’m still sick but was so ‘on’ with the car today! It was 6 hours of solid work, thinking and researching. It felt so good being able to think somewhat again and do something with out moving too much. It hit me today also…I have amassed every tool, screw, part etc that I need to work on the RCs I have. I love working on these things! Even if frustrating at times I learn so much. Some people think I’m really patient. I’m not. I’m stubborn, I want to do it right (in my mind lol). So I’m willing to completely take something apart again to just make sure I got it.

Tomorrow I’ll finish everything except the bottom shock mounts, Those pins will be here this coming week. Going to swap the 16t pinion for a 14t also. Man I can’t wait to drive this thing!

 

[dirt]

Had my stock notorious out today, thing makes you think your special...

 

[Tex Koder]

Velo,
Is this the vehicle you were needing the motor support-brace for?

 

[Velodromed]

Velo,
Is this the vehicle you were needing the motor support-brace for?

It sure is Tex! Looks like you’ve been making good progress on the mount. Im finally feeling better so trying to get the car going. No rush though, I’m not going to be sending it right off the bat. It’ll just be a Park basher while I get used to it and finish recovering.

 

[Velodromed]

Spent a couple more hours working on the Noto today and as soon as the lower shock mount pins come in, it’ll be done. Well… I need to fire it up tomorrow, center the servo and connect the steering. Then it’ll be done.

It has a 16 tooth pinion in it right now. I just got a 14 tooth pinion in and am vacillating between putting it in or leaving the 16t. On 6s is it pretty crazy with the 16t? i’ll be running full-size 6s backflip tires. Since I only have one 6S battery, I’m planning on taking my 2S Lipo’s and putting on EC5 connectors (ec3 now) so I can go 4s also. I could just start off on 4s I guess. Of course I could also just turn the throttle rate down. I’ll be using a Dumbo remote which has full range of throttle adjustment. Ugh

 

[Crunchy Gears]

Looking good!

16 tooth is the "speed" pinion that comes with the truck out of the box so I'd just monitor temps for it's maiden bash make sure it doesn't get too hot.

Mine uses a 14t (happy medium between stock 12t and speed 16t) and with fan installed I can do whatever I want without worrying about heat.

Regardless it's going to be a straight savage on 6s dude. Kick up the punch for more air authority if you're going to jump it. Otherwise just clip and rip!

 

[Velodromed]

Looking good!

16 tooth is the "speed" pinion that comes with the truck out of the box so I'd just monitor temps for it's maiden bash make sure it doesn't get too hot.

Mine uses a 14t (happy medium between stock 12t and speed 16t) and with fan installed I can do whatever I want without worrying about heat.

Regardless it's going to be a straight savage on 6s dude. Kick up the punch for more air authority if you're going to jump it. Otherwise just clip and rip!

Thank you, that’s what I needed to understand. I was wondering why it came with a 12 and 16 but that makes sense now, Speed Pinion. I’m gonna go ahead and throw the 14th tooth on. I was also thinking middle of the road may be perfect.

Yeah I’m not increasing punch or anything for a bit lol. Just like with the 3S cars, it will take me a bit to get used to the power as well as speed. I don’t have the reactions that I did 20 years ago. Too many hits to the head. Ill tell you though, the 3s cars have improved my reactions and ability to track at speed so much and hell yeah I’ll be jumping it at our favorite skatepark and the local bmx pump track when I’m used to it.
Thanks bud!!

 

[Velodromed]

Ugh… I’m going to take it apart again. I was intimidated to open up the diffs initially but they need it. I should replace the diff cups as well. The rear are pretty chewed up and the front are on their way to be. I’ve ordered two sets of M2C diff cups and once they arrive I’ll figure out how to rebuild the diffs. The center diff cups are in good shape so I’m going to leave those stock. Additionally I need to decide if I want to keep the limited slip differential that came with the car upfront or revert back to a stock open differential. I ordered a new open diff off Jennys so I could easily revert back.

I also didn’t loctite anything other than the motor mount and pinion grub screw. I know some screws need it, I’m just not sure which ones. Do all the metal on metal screws need to be blue Loctited on the 6s cars? I just want to build it right, so what’s a few hours more effort considering all that Ive put in so far

 

[Crunchy Gears]

Bummer dude.

All metal on metal screws need loctite for sure. Some may frown upon it but I use Red wherever there's metal and heat. Definitely need blue at least tho

 

[Velodromed]

Bummer dude.

All metal on metal screws need loctite for sure. Some may frown upon it but I use Red wherever there's metal and heat. Definitely need blue at least tho

It’s not a bummer really. I’m learning the hell out of this car thanks man.

 

[Velodromed]

Ok…she’s about as ready as gonna get at this time. Locktited what I think needs to be locktited, connected to my dumbo tx/rxand steering is set up spot on. Man do I like working on 6s rigs! It’s not that they’re simpler than working on a 3S car they are just far more straightforward, if that makes sense. Charging up the 6s lipo and will take her out a bit later.

 

[Velodromed]

Crap. I didn’t tighten the basher queen servo saver on install. The grub screw is tightened but also facing inward. So apart comes the front end.

Dang it…so hard to work in an atmosphere of bubbles. Thanks for getting the kid tons of bubbles, dear

 

[Velodromed]

So I took the front apart again, put the last hot racing upper pin mount on Id forgotten about initially and tightened up the servo saver. I really don’t know how to tight the thing needs to be in so I’m starting with ‘moderately tight’.

Got it all back together and as I took the below pictures I spun the front wheels and realized I’d forgotten to put the front driveshaft back in

So I just finished taking it apart again and I’m fumbling with the stupid driveshaft trying to get it in but I have a headache so I’m putting it down for a minute. Deep breath, deeeep breath…