Outcast Outcast upgrade Journey. Mamba XLX 2, 800kv motor (now 1100kv) , 39/39 (now 30/47) gearing and a few more bits.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I sure did..!! if that didn't bend or break it I don't know what you would have to do to damage them..!!!
Looks like once it's payday I'll be getting some 😉👍🏼😎
I don't know if I told you, but one of my M2C driveshafts broke during the a clean lading with my EXB K8S. This was like the 5th run time and about 10 jumps. Some bad crashes in between. So yeah, not good for long term reliability 😕. I'm probably going to test out the huge proline tires on my Outcast 8s today so we'll see what happens because I haven't broken one M2C driveshaft with that rig yet. It was looking promising for a little while 🤷
Just ordered the cases and boxes.
I had to use red loctite on the bolts that hold the differential aluminum cases together. Blue loctite just didn't cut it no matter how hard I tightened them! Same experience with the center diff bolts, but that one is aluminum from factory.
 
The proline Trenchers on my Outcast
 
As I predicted the 4.3 Trenchers were way too much for the M2C driveshafts. I'm going back to stock ones and the BFH to bend them back into shape. At least the stock ones don't break like a twig
20211003_141546.jpg
20211003_133210.jpg
20211003_114111.jpg
 
I'm so glad I didn't buy any, I heard of quite a few people breaking them 😩🤔
I'll stick with Jenny's for my stock ones for now...
Yeah. I don't mind the bending, but I do mind when the pin breaks though. I have like three of them like that. I have to see if I can get that pin out and replace it with another one. Actually I have a whole bunch of extra hinge pins from the Xmaxx that are easy to cut to the right size. I've used them before on one of my WFO titanium driveshafts that lost the pin (those are easily removed since they are held in place by a set screw).
 
I decided to remove that horrible underpowered servo and installed this other servo from HobbyStar. I did have to add extra shims to the front of the bolt on the servo saver for it to work and look right for some reason. I also finally opened up the Xmaxx stock motor heatsink so that I could install those game changer fans better on the motor. The tie straps were not enough since they kept breaking with 30ft jumps. I did the same thing with my K8S (the heat sink for the fans) :


20211027_141400.jpg
20211027_141405.jpg
20211028_104720.jpg
20211027_183835.jpg
 
I decided to remove that horrible underpowered servo and installed this other servo from HobbyStar. I did have to add extra shims to the front of the bolt on the servo saver for it to work and look right for some reason. I also finally opened up the Xmaxx stock motor heatsink so that I could install those game changer fans better on the motor. The tie straps were not enough since they kept breaking with 30ft jumps. I did the same thing with my K8S (the heat sink for the fans) :


View attachment 177020View attachment 177021View attachment 177022View attachment 177023
What is the see through cloth you have over the motor fans? Do you have a link to where i can get some?
Thank you so much for your time!!
 
What is the see through cloth you have over the motor fans? Do you have a link to where i can get some?
Thank you so much for your time!!
It's just a rustler dust cover. It's pretty much the same thing as women's stockings, so I would like use that instead if I knew that when I spent like $14 for a piece of cloth 🙄.
 
I'm getting the excessive overload code on my Outcast 8s with the XLX2 and 1100kv castle motor . I'll probably try out my 800kv motor from Castle once again since I think that 35/47 gearing is very rough on the batteries TBH. So I'll probably keep the same gearing and just change the motor. I need the 1100kv motor for the Limitless build that I'm doing anyways. I just want to see if I get that same error code with the 800kv motor too. I'm also considering swapping out the ESC for a MMX8S but this beast might be too heavy for that ESC. Thoughts?
 
I decided to remove that horrible underpowered servo and installed this other servo from HobbyStar. I did have to add extra shims to the front of the bolt on the servo saver for it to work and look right for some reason. I also finally opened up the Xmaxx stock motor heatsink so that I could install those game changer fans better on the motor. The tie straps were not enough since they kept breaking with 30ft jumps. I did the same thing with my K8S (the heat sink for the fans) :


View attachment 177020View attachment 177021View attachment 177022View attachment 177023
Both of of these servos SUCK. The Raminator servo is wayyyyyy more powerful.
 
I'm getting the excessive overload code on my Outcast 8s with the XLX2 and 1100kv castle motor . I'll probably try out my 800kv motor from Castle once again since I think that 35/47 gearing is very rough on the batteries TBH. So I'll probably keep the same gearing and just change the motor. I need the 1100kv motor for the Limitless build that I'm doing anyways. I just want to see if I get that same error code with the 800kv motor too. I'm also considering swapping out the ESC for a MMX8S but this beast might be too heavy for that ESC. Thoughts?
I was running the 2028 800kv on a mmx8s without issues, geared 35/39. I am currently running the xlx2 1100kv 2028 geared 27/39 without issue. Both pull a max of around 330 amps. Kraton 8s
 
I was running the 2028 800kv on a mmx8s without issues, geared 35/39. I am currently running the xlx2 1100kv 2028 geared 27/39 without issue. Both pull a max of around 330 amps. Kraton 8s
Cool. Thanks for the reply. My other XLX2 and 1100kv motor on my K8S EXB is geared at 30/39 gearing. It seems to be working fine. I think that I'm going to try out 30/39 gearing on my Outcast 8s. Or just try 35/47 gearing with the 800kv motor. Since it's easier to try out the 800kv I guess I'll do that first.
 
The XLX2 keeps draining down one of my cells to less than 3V. Even though I put the LVC at 3.5V, which is the Maximum that you can put it too. My Max 5 does the same thing. I thought that was bad for batteries?

20220205_170104.jpg


20220205_170125.jpg
 
Anything below 3.5V, on a recovered Lipo (no load) already leaves permanent damage. Those are toast, check your IR values.

The ESC doesn't see a cell, it doesn't know if one cell is low, it will only see the attached full voltage and 'a$$-u-me' that all cells are equal. If a pack is imbalanced or one cell already has an outrageously high IR, this cell will be drained dramatically faster. BAsed on your display all cells are equal, that little difference is negligible at those low voltages.

Can't tell you why the ESC doesn't cut off earlier. Does it never cut off or are you still rolling back when it activates? At best, you have ~10-20s once it's activated. The discharge curve is exponential for a lipo.
That is one reason why I prefer telemetry, ESCs are notoriously incorrect.
 
Anything below 3.5V, on a recovered Lipo (no load) already leaves permanent damage. Those are toast, check your IR values.

The ESC doesn't see a cell, it doesn't know if one cell is low, it will only see the attached full voltage and 'a$$-u-me' that all cells are equal. If a pack is imbalanced or one cell already has an outrageously high IR, this cell will be drained dramatically faster. BAsed on your display all cells are equal, that little difference is negligible at those low voltages.

Can't tell you why the ESC doesn't cut off earlier. Does it never cut off or are you still rolling back when it activates? At best, you have ~10-20s once it's activated. The discharge curve is exponential for a lipo.
That is one reason why I prefer telemetry, ESCs are notoriously incorrect.
These batteries are brand new. This is the first time I run them. The Max 5 and Max 8 ESC did the same thing with the stock settings (I since bumped up the cut off to high and will see what happens next time) The batteries storaged charged fine. Have LVC at 3.5V like I previously mentioned. I stopped driving pretty much immediately after hitting LVC. It's 8 cells it has to monitor so I guess that makes it harder for the ESC to catch all the cells at 3.5V? Telemetry through like a smart ESC from Spectrum or something? But I have a Castle system. I wonder if that's why some of my batteries haven't lasted long term? Probably so
 
Yes, get in the habit and stop before lvc hits if you want to prolong lipo life. The 3.5V setting should be sufficient, but there is probably too much of a delay build into the system firmware.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top