Typhon Soldering fkn sucks

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@jkflow im curious on why you wouldn’t want to solder onto the esc. What would the difference be between soldering wires on an esc compared to soldering say an IC onto a pcb? If those components can withstand the heat for 3-4 seconds, why would an esc not be able to?
 
All done... now the Kyosho body will fit
 

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SarsK9 said:
@jkflow im curious on why you wouldn’t want to solder onto the esc. What would the difference be between soldering wires on an esc compared to soldering say an IC onto a pcb? If those components can withstand the heat for 3-4 seconds, why would an esc not be able to?
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If you can do it in 3-4s on these wires you are doing very good and very low risk of damaging anything. I couldn't do it in 3s to be honest , wires are simply too thick. Granted I've never timed myself. I have seen many ruined boards by applying too much heat over time.
My motto is always to keep the work as far away as possible from anything worth money. There is no need to keep the barrels in the ESC while soldering, hence don't even risk it. Yes, the barrels should be supported or held in place but don't use the most precious item laying around.
This is just my way of doing things, doesn't mean it doesn't work.

For bullets, you need mechanical support only, piece of wood or pliers will work just fine. Your $100 ESC will work as well but...
For connectors (with plastic housing), it's always a good idea to insert into a mating connector. If the plastic does give, it will be held in place and it can cool back to the original mechanical location. Again, I suggest to not use the mating connector inside a high $ item (charger etc.) use something that you don't regret loosing.
 
@jkflow thanks for the response. I was curious on why you said that (always wanting to learn more) and tbh, I didn’t think of it that way. I’ll have to time myself next time I go on a soldering spree to see how times compared between connectors and doing pcb’s.
 
I deal professionally with board assemblies even though far and few in between lately.

If you would take 4s to solder a pin you would be walked off the floor ;), for components you should be in the 0.5-1s time frame with a precise soldering tip. The pads on the board will burn off quickly, my guess is at the 5-10s mark with a proper iron but with an uncontrolled one it can happen a lot quicker, especially if mechanical stress is part of that action.
In this case you are man-handling a stubborn wire. It takes forever to heat up and you are cursing yourself because you are holding the wire as it heats up ;)

I never looked how these cups are connected to the ESC board themselves but you have to heat up the cup, solder and pad to get the right temps at your wire. Re-flowing a solder joint is not always a good thing, it's better to avoid unless it's intentional.
 
I’m far from a professional, just learned it all to repair equipment if for some reason had a disruption to our supply chain and was good enough to get the work done properly. Being able to get the certain equipment back up and running quickly could be a life or death scenario. It’s also been almost 6 years ago so I’m sure my memory on all of it fuzzy ? I remember when we did the boards, I was thinking to myself “these stupid little legs” because I kept bridging them starting off. Most infuriating thing I’ve ever dealt with. Seriously, thanks for the info.
 
Consider yourself lucky if you have steady hands. Everything else can be fixed through practice and good gear/solder. I picked up a TS100 last week. My old rig is on top, the 100 is on the bottom. It powers off an adapter or a lipo pack and has a temp readout and adjustment right on the device. My problem is horrible hand tremors that I’ve always had, but has been getting progressively worse. Makes everything from painting, cutting, soldering, writing, and drinking and eating a nightmare. I’ve been losing the ability to do a variety of tasks as I get older and shakier.

AD56E7AA-CE93-442D-801D-5806FC47A296.jpeg
 
I really need to get soldering iron because I'm tired of paying people to do it for me.
 
arrmadillo said:
I really need to get soldering iron because I'm tired of paying people to do it for me.
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A quality soldering station will be a game changer. Just be mindful about not inhaling the fumes, it's easy to forget when your focus is on the project itself. Spend a little extra for something that has adjustable temp, you'll be happy you did.
 
Vedak said:
A quality soldering station will be a game changer. Just be mindful about not inhaling the fumes, it's easy to forget when your focus is on the project itself. Spend a little extra for something that has adjustable temp, you'll be happy you did.
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Man that fume it’s that last nose hair in back fk that burns ? mine desk fan would help also
Gamer1st said:
Consider yourself lucky if you have steady hands. Everything else can be fixed through practice and good gear/solder. I picked up a TS100 last week. My old rig is on top, the 100 is on the bottom. It powers off an adapter or a lipo pack and has a temp readout and adjustment right on the device. My problem is horrible hand tremors that I’ve always had, but has been getting progressively worse. Makes everything from painting, cutting, soldering, writing, and drinking and eating a nightmare. I’ve been losing the ability to do a variety of tasks as I get older and shakier.

View attachment 84507
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Your not alone bro ? I don’t have none of that And I can’t hold this damn iron for s***. Doing something so small and semi perfect can’t keep steady for poop unless I’m resting my arm on something
 
What temps are you guys using to solder battery terminals and ESC connectors? I’m using a hakko 888D.
 
I have mine at standard 750F but I don't like the Hakko for this type odf soldering, simply not enough power behind it. When I did it takes forever to heat the wire and the solder but eventually get it to flow correctly. Just a PITA on these wire gauges.

I use a 'cheap' 80W iron for all the bigger wire types and Hakko for everything else.
https://www.amazon.com/Weller-SP40N...=1591639017&sprefix=soldering,aps,178&sr=8-18

You need some thermal inertia behind it i.e. a big tip, in this case size matters ?
Also tried a 'soldering gun' but they are completely useless for this stuff.
 
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