Tekno MT410 2.0 Details

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Gregg, these last three photos are of the SCT410, not the MT410, correct? And the very first photo of the rig was the SCT410, not yet complete. And you're running a DS415 servo in it? And this is a 1/10th rig and the purpose is bashing, not racing, right? If this is the case, quite honestly I'd probably guide you to a DS505BLHV instead because it's tougher due to the all-alloy case. Yes, you pay an extra tenner and lose some transit speed, but for bashing speed doesn't matter and tougher case wins every time, in my opinion. all this presuming it'll fit (and suspect it will). Anyway, if you like, since the DS415 is new, you may return it for refund and get a DS505, instead. Your call, of course. And in support of my opinion, review this article showing the repair of DS505 after gear failure.

On rebuilding damaged DS505s
 
Hey @jbeech - yes, that's correct. This is a picture of the SCT410 2.0, not the new MT410 2.0. That said, they are nearly identical by design. There are only a few minor changes to the MT410 2.0, but there are no structural changes other than a shorter chassis. About the servo choice, I'm going to swap it out for your DS490BLHV. I just haven't gotten around to it, yet!
 
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Different parts than the EB/ ET 2.0:
  • Both SCT/MT use a new diff case that is all plastic, vs. the case that's in the larger ET/ EB 2.0 trucks (look where the bearing sits—it's plastic instead of metal). I bought alloy diff cups for mine (Tekno version for F/R and All Racing version for center). I haven't tried the All Racing version just yet. The Tekno versions are amazing, as expected.
  • There are different internal diff gears—not sure if these are any cheaper/ less durable (ET/ EB version, SCT/ MT 2.0 version). The new gears do not look as durable, but that's just speculation.
  • The SCT/ MT do not come with bearings for the sway bars (part number). They come with plastic inserts, and that does cause friction. I noticed my sway bars do move smoothly. I am going to install bearings. I have already installed the aluminum sway bar mounts.

Another note: if you're going to purchase the optional aluminum hinge pin holders, you'll need the hinge pin inserts (I can list the part number if anyone is interested). That said, I did not see anywhere in the manual regarding which hinge pin holders should be used (i.e., the -1 toe or the -2 toe). I bought the -1 toe for my SCT, and I think the stock toe (the plastic one) is -2. I can correct that by using the hinge pin inserts, but I thought I'd point it out.
 
Another update:
  • Earlier in my updates, I said I may have purchased the incorrect optional aluminum hinge pin holders. It appears that I did purchase the correct parts
  • Here are the part numbers (this is according to the manual's example setup sheet: page 29 for the MT and page 30 for the SC)
    • TKR9161B - "A" block
    • TKR9162B - "B" block
    • TKR9163C - "C" block
    • TKR9164C - "D" block
  • For the hinge pin inserts, use TKR5165, and use dead center for all four blocks

FYI, if you want to use taller batteries for the MT, then you'll need the battery strap from the ET 48 2.0: TKR9019.

Should I keep these updates coming? Or is this not helpful?
 
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Motor mount looks weak + M3 screws? Tekno dropped the ball on this one IMO
 
Don't most motor mounts use M3 screws if they are 10th scale? I think the issue Razor had in his video is the Hobbywing motor plate may have stripped out from his first bash. At least that's what it looks like. Btw, the old MT used M3 screws for the motor mount as well. I bought a custom motor slide from MMM Germany Custom Parts to upgrade to M4 screws. Unfortunately, they are no longer in business, but their U.S. distributor may have a few parts left. His name is Gary Mongol. You can find him on Facebook.
 
There used to be an optional part for the old mt410/SCT410 that allowed you to use m4 screws and larger motors, TKR5211 (non-x). That got discontinued, not sure why. Seemed like a pretty good option to have for flexibility of the customer's circumstances.

Would be nice to see that same thing here, but with the downsizing of the mt410 to true 1/10 scale, i guess the m3 motor screws make sense. Just get some longer ones like razor suggested.
 
Don't most motor mounts use M3 screws if they are 10th scale? I think the issue Razor had in his video is the Hobbywing motor plate may have stripped out from his first bash.

No -- I used a different set of holes for the second session and went up a tooth on the pinion. Not sure if it shows up in the video, but the motor is clocked another 60 deg. in the second video. 10mm screws is a must (possibly some other things, I'm testing some ideas).
 
Hector, what you're seeing is a common practice with manufacturers in need of raising the price but not wanting to upset consumers. So they make modest refinements, rename the product, and then hike the price since it's a new product with no existing price expectation. Or so they teach it at business school. Major point being, if they were still making the SCT, then because it's been observed the principal difference is fiddling with wheelbase . . . in all likelihood, it would have to be offered at the same higher price.

So I recently faced this very thing because I wanted to improve the drive train of mini-class CLS and standard class DLS series servos, both. Thing is, because I am successfully attacking competitors like Hitec, Spektrum, Savox, MKS, et al at existing price points, I was loath to mess with a formula that's working.

So after negotiations with my gear supplier, and with contractual obligations that tie me to them more closely with a promise to extend use of their gears into other products, I negotiated a price that allowed me to maintain the same price (yes, they cost more so de jure, our margins were also reduced). However, I decided it would better serve my interests to hold the line, pricewise, because then, a) we enhance the attractiveness of ProModeler products to the consumer, whilst b) increasing pressure on our competitors. A two-fer!

Speaking to my competitors, we're already kicking them in the head so improving these products cranks up the pressure (better product in going from all-metal to all-steel gear trains) while keeping the same price. Note; for the standard class, by also refining the seal and increasing the strength of the upper case), all of which increases the appeal to the consumer . . .

1024x720-Mini-Brass-2-Steel.jpg

- ProModeler = more bang for the buck- same spec and part number, upgraded from all-metal to all-steel - same price!

. . . and thus, instead of changing the product name/model numbers, ProModeler broke the rules and went against the grain by improving the product *and* holding the line on price. Win-win. A win for you, and for us - at the expense of our competitors!

End result? The customer (that would be you) benefits from a better product, and we not only keep the pressure on our competitors, but take it up a notch. Thus, their already poor position, entirely due to our competitive tactic, becomes worse . . . which was the point! After all, the Japanese are who coined the phrase, business is war.
 
Not going to lie, it's been hard to look at the current price tag with what the 2.0 offers, look at the old MT410 with respective price tag and what it was offering, and not feel like I just wish they were still producing the old one.
I agree, this truck is a fail IMO. Sure, it could be the best 1/10 MT ever, but also the most expensive.. To each their own of course. A $1000 1/10 MT?🤣🤣 No thanks.
 
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Yeah, it looks like you can now. For a while everywhere was showing it out of stock or "discontinued". Not sure what Tekno's game is here, if it truly is back in production.

However, it used to be going for $370 regularly -- for a long time. I think i got mine for like $300 with the tower coupon codes. I guess i just got adjusted to that pricing and took it for granted :rolleyes:

I agree @KnowAir, it's hard to swallow a $800 1/10 build.
 
Yeah, it looks like you can now. For a while everywhere was showing it out of stock or "discontinued". Not sure what Tekno's game is here, if it truly is back in production.

However, it used to be going for $370 regularly -- for a long time. I think i got mine for like $300 with the tower coupon codes. I guess i just got adjusted to that pricing and took it for granted :rolleyes:

I agree @KnowAir, it's hard to swallow a $800 1/10 build.
Yeah I paid $390 for my v1 MT410 in 2020. I know we can build this new one out for less than $1k, but even just the aluminum suspension plates adds another $130.. eh, I'll stop there. To those who desire it, enjoy! 🍻
 
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