TYPHON 6S BLX V4 MAXIMUM SPEED UPGRADE HELP

jondilly1974

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Hey jondilly1974,

Thank's for the information. That makes perfect sense.

I don't want to disassemble the diff(s) before adding the new fluid. Can I simply open them up, secure the inside components with my finger, and liberally spray the inside with "brake cleaner", then set then aside until all of the brake cleaner has evaporated?

Also, when I fill them with the 1,000,000CST fluid, do I fill them COMPLETELY to the top? The diagram in the manual of one of my other cars=Kraton 8S shows the fluid filled almost to the top. Obviously that would be leaving an air space.

Bye the way, what are you working on now?
I have a long list of things to get done. My Typhon GT body is staring at me. Needs final trim and paint. My Kraton needs shock shafts swapped out. I’ve been working on my 3D printer recently and still have some work on that to do. But I have also been busy at work these past few weeks and haven’t had as much time as I would like to wrench.
 

arelee

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I have a long list of things to get done. My Typhon GT body is staring at me. Needs final trim and paint. My Kraton needs shock shafts swapped out. I’ve been working on my 3D printer recently and still have some work on that to do. But I have also been busy at work these past few weeks and haven’t had as much time as I would like to wrench.
I'd be nice to see the GT body when it's done!
 

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Hi @arelee
I got some pics of the EM Performance trays. Looks nice to me.
Picture is worth 1000 words:
View attachment 60527
It would need some Velcro straps. Likely can use the Arrma ones.
Hey Liberty,

The trays look great. I'll get those.

I started a thread on THE ROCKET FORUM= ROCKET BOOSTED 1/8 SCALE RC CAR HELP, It's in "THE WATERING HOLE" category. Man, some of those guys are brutal. It seems like they want to "draw and quarter" me. However, one guy did contact me via message. He said not to let these know-it-all's, ( who usually don't know as much as they claim), get me down. In the past, he conducted the same kind of experiments. He was even featured on the Discovery Channel. He's more than happy to give me advice. I suggested that he come on over to ARRMA FORUM.

I received the Mamba XL-X. It weighs nearly as much as the Typhon. I can't wait to install it .

The 1,000,000 CST diff fluid also arrived. I don't want to disassemble the front and rear diffs. Can I simply open them up, hold the inner parts with my finger, spray the inside with brake cleaner, and let it completely evaporate, then, add the new fluid? Also, is lithium grease suitable to apply to the outside of the diffs?

Thank's.

Have a great day!
 

arelee

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In November, after watching a youtube video by David Windestal and his rocket boosted 1/10th scale car, I decided that I had to try it. However, I wanted to bigger, better and FASTER.
I purchased a Kraton 6s BLX and a Kraton 8s BLX. I was going to start with the 6s. That's when I came across " ARRMA FORUM". I started a thread= "ROCKET BOOST KRATON 6S AND 8S", (Check it out if you have a few minutes). Being a novice to the' new generation', large scale cars, I have a lot to learn. I was given a lot of valuable information from some very knowledgeable people.
Looking around on the internet, I realized that the Kraton was the wrong platform for this project. After reading about the "Typhon 6s BLX v4, and contacting 'Horizon Hobby', I realized that this was the beast that I needed to tame. I ordered one just before Christmas, along with an extra body, (to modify for aerodynamics and rocket motor placement), and a 'SKYRC speedometer.
The purpose of this thread is to find out what I need to do and buy, to make the Typhon go as fast as it can on a straight, asphalt surface, on its own power. when that is achieved, the rocket will be activated for max. speed. that's all this car will be used for, (for now). The Kraton 6s and its big brother can play in the dirt and gravel. If you check-out the above mentioned thread, you can see what has already been suggested. Same plan. Different car.

I am also wondering if there are solid rubber, racing tires with wheels that will be a match for the Typhon, without wheel adapters. Also, proper shock and differential fluids, and an easy to understand transmitter/receiver with a long distance range.

I have 6s 22.2V 5000 mAh batteries. Do batteries have anything to do with the speed of a car that's running fast short runs? If so, any suggestions?
Dies anyone know where I can buy a 6,000uf cap pack for my Typhon 6S?
 

LibertyMKiii

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Hi @arelee
I got some pics of the EM Performance trays. Looks nice to me.
Picture is worth 1000 words:
View attachment 60527
It would need some Velcro straps. Likely can use the Arrma ones.
These are the Saga RC battery trays as another option. Saga offers these in aluminum or carbon fiber. These are the carbon fiber ones.
The car belongs to @Notoriousone
saga trays Capture.JPG

Notorious one Capture.JPG
 

arelee

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Very Nice Liberty! I'm looking forward to getting mine. The entire car is impressive.

I just finished tearing-down my rear diff, and putting the 1,000,000CST fluid in. Man, that stuff is THICK! When I reassembled it. I can't turn the shafts with my fingers, I need to use channel locks. Thy seem to be turning properly, but should it take so much effort to turn them. I sure hope so. If it matters, it's 60 degrees in my house.

I bought a capacitor pack from phildogg. I asked if he would send installation instructions.

Have a good day buddy!
 

LibertyMKiii

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Very Nice Liberty! I'm looking forward to getting mine. The entire car is impressive.

I just finished tearing-down my rear diff, and putting the 1,000,000CST fluid in. Man, that stuff is THICK! When I reassembled it. I can't turn the shafts with my fingers, I need to use channel locks. Thy seem to be turning properly, but should it take so much effort to turn them. I sure hope so. If it matters, it's 60 degrees in my house.

I bought a capacitor pack from phildogg. I asked if he would send installation instructions.

Have a good day buddy!
Yep that sounds about normal for the thick diff fluid. It allows some give but acts much like a locked diff.
Sounds like things are coming together. Just remember when it is time for that first test drive to take things slowly and work up to speed. It takes some significant practice to get good at applying the throttle aggressive enough to get the run in the distance you can see, yet gentle enough to not spin the tires or make the car lift the front end. I would say it is between the 70%-100% throttle that is the most tricky part.
 

arelee

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Yep that sounds about normal for the thick diff fluid. It allows some give but acts much like a locked diff.
Sounds like things are coming together. Just remember when it is time for that first test drive to take things slowly and work up to speed. It takes some significant practice to get good at applying the throttle aggressive enough to get the run in the distance you can see, yet gentle enough to not spin the tires or make the car lift the front end. I would say it is between the 70%-100% throttle that is the most tricky part.
Man, you have no idea how glad I am to hear that the diff is responding correctly!!!! Very early-on in this thread, when I asked about upgrading, you stated "droop, spool and silly putty". I thought that you were joking about the silly putty. Now, I know.

There's still so much more to do and learn. That's what this is all about.

Thank's again for the good news.
 

LibertyMKiii

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Man, you have no idea how glad I am to hear that the diff is responding correctly!!!! Very early-on in this thread, when I asked about upgrading, you stated "droop, spool and silly putty". I thought that you were joking about the silly putty. Now, I know.

There's still so much more to do and learn. That's what this is all about.

Thank's again for the good news.
Yeah I literally purchase silly putty off eBay and jam it into the diffs :ROFLMAO:
I am going to try and make a video soon on speed run wheel alignment settings.
I will see if I can get that video recorded some time this week so you have that before you run this thing
 

arelee

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Yeah I literally purchase silly putty off eBay and jam it into the diffs :ROFLMAO:
I am going to try and make a video soon on speed run wheel alignment settings.
I will see if I can get that video recorded some time this week so you have that before you run this thing
Maybe I'll wait on doing my rear diff.. That 1,000,000CST is nasty stuff to work with. So sticky. Even with latex gloves it's a mess. I used 1/2 can of brake cleaner just to get it off of my tools. Seriously, I may just buy some silly putty.

Hey, the XL-X ESC has 8AWG battery and motor lead wiring. The Typhon's parallel battery harness and motor wires are 10AWG.

1) Is there an 8AWG wiring harness that I can buy to connect to the XL-X?
2) Regarding the motor, aside from having 10AWG wires, the plugs on both the motor and XL-X are different. Any suggestions?

TPPOWER USA finally got back to me. They suggested the "TP4060 2450KV"motor. They're out of stock now, but will be getting them soon. I'm glad that I didn't get the XL-X combo. That comes with a 2028 800KV motor.

I'm looking forward to watching your video about speed run wheel alignment. Awhile back, I started a thread, asking for help with wheel alignment. Didn't get many bites.

Later my friend!
 

jondilly1974

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Maybe I'll wait on doing my rear diff.. That 1,000,000CST is nasty stuff to work with. So sticky. Even with latex gloves it's a mess. I used 1/2 can of brake cleaner just to get it off of my tools. Seriously, I may just buy some silly putty.

Hey, the XL-X ESC has 8AWG battery and motor lead wiring. The Typhon's parallel battery harness and motor wires are 10AWG.

1) Is there an 8AWG wiring harness that I can buy to connect to the XL-X?
2) Regarding the motor, aside from having 10AWG wires, the plugs on both the motor and XL-X are different. Any suggestions?

TPPOWER USA finally got back to me. They suggested the "TP4060 2450KV"motor. They're out of stock now, but will be getting them soon. I'm glad that I didn't get the XL-X combo. That comes with a 2028 800KV motor.

I'm looking forward to watching your video about speed run wheel alignment. Awhile back, I started a thread, asking for help with wheel alignment. Didn't get many bites.

Later my friend!
Just buy some high strand, pure copper, silicone jacket 8AWG wire, some connectors, and make some up. At this level of the hobby, most things are DIY.
 

LibertyMKiii

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Just buy some high strand, pure copper, silicone jacket 8AWG wire, some connectors, and make some up. At this level of the hobby, most things are DIY.
My thoughts exactly. At this level of the hobby you will need to get good at soldering and doing heat shrink or have a local hobby shop do it for you. Once you receive the cap pack from Phillip you will have to add on connectors for it also.
I will add to Jon's comment that you might want to purchase Castle connectors as I have seen differences in various connectors, and Castle 8AWG wire is guaranteed good stuff.

Something to keep in mind is that you will want to modify wire lengths to fit your setup. At the same time you want to keep the wires as short as possible! This is why a universal harness or adapters are not ideal.
 

arelee

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Just buy some high strand, pure copper, silicone jacket 8AWG wire, some connectors, and make some up. At this level of the hobby, most things are DIY.
Thank's. I'll do that.
My thoughts exactly. At this level of the hobby you will need to get good at soldering and doing heat shrink or have a local hobby shop do it for you. Once you receive the cap pack from Phillip you will have to add on connectors for it also.
I will add to Jon's comment that you might want to purchase Castle connectors as I have seen differences in various connectors, and Castle 8AWG wire is guaranteed good stuff.

Something to keep in mind is that you will want to modify wire lengths to fit your setup. At the same time you want to keep the wires as short as possible! This is why a universal harness or adapters are not ideal.
Actually, I just got off of the phone, talking to a tech at Castle. He told me that I want to run my (2) 4S batteries in series, (I thought it was parallel). He emailed me a photo of how to wire it up, using 6.5mm polarized connectors, some 8AWG, black wire. He said pretty much what you and jon stated.

I have no problem soldering and using shrink-wrap tubing. I have a drawer full of it.

Thank's.

Have a great day!
 
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LibertyMKiii

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Thank's. I'll do that.

Actually, I just got off of the phone, talking to a tech at Castle. He told me that I want to run my (2) 4S batteries in series, (I thought it was parallel). He emailed me a photo of how to wire it up, using 6.5mm polarized connectors, some 8AWG, black wire. He said pretty much what you and jon stated.

I have no problem soldering and using shrink-wrap tubing. I have a drawer full of it.

Thank's.

Have a great day!
That castle rep is telling you to run 4s + 4s = 8s Is that what you want? I was under the impression you were doing a 6s setup...
 

arelee

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I
That castle rep is telling you to run 4s + 4s = 8s Is that what you want? I was under the impression you were doing a 6s setup...
I told him that I wanted to run (2) 6S 5,000mAh 60C 22.2V batteries in parallel, (I just thought that parallel meant one battery in each tray). He said that would burn-up the XL-X , in parallel or series. To get the fastest speed, without frying the ESC, I should run my 4S 5000mAh 50C 14.4V batteries in "series".
 
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