All new Traxxas Maxx.

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Uh what? The BXL-4s esc is brand new, it wasn't around 2 years ago. The esc that you are talking about came in the original Xmaxx 6s Monster truck not the Xmaxx 8s Monster truck, VXL-6S vs VXL-8S, the VXL-6s ESC has been revised and is currently in use in the E-Revo 2.0. The current VXL-6S is not known for catching on fire. You need to reread what you are reading and make sure you are reading current threads.
He can’t. He got banned from traxxas forum.
 
And the winner is...???

 
I am trying to decide between the Maxx and the kraton 6s (better shocks gears etc still cheaper than maxx but better than 4s)
whats your opinion on that choice? i can really only afford to buy like one vehicle a year
I know I'll get some flak for this but I would say Maxx, only because in stock form it will probably be more durable than the Kraton 6s. With the Kraton you will want a new radio, stock bearings aren't that good so you need to replace those, the stock chassis braces are junk and should be replaced, the stock chassis is known to bend rather easily so you could easily be in the Kraton a few hundred dollars more than the Maxx.

However the Maxx can't even come close to the handling of the Kraton, the Kraton will run circles around the Maxx and have more power as well.
 
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I know I'll get some flak for this but I would say Maxx, only because in stock form it will probably be more durable than the Kraton 6s. With the Kraton you will want a new radio, stock bearings aren't that good so you need to replace those, the stock chassis braces are junk and should be replaced, the stock chassis is known to bend rather easily so you could easily be in the Kraton a few hundred dollars more than the Maxx.

However the Maxx can't even come close to the handling of the Kraton, the Kraton will run circles around the Maxx and have more power as well.
I agree with you but I would still get the kraton and do the upgrades. Mind you I know ppl say change the bearings but I’ve only changed 2 bearings in my outcast and kraton 1 in each and they are both v2. I could not get over how easy the maxx rolls over reminds me of my stampede 4x4
 
I am trying to decide between the Maxx and the kraton 6s (better shocks gears etc still cheaper than maxx but better than 4s)
whats your opinion on that choice? i can really only afford to buy like one vehicle a year
What’s your driving style? I would say Kraton myself, because the Maxx is too top heavy and traction rolls. Yes you can do some tuning and make it less tippy, but it will never handle like a Kraton. Never.
 
I agree with you but I would still get the kraton and do the upgrades. Mind you I know ppl say change the bearings but I’ve only changed 2 bearings in my outcast and kraton 1 in each and they are both v2. I could not get over how easy the maxx rolls over reminds me of my stampede 4x4
I haven't had much luck with the Arrma bearings, lost both diffs because of the stock bearings.
 
I haven't had much luck with the Arrma bearings, lost both diffs because of the stock bearings.

I remember a long time ago when I was called a troll after showing that a Tekno Truggy or MT410 would be more economical than modding any Arrma to be as bulletproof.... anyway, I agree with you about the Maxx. on a tight budget Arrmas have budget blowing needs. I do think the infraction doesn’t fall into that given it’s on-road.

I say if you have a budget get that Maxx and when you have a nice flexible budget get a proper 1/8th scale Arrma or otherwise.
 
I remember a long time ago when I was called a troll after showing that a Tekno Truggy or MT410 would be more economical than modding any Arrma to be as bulletproof.... anyway, I agree with you about the Maxx. on a tight budget Arrmas have budget blowing needs. I do think the infraction doesn’t fall into that given it’s on-road.

I say if you have a budget get that Maxx and when you have a nice flexible budget get a proper 1/8th scale Arrma or otherwise.
Oh God I could have bought 2 MT410 kits for less than I have in my Outcast.
$424.99 for the Outcast
$98 for tires and wheels
$120 Hobbywing 4985 1650kv motor
$117 Castle Creations Mamba Monster 2.
$104 chassis
$50 motor mount
$50 for chassis braces
$50 for shock towers
$100 for Tekno shocks
$23 for shock springs.
$110 for Hot Racing gearbox
$48 for the gearbox covers
$20 for sway bar holders
$20 for Ackerman plate
$124 for servo
$26 front a arms
$14 rear a arms
$20 front bumper
$7 for Mudd guards
$17 wing mount

For an estimated total of $1,522.99 and I left a few things out.
 
Oh God I could have bought 2 MT410 kits for less than I have in my Outcast.
$424.99 for the Outcast
$98 for tires and wheels
$120 Hobbywing 4985 1650kv motor
$117 Castle Creations Mamba Monster 2.
$104 chassis
$50 motor mount
$50 for chassis braces
$50 for shock towers
$100 for Tekno shocks
$23 for shock springs.
$110 for Hot Racing gearbox
$48 for the gearbox covers
$20 for sway bar holders
$20 for Ackerman plate
$124 for servo
$26 front a arms
$14 rear a arms
$20 front bumper
$7 for Mudd guards
$17 wing mount

For an estimated total of $1,522.99 and I left a few things out.
I feel your pain bro? I've got over 2k in my kraton and need about another 500.00 till she's done ??
 
I remember a long time ago when I was called a troll after showing that a Tekno Truggy or MT410 would be more economical than modding any Arrma to be as bulletproof.... anyway, I agree with you about the Maxx. on a tight budget Arrmas have budget blowing needs. I do think the infraction doesn’t fall into that given it’s on-road.

I say if you have a budget get that Maxx and when you have a nice flexible budget get a proper 1/8th scale Arrma or otherwise.
I bought a tekno et48.3 and I must say it is way better than my upgraded arrmas. I did minor upgrades to the tekno just m2c braces and one flange bearing in the rear diff
 
I feel your pain bro? I've got over 2k in my kraton and need about another 500.00 till she's done ??
I left out all the misc stock parts I have replaced, the other bodies, other tires and wheels, Hot Racing diff cups, the GPM parts I had, Hot Racing suspension mounts all of them minus the front upper rear, front upper rear Voltage Hobbies mount, the Hobbywing Max8 system, the Leopard Hobby 4282 motor, the Alza Racing top plate, Hot Racing rear brace thing, Hot Racing pillow ball retainers, the cheap servos I tried and I am sure I am still forgetting things.
I bought a tekno et48.3 and I must say it is way better than my upgraded arrmas. I did minor upgrades to the tekno just m2c braces and one flange bearing in the rear diff
This is why I want to buy a kit, the initial investment might make a bigger hole in your wallet, but by the time you get done you end up with about the same cost.
 
I left out all the misc stock parts I have replaced, the other bodies, other tires and wheels, Hot Racing diff cups, the GPM parts I had, Hot Racing suspension mounts all of them minus the front upper rear, front upper rear Voltage Hobbies mount, the Hobbywing Max8 system, the Leopard Hobby 4282 motor, the Alza Racing top plate, Hot Racing rear brace thing, Hot Racing pillow ball retainers, the cheap servos I tried and I am sure I am still forgetting things.

This is why I want to buy a kit, the initial investment might make a bigger hole in your wallet, but by the time you get done you end up with about the same cost.

Honestly, I have (4) M2C fully upgraded Teknos with XR8 ESC/ motors and TEKIN servos and I spent less per truck than my upgraded Kraton which still doesn’t have machined hinge pin holders..... just saying :). I will say that I do enjoy trying to make RTRs as good as the race trucks but I think we all know that no matter how strong you make them, they will weigh more and the diffs will never be quite as good. Oh well, I like to tinker.
 
Honestly, I have (4) M2C fully upgraded Teknos with XR8 ESC/ motors and TEKIN servos and I spent less per truck than my upgraded Kraton which still doesn’t have machined hinge pin holders..... just saying :). I will say that I do enjoy trying to make RTRs as good as the race trucks but I think we all know that no matter how strong you make them, they will weigh more and the diffs will never be quite as good. Oh well, I like to tinker.
My kraton might as well of been a kit??? I didn't even run a full battery in her before I tore her completely apart and replaced almost everything. The other builds are going to be not as extreme (I say that now?) but the main upgrades off the bat will be bearings, m2c chassis, towers and braces. Probably rpm arms as well. My old rc10gt team kit was a complete box of parts. Had to assemble everything which was kind of nice! You knew you're rig when you we're done ?
 
@N4SIR kraton6s does not “need” anything. Maybe just a radio if yours gives you trouble. I ran mine for a year stock and did not do a thing to it. If you don’t try and jump your garage or live next to a super cross track you will be fine. Something breaks than replace it. Guys often will load their cars up with all kinds of weight in extra metal upgrades, and giant tires then wonder why the electrics are over heating. The car is pretty solid out of the box. Suspension and electrics are setup nice for the stock weight. Down the road you can make it a lot better if you wish.

Another option is used. The last few rc s I’ve bought used. Got a tekno eb48 for 170$..there is a nice deal @Mongoose has here for a Kraton 6s https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/v3-kraton.15609/#post-206769
 
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