All new Traxxas Maxx.

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I quess i wont bet a 6s rig if i plan to bash hard lol

Ehhhh no one is saying that. I think if you send any RC off of a skatepark ramp on to concrete for example and don’t land it then any RC can break. Same goes for just running around the lawn you can not break almost any RC. Anything 1/8th scale is going to be pretty tough.

I personally like to have the best of the best but I have bent stock Arrma shock towers easily with hard tumbles. I never had one instantly implode or anything like that so it is always user error. Get the best truck that you can afford and get your driving skills up as best as they can be.
 
Ehhhh no one is saying that. I think if you send any RC off of a skatepark ramp on to concrete for example and don’t land it then any RC can break. Same goes for just running around the lawn you can not break almost any RC. Anything 1/8th scale is going to be pretty tough.

I personally like to have the best of the best but I have bent stock Arrma shock towers easily with hard tumbles. I never had one instantly implode or anything like that so it is always user error. Get the best truck that you can afford and get your driving skills up as best as they can be.
I don't crash really anymore but i landed on all 4 2 days ago and exploded a wheel;-;
 
I quess i wont bet a 6s rig if i plan to bash hard lol

If you manage to handle your 4s BLX, you will feel you have a better skill with a 6s. The center diff. make a big difference, and the amount of power allow to handle them better while in the air. Just don't try to do Rich or Eric's jumps during the maiden run.

From what i experienced, the Arrma handling is better then the Traxxas i have. These chassis come from racing chassis and we can clearly feel it.

Yes, Arrma isn't at the quality's level than a Tekno or Xray, but it is more hard to find a tekno MT410 (or also an Xray XT8) in good used condition at a less expensive price than a Kraton, a least in my area.
 
This is why I want to buy a kit, the initial investment might make a bigger hole in your wallet, but by the time you get done you end up with about the same cost.
I made the same decision and the Arrma's are for sale. Just can't decide which one to get yet. Looking at availability i narrowed it down to 3 kits:
Tekno et48.3
Mugen mbx8t eco
Xray xt8e

Looking into bumpers right now.
 
I am trying to decide between the Maxx and the kraton 6s (better shocks gears etc still cheaper than maxx but better than 4s)
whats your opinion on that choice? i can really only afford to buy like one vehicle a year
@N4SIR kraton6s does not “need” anything. Maybe just a radio if yours gives you trouble. I ran mine for a year stock and did not do a thing to it. If you don’t try and jump your garage or live next to a super cross track you will be fine. Something breaks than replace it. Guys often will load their cars up with all kinds of weight in extra metal upgrades, and giant tires then wonder why the electrics are over heating. The car is pretty solid out of the box. Suspension and electrics are setup nice for the stock weight. Down the road you can make it a lot better if you wish.

Another option is used. The last few rc s I’ve bought used. Got a tekno eb48 for 170$..there is a nice deal @Mongoose has here for a Kraton 6s https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/v3-kraton.15609/#post-206769
Jym makes some good points here. I'll also add, run it on 4s, and the 6s cars are damn near unbreakable. Bump the pinion 2 teeth from the stock pinion, and they had good speed and power. Plus 4s batteries are cheaper than 6s. I ran my v1 Kraton and Typhon on 4s for almost three years, and can count how many plastic parts broke on BOTH cars on one hand. 2 arms, one wing holder, and one chassis brace.
 
Thing is....

We can all say “drive better break less parts” but if you have an interest in learning how to do back flips or other stunts you WILL break enough things on the 6s Arrmas like wing mounts, braces, towers, and most likely chassis. I won’t include diffs with that Because any diff can break if you land full throttle. I don’t think we all drive the same so in reality it’s hard to recommend an RC on a budget if we don’t know the persons intentions. Assuming he watches YouTube and sees guys full send their Arrmas, it’s irresponsible to tell him that they won’t break, or that they are less breakable on 4s UNLESS you mean doing circles on grass.

Maybe the best first Arrma isn’t a Kraton at all, I bet a typhon makes a much better choice. All opinion though..
 
Oh God I could have bought 2 MT410 kits for less than I have in my Outcast.
$424.99 for the Outcast
$98 for tires and wheels
$120 Hobbywing 4985 1650kv motor
$117 Castle Creations Mamba Monster 2.
$104 chassis
$50 motor mount
$50 for chassis braces
$50 for shock towers
$100 for Tekno shocks
$23 for shock springs.
$110 for Hot Racing gearbox
$48 for the gearbox covers
$20 for sway bar holders
$20 for Ackerman plate
$124 for servo
$26 front a arms
$14 rear a arms
$20 front bumper
$7 for Mudd guards
$17 wing mount

For an estimated total of $1,522.99 and I left a few things out.

"Kit" is the operative word. You would need a few other things...you know like a radio and receiver, a body, paint for said body, an ESC, a motor, a pinion, a servo, and 4 tires.

Now look at your list. $123 for Tekno shocks and springs? Waste of money. The stock shocks are more than adequate. $178 for the gearboxes, covers and sway bar holders? More money flushed down the crapper. $124 servo? ? And wheels and tires are a consumable. The stock BLX electronics are perfectly capable (people run it in their Teknos).

I understand the point you are trying to make but come on. As far as I am concerned, if you want to really send your 6s Arrma you need the following:
M2C chassis
M2C (or comparable) shock towers
Chassis braces (the new beefier Arrma plastic braces might be enough).

That's it. Everything else is a luxury item. Now this assumes you are a competent driver. If you are a poor driver there is no way of making an RC bulletproof, doesn't matter what brand it is.

And before I get ambushed, I am not suggesting that an Arrma is of the same quality as a Tekno. It is not. I'm just saying you don't need to be $1000 deep into your Arrma rig in order to bash it. That's just bullshit.
 
"Kit" is the operative word. You would need a few other things...you know like a radio and receiver, a body, paint for said body, an ESC, a motor, a pinion, a servo, and 4 tires.

Now look at your list. $123 for Tekno shocks and springs? Waste of money. The stock shocks are more than adequate. $178 for the gearboxes, covers and sway bar holders? More money flushed down the crapper. $124 servo? ? And wheels and tires are a consumable. The stock BLX electronics are perfectly capable (people run it in their Teknos).

I understand the point you are trying to make but come on. As far as I am concerned, if you want to really send your 6s Arrma you need the following:
M2C chassis
M2C (or comparable) shock towers
Chassis braces (the new beefier Arrma plastic braces might be enough).

That's it. Everything else is a luxury item. Now this assumes you are a competent driver. If you are a poor driver there is no way of making an RC bulletproof, doesn't matter what brand it is.

And before I get ambushed, I am not suggesting that an Arrma is of the same quality as a Tekno. It is not. I'm just saying you don't need to be $1000 deep into your Arrma rig in order to bash it. That's just bullshit.
You have to remember I had a V1 Outcast, with the toothpick shock shafts. I bought the Tekno shocks before the V3 models came out as it was the best and only option at the time. Yeah I paid $124 for a Savox 1211sg servo and people wonder why I try to avoid my lhs. Things are so frigging expensive there, not everyone has the luxury of having a good lhs in their area and when you need something now you get hosed.
 
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You have to remember I had a V1 Outcast, with the toothpick shock shafts. I bought the Tekno shocks before the V3 models came out. And the $124 servo was the only thing that my lhs had that was even close to working in my Outcast. Yeah I paid $124 for a Savox 1211sg servo and people wonder why I try to avoid my lhs. Things are so frigging expensive there.
Ok but your post was misleading.
 
"Kit" is the operative word. You would need a few other things...you know like a radio and receiver, a body, paint for said body, an ESC, a motor, a pinion, a servo, and 4 tires.

Now look at your list. $123 for Tekno shocks and springs? Waste of money. The stock shocks are more than adequate. $178 for the gearboxes, covers and sway bar holders? More money flushed down the crapper. $124 servo? ? And wheels and tires are a consumable. The stock BLX electronics are perfectly capable (people run it in their Teknos).

I understand the point you are trying to make but come on. As far as I am concerned, if you want to really send your 6s Arrma you need the following:
M2C chassis
M2C (or comparable) shock towers
Chassis braces (the new beefier Arrma plastic braces might be enough).

That's it. Everything else is a luxury item. Now this assumes you are a competent driver. If you are a poor driver there is no way of making an RC bulletproof, doesn't matter what brand it is.

And before I get ambushed, I am not suggesting that an Arrma is of the same quality as a Tekno. It is not. I'm just saying you don't need to be $1000 deep into your Arrma rig in order to bash it. That's just bullshit.

No ambush you are right, you don’t need to be $1,000 in the hole to bash any RC. Truth is, if you don’t mind tons of wrenching you can just keep replacing stock parts for cheap. I think what Slick means is that to build -his- perfect basher it took that much when a race kit would have got him there quicker and for less. That is the truth, can’t deny that when a kit that comes with 7075 machined parts as stock it is going to be less than building your RTR with hops ups chassis to chassis comparison. Electronics we all know are always separate and the factory Arrma ESC/motor is pretty good. I put that into my Pro MT. Anyway.... the 6s Arrmas are based on a race kit turned RTR so the basic design is solid. Teknos in my mind need the M2C braces for very hard bashing so they aren’t perfect either. To each their own I guess. I just bought a Talion, an infraction, and put down my deposit on this new 8s Kraton to go along with my 6s, and 4s Kratons so I cant dislike Arrma that much.

.... eh, the 4s is still a piece of crap IMO :)
 
There's one mod that is absolutely priceless, and for some, unobtainable: the driver mod.
If a kit came with that I’d buy it.
To save money when I want a new rc I just buy a new body and paint. Save maybe a grand or so...
 
I just watched a video on the new 1/7 scale Hobao. I dig the look and don't mind a HCG MT. I'm just not sure about that one. Seems under powered and I'm not liking the vids I've seen of the chassis breaking. That's troubling. I was really hoping the new Arrma was going to be a big MT.
 
There's one mod that is absolutely priceless, and for some, unobtainable: the driver mod.
If a kit came with that I’d buy it.
To save money when I want a new rc I just buy a new body and paint. Save maybe a grand or so...
Ed do you have one of these mods in stock? Do you collect them like RTR radios? If so, name your price. It’s bound to be cheaper than my weekly JRC bills. ???
 
Ed do you have one of these mods in stock? Do you collect them like RTR radios? If so, name your price. It’s bound to be cheaper than my weekly JRC bills. ???
I give private lessons. I can PM you my rates. Travel expenses are extra ?
 
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