Best RC LiPo battery connector types: Choosing and Soldering

[chevys10zr2003]

This is what I was referring to. The elimination of balance leads. Sounds crazy, but makes all the sense in the world. Might not happen over night, but you can't stop evolution.

Now if only they could incorporate the technology into the esc so that it can read each cell for low voltage cutoff instead of the entire pack voltage. That would be a nice feature to have.

 

[WoodiE]

Where do you buy yours? Just curious as it seems there are knock offs for most of these and they tend to not work as well as originals.

More times than not I buy my EC5 connectors from my LHS and never had an issue with them.

I have purchased the Hobbypark 5 pair's twice online and have had great luck with them and a decent price.

Anderson Powerpoles, (commonly called APPs) hands down, no contest!

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors

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Not enough people know about them (as evidenced by the OP's omission), which is unfortunate. They're interchangeable between all your devices, regardless of amps, no soldering, because it uses crimping (often referred to as a cold solder or cold connection), is a much better connection than soldering (lower resistance, no heating parts of parts, proper strain relief, no stiffening of the wire, etc.)

I've used them all, starting my hobbying with the Tamiya Connector, graduated to Deans, then Traxxas style, EC5, XT60, and XT90. Connectors are like a religious belief to many, but trust me, once you switch to APPs, you'll never regret it. They're so fast to connect and simple to crimp. I can change connectors on a battery or ESC faster than you can heat up your soldering iron.

Some claim they're too expensive, but when you factor in the cost of a jig, solder, iron and time (time is money, right?) APPs are a very good value. Being able to plug in my all my 1/18 scale devices to my 1/8 scale devices is huge when it comes to cost and time. I've virtually eliminated all adapters, too. I wish I had known about APPs when I first started out, I would have saved hundreds of dollars and countless hours screwing around will all the various connectors in the hobby.

I think you greatly missed the point of the thread @Ramjet as there is a difference between knowing about them and not mentioning them. As I stated above I was merely mentioning the most COMMON connectors in the hobby today. The thread is also geared toward LiPo battery usage.

Powerpoles have been used in the hobby for a very long time. I've used them many years ago, in fact my first Tamiya Chevy S-10 truck I bought used had them.

The powerpoles you've pictured above are rated for a whopping 45 amps continuous. There is no way I could or would ever recommend anyone here to use a connector that's only rated to handle 45 amps when many members are easily pulling more than double that rating.

60 amps is the bare minimum I would recommend for a battery connector and that's only if users are using 2-3s LiPo batteries. Anything more than that then 100+ amps is what users really should be looking at.

I'm also not a fan of the crimp on design of Powerpoles. I can remember several times a cable coming loose or being pulled from the crimped end in the past.

Finally there is price, Powerpoles are very much more expensive compared to just about any connector that's been mentioned in this thread thus far. When you start looking the the Powerpoles that are rated for higher amp usage they get even more crazy expensive.

Powerpoles served me fairly well back when I first started RC many many years ago and was using NiMH batteries, but I can't see myself going back to them anytime soon using todays brushless motors and LiPo batteries.

 

[Ramjet]

the most COMMON connectors in the hobby today. The thread is also geared toward LiPo battery usage.

Powerpoles are very common with the older, more experienced RC model plane/helo flyers. They use 10S and 12S LiPo batteries with them. Like I said, I wish someone had told me about Powerpoles when I first started.

The powerpoles you've pictured above are rated for a whopping 45 amps continuous. There is no way I could or would ever recommend anyone here to use a connector that's only rated to handle 45 amps when many members are easily pulling more than double that rating

I use the ones rated for 45A with 6S LiPo rated at 50C and because crimping is a much lower resistance connection than solder, the connections with APPs are cooler to the touch than any soldered connection. The 45A connectors are the recommended "continuous" draw, but that rating is based on the wire size the connector will accommodate, not the amount of current the connector can handle. Those connectors can handle peaks up to 200a amps.

Take a look at this chart showing Conductivity Of Metals Sorted By Resistivity . Copper is at the top of the chart. Solder is way down the chart. Solder has a very high resistance compared to a properly done crimp.

I'm also not a fan of the crimp on design of Powerpoles. I can remember several times a cable coming loose or being pulled from the crimped end in the past.

If you ask someone in the aerospace industry how high voltage high/high current connections are done, it's always done with crimping and never with solder. If a quality crimper is used and the correct technique is used, they won't ever come loose. Poorly soldered connections can come loose, too. Unlike a soldered connection, with Powerpoles the strain relief is handled by a metal clip in the housing and since there is no stiffening of the wire caused by solder, breakage is far less likely in applications where there is movement.

Finally there is price, Powerpoles are very much more expensive compared to just about any connector that's been mentioned in this thread thus far.

In a $50.00 kit, you get 30 connectors, making Powerpoles cost $1.67 per connector, with a one time purchase of a crimper (which is much cheaper then solder and soldering iron/station). At $3.34 per RC (assuming 1 battery connected to 1 ESC), they pose an excellent value compared to alternatives. I don't change the bullets connectors between the ESC and motor, because these rarely get changed and bullets have a space-saving advantage, vs other types.

 

[WoodiE]

@Ramjet use what works for ya. I've used them, tried them, and choose not to use them. I'll stick with my EC5's.

 

[olds97_lss]

Anderson Powerpoles, (commonly called APPs) hands down, no contest!

https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors

View attachment 30564

Not enough people know about them (as evidenced by the OP's omission), which is unfortunate. They're interchangeable between all your devices, regardless of amps, no soldering, because it uses crimping (often referred to as a cold solder or cold connection), is a much better connection than soldering (lower resistance, no heating parts of parts, proper strain relief, no stiffening of the wire, etc.)

I've used them all, starting my hobbying with the Tamiya Connector, graduated to Deans, then Traxxas style, EC5, XT60, and XT90. Connectors are like a religious belief to many, but trust me, once you switch to APPs, you'll never regret it. They're so fast to connect and simple to crimp. I can change connectors on a battery or ESC faster than you can heat up your soldering iron.

Some claim they're too expensive, but when you factor in the cost of a jig, solder, iron and time (time is money, right?) APPs are a very good value. Being able to plug in my all my 1/18 scale devices to my 1/8 scale devices is huge when it comes to cost and time. I've virtually eliminated all adapters, too. I wish I had known about APPs when I first started out, I would have saved hundreds of dollars and countless hours screwing around will all the various connectors in the hobby.

Never would have thought solderless would be a better/more durable connection. But I know what you mean about the solder wicking up the wire and causing it to break over time due to flexing. I had that happen a few times already.

 

[WoodiE]

Never would have thought solderless would be a better/more durable connection.

News to me as well. Seems there are tons of electronics on todays planes and every circuit board I've ever seen they are all soldered on and not crimped. I don't know anyone that works in the aerospace industry or heck even anyone that works in any area of an airport so I certainly have no way to verify if crimping is the desired way to connect wires together or to other components. So I'll take it for his word.

 

[ChicagoMaxx]

I've used Deans, XT90, XT150. Only problems I had with Deans they get a bit hot. No problems with XT90 but I prefer to use XT150 from now on all my rc's.

 

[Motorider]

News to me as well. Seems there are tons of electronics on todays planes and every circuit board I've ever seen they are all soldered on and not crimped. I don't know anyone that works in the aerospace industry or heck even anyone that works in any area of an airport so I certainly have no way to verify if crimping is the desired way to connect wires together or to other components. So I'll take it for his word.

He is correct. Crimping is a lower resistance connection. It is in fact the preferred way. The problem lies within the crimping too. In order to get a great connection, the crimp must be done correctly and at the correct pressure. When a crimp is done, a cutaway of the wire inside of the crimp looks lie one solid piece of wire. The problem is that those particular connectors are rated for a low amperage.

I performed a test of a crimped connector like the one shown in my link. I used a standard klein tools crimper that was about $40 compared to my nice $70 crimper purchased from marine how to. The klein connectors produced a crimp that would always pull apart. Granted it took a fair amount of pressure while the stake on was clamped into the vice to get it apart. The fun test was with the nice crimper tool. When I placed one of those connectors into the vice, I broke the #12 wire 4 times. Not once did it break near the crimped end. It always broke where i had to wrap it around my pliers. It took a tremendous effort to break the wire.

Now if someone made connectors like the ec5's and had the connection end a crimp, they would be amazing. As it stands, I have to solder my motor connections anyhow, so I will always need my weller we1010 soldering station. I also use xt60 and xt90 connectors on all of my rigs. I find them easy to solder and more than capable.

Some information on crimped connectors

 

[Ramjet]

Seems there are tons of electronics on today's planes and every circuit board I've ever seen they are all soldered on and not crimped.

Circuit boards? I thought we discussing "Best RC LiPo battery connector types" as the post title suggests. Soldering is the best application use for circuit boards. However, high current connections (between LiPo battery and ESC) are best done with connections that don't involve solder.

 

[WoodiE]

Good stuff @Motorhead, thanks for sharing! Some good info on those links.

Glad to hear the XT60's and 90's are doing you well.

 

[Cheapbastard]

However, high current connections (between LiPo battery and ESC) are best done with connections that don't involve solder.

Riddle me this why are solder connectors used in the r/c industry then somebody please enlighten me.

 

[Ramjet]

Riddle me this why are solder connectors used in the r/c industry then somebody please enlighten me.

I love your screen name. It depicts exactly why I switched to Anderson Powerpoles and wish I had made the switch a long time ago. I hope the information in this thread will benefit others, especially those that are new in the hobby.

Here's the answer to your riddle. For RC LiPo battery connectors, the top picture is all the stuff I've accumulated over my time in the hobby. The bottom picture is what I use today (most of my Powerpoles are used up, that's why the bins are mostly empty). Which picture depicts the scenario that is more profitable for the r/c industry?

A picture is worth a thousand words, right?

 

[Cheapbastard]

I love your screen name. It depicts exactly why I switched to Anderson Powerpoles and wish I had made the switch a long time ago. I hope the information in this thread will benefit others, especially those that are new in the hobby.

Here's the answer to your riddle. For RC LiPo battery connectors, the top picture is all the stuff I've accumulated over my time in the hobby. The bottom picture is what I use today (most of my Powerpoles are used up, that's why the bins are mostly empty). Which picture depicts the scenario that is more profitable for the r/c industry?

A picture is worth a thousand words, right?


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Alright I understand profit and Traxxas with stuff like their own connector keep the money in house and funnel the money into your own brand. Power poles are no secret just don't understand than if they are so great why doesn't everybody use for them for their simplicity are we all brainwashed then to funnel our money into soldered connections and associated equipment plus materials? What you say makes some sense then are we all senseless and stupid then for using solder connections since a crimp is a better connection? This should be shouted from the rooftops then I guess but then I guess no one is really listening. In the end like @WoodiE said whatever works best for you (or floats your boat). Then like somebodies signature on another site I saw, some are "Anderson Power Poles for life".

 

[Motorider]

I love your screen name. It depicts exactly why I switched to Anderson Powerpoles and wish I had made the switch a long time ago. I hope the information in this thread will benefit others, especially those that are new in the hobby.

Here's the answer to your riddle. For RC LiPo battery connectors, the top picture is all the stuff I've accumulated over my time in the hobby. The bottom picture is what I use today (most of my Powerpoles are used up, that's why the bins are mostly empty). Which picture depicts the scenario that is more profitable for the r/c industry?

A picture is worth a thousand words, right?


View attachment 30704

View attachment 30705

I have those same crimpers with dies to make custom servo cables and controls cables.

Riddle me this why are solder connectors used in the r/c industry then somebody please enlighten me.

I believe the reason is 2 fold. Few people are trained or understand the difference between a properly crimped connection and a poorly crimped connection. Also, the best crimped connections will be copper. This copper is more susceptible to abuse. The stiffer nature of our solder connectors will afford the average person a more durable connection if properly soldered. It also could be market driven to force more people to have wiring done at a hobby shop.

Solder is another connection that many don't get right. Solder type connectors can be reused over and over. A crimped connector is trash if the battery goes bad or if you make a mistake on the crimp. Solder can simply be reflowed to correct a problem.

 

[WoodiE]

why doesn't everybody use for them for their simplicity are we all brainwashed then to funnel our money into soldered connections and associated equipment plus materials?

@Cheapbastard - First you must understand, connectors are a huge business. The first post of this thread only barely scratches the surface. There are MANY MANY more different types of connectors.

Traxxas is a prime example of this and how they are taking it a step further by locking users into only their chargers and batteries which only further pads their bottom line.

Solder type connectors can be reused over and over. A crimped connector is trash if the battery goes bad or if you make a mistake on the crimp. Solder can simply be reflowed to correct a problem.

That's a good point about crimped connections, it's a one and done deal. You either crimped it right on the first time or you've pretty much messed up the end and their is no re-using them compared to some other soldered on connectors.

I can tell you my 14 year old self sucked at crimping.


@Ramjet what crimper do you use that's pictured above?

 

[Ramjet]

It also could be market driven to force more people to have wiring done at a hobby shop.

No offense to Hobby shops and their staff, but those techs recommending and implementing soldered connections are paid $10-$15/ hour and need to sell the connectors they have in stock to provide solutions, so they don't have any other choice. I'm willing to bet that a tiny percentage of hobby shops stock Anderson Powerpoles and most Hobby shop personnel have never heard of them. Unfortunately, Hobby shop owners face an uphill climb convincing their personnel and patrons to admit they've made poor investments in their soldered connections and the apparatus that is required to support these connections. It's not their fault, because Powerwerx (the makers of Powerpoles) probably haven't been successful in penetrating the channel of vendors providing RC cars and related vertical markets (LiPo Batteries and ESCs for example).

What you say makes some sense then are we all senseless and stupid then for using solder connections since a crimp is a better connection?

From what time I'm spent on this forum, I can't qualify anyone as is senseless and stupid, but naive comes to mind and I don't mean that in a negative or condescending sense.

This should be shouted from the rooftops then I guess but then I guess no one is really listening

That's exactly what I'm doing. I'm shouting it from the rooftops, which is why I've spent so much time and energy on this post. I've shouted it on some other forums, too. Spread the word!

 

[Ramjet]

@Ramjet what crimper do you use that's pictured above?

This is the one I use, it's made by IWISS. It's really solid; it has done a really good job for me and it seems to be manufactured specifically for Anderson Powerpoles. There may be other good crimpers, but I did some research and many people reported this one as a good one for crimping Anderson Powerpoles. Amazon reviews are really good, too.

 

[Brandon]

Good to know there is another alternative to my horrible do it 3 times soldering. Will give this a try on some cold connections I just gave up on and see how it works. Thanks for the dialogue on this.

 

[PowerDubs]

Crimps can suck it. Your average person will screw it up to start with. Then that will cause it to loosen over time, and corrosion issues, limited contact point, etc.

You quote a chart listing conductive / resistance- but that gives no reference to what we need.

Meaning given the gauge of our wires, it is entirely possible that even with any loss from solder we may still be an order of magnitude above what the system needs and draws for our application.

I'll stick to solder every time, every day.

Here is what I did last week, with a crude 45 year old iron.

My method is an easy process- takes me literally a few seconds on each joint.

Here is what I do.

Step one- turn the connector with pliers so the curve is the bottom- like a U

Step two- stick the iron under the connector to heat it up while holding the solder on top in the U

Step three- the solder will eventually melt in the U, and I push the solder into the liquid pool to move it down into the inside of the connector while adding more as I pull out.

Step four- put down the solder, pick up the wire, and push it into the liquid pool U connector, sliding the wire deep inside round part.

Step five- I back off the iron for a second to let the solder firm up- while I pick up the solder again, then stick the iron back on the bottom until the solder remelts and I add a little more on top.

Done.

Sounds like a lot- but very very easy, solid, repeatable, hard to screw up, and fast!!

Done on the right- half done on left, need reheat and 'top coat'.

Done joint-

 

[Dutch213]

No offense to Hobby shops and their staff, but those techs recommending and implementing soldered connections are paid $10-$15/ hour and need to sell the connectors they have in stock to provide solutions, so they don't have any other choice. I'm willing to bet that a tiny percentage of hobby shops stock Anderson Powerpoles and most Hobby shop personnel have never heard of them. Unfortunately, Hobby shop owners face an uphill climb convincing their personnel and patrons to admit they've made poor investments in their soldered connections and the apparatus that is required to support these connections. It's not their fault, because Powerwerx (the makers of Powerpoles) probably haven't been successful in penetrating the channel of vendors providing RC cars and related vertical markets (LiPo Batteries and ESCs for example).


From what time I'm spent on this forum, I can't qualify anyone as is senseless and stupid, but naive comes to mind and I don't mean that in a negative or condescending sense.


That's exactly what I'm doing. I'm shouting it from the rooftops, which is why I've spent so much time and energy on this post. I've shouted it on some other forums, too. Spread the word!

Even if they were rated for 90-120 like an ec5 or xt90, I can guarantee with 100% certainty that if I used those crimp deals on a truck I jump on the ramp they would come out after a few crashes or even a hard nose landing.... Solder is a strength thing more than a connection quality thing to me....