Damage screw!!! ='( please your help!!

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Rodrigol

Rodrigol

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Arrma RC's
  1. 4x4-Mega
  2. Senton 6s
Has anyone had this problem? any idea how to get it out? the screw is rolled. IF i use a dremel i will damage the chassis.

20210619_025907.jpg
 
Use a dremel cut a line in the middle of the screw , and use a flat screw driver to open it , another option is an round extractor but they don't always work , last option I would use is a 10mm drill bit anti clock wise with pressure , once it's out change the screw to a titanium or ss screw as the heads a stronger
 
Zooby said:
Use a dremel cut a line in the middle of the screw , and use a flat screw driver to open it , another option is an round extractor but they don't always work , last option I would use is a 10mm drill bit anti clock wise with pressure , once it's out change the screw to a titanium or ss screw as the heads a stronger
Click to expand...
I will try with a dremel. Thanks
 
Kingleo619 said:
That aint nothing Like dude above me said 10mm drill bit clockwise best and only way of removing it
Click to expand...
Thanks for your opinion, I will buy a drill bit for metals. I hope these work, I have a steering problem, which does not allow me to use the car
 
I would say that almost everyone at one stage or another ended up with a round countersunk screw like the one in the picture...

All I can suggest is to always use quality tools (not the crap that does come for free with the car) and to clean the screw head as good as possible before inserting the Allen key. With the proper size (small) Dremel cutting disk, you won't damage the chassis, and it does make it very easy to remove damaged screws..
 
I use the one with 8mm to get a nice cone into the screw. Actually I would like it to get loose but mostly won't work. Then I take the one with 7mm diameter and that will dig nicely into the cone and the screw gets loose. Can't remember where I got them. Nothing special. Cheapest around. Basically they grip when you turn your drill left.
Works nicely. Consider going to torx with the chassis screws that you use loctite on.

20210619_105911z.jpg
 
One thing I will say about MIP is my set surprised me the very first use. I had a bulkhead bolt in my 3s that stripped out when tightening it. There was always a tiny gap in the corner. Because this bolt was set inside the chassis, most options were not viable. Not only did the MIP remove the bolt, I had to reuse it in the new chassis and bulkhead and was able to install it tighter than it was before. No gaps. So I'm a believer now. And looking at your bolt, I guarantee an MIP bit will take it out. When bolts strip, it's almost always the surface to halfway in that strips and the innermost section keeps its hex shape. And that's all MIP needs.
 
Be careful with screw extractors as the tend to be brittle too. I’ve snapped a few of them. Make sure you apply heat before trying to use them to soften the TL.
 
Zooby said:
Use a dremel cut a line in the middle of the screw , and use a flat screw driver to open it , another option is an round extractor but they don't always work , last option I would use is a 10mm drill bit anti clock wise with pressure , once it's out change the screw to a titanium or ss screw as the heads a stronger
Click to expand...

Titanium and Stainless steel are not stronger than steel.


The minimum ultimate tensile strength of the Grade 12.9 Metric Hex Head Bolts is about 1242 Mpa or 180,000 PSI, making them the highest grade of bolts produced.

Commercial (99.2% pure) grades of titanium have ultimate tensile strength of about 434 MPa (63,000 psi), equal to that of common, low-grade steel alloys, but are less dense. Titanium is 60% denser than aluminium, but more than twice as strong as the most commonly used 6061-T6 aluminium alloy.


Most every stainless steel screw available for rc is made from Ferritic stainless steel.

  • Ferritic Stainless Steel​

    (Between 15%-18% Chromium) - Ferritic stainless steel has a tensile strength of 65,000 - 87,000 PSI. While it is still corrosion resistant, it is not recommended for areas where corrosion is likely to occur. This material cannot be heat treated. Due to the forming process it is magnetic and not suitable for welding. Ferritic grades of stainless include: 430 and 430F.
  • Below are some of the many bolt grades of stainless steel that we carry.

    • 18-8 Stainless Steel:​

      (18% Chrome, 8% Nickel, .08% Maximum Carbon) - 18-8 Stainless refers to 300 series stainless steel. 303 and 304 Stainless are the most commonly listed grades, the standard grade for stainless fasteners. They are corrosion-resistant and durable. They are often used in marine applications in freshwater environments but will not work as effectively in a salt-water environment as 316 stainless. Stainless alloy resists oxidizing and rusting, however it can tarnish over time. Equivalent to metric A2 Stainless Steel.
 
I have a Dremel 'metal cutting' blade that had worn down to just about the diameter of the screw. It just so happened that I cross-threaded a chassis screw one day. As I pondered the repair scenarios, I felt that using a Dremel blade, at worst, would knick some of the chassis. I could always use some 'liquid steel' and fill in the slight cut later. When I went to get the drill, I discovered that the blade I had on it from my last project was just a bit longer than the screw I had lodged. I made a cut across the head of the screw and I stopped just when the blade reached the chassis. The resulting cut was deep enough in the middle of the screw head for me to use a flat head driver. Came out like a charm.

It was so easy, and my brain had been working so much, that my mind started to wander. I thought to myself, this is more than dentistry than being a grease-nut. I'll bet that dentists have many similar stories, ending up both bad and good. The tooth that wouldn't come out or the bridge that just dropped in fine the first try. I think they should have some kind of certification, like being a "Qualified R/C Technician".
Or, I just attend dentistry school.
slick2500 said:
Titanium and Stainless steel are not stronger than steel.


The minimum ultimate tensile strength of the Grade 12.9 Metric Hex Head Bolts is about 1242 Mpa or 180,000 PSI, making them the highest grade of bolts produced.

Commercial (99.2% pure) grades of titanium have ultimate tensile strength of about 434 MPa (63,000 psi), equal to that of common, low-grade steel alloys, but are less dense. Titanium is 60% denser than aluminium, but more than twice as strong as the most commonly used 6061-T6 aluminium alloy.


Most every stainless steel screw available for rc is made from Ferritic stainless steel.

  • Ferritic Stainless Steel​

    (Between 15%-18% Chromium) - Ferritic stainless steel has a tensile strength of 65,000 - 87,000 PSI. While it is still corrosion resistant, it is not recommended for areas where corrosion is likely to occur. This material cannot be heat treated. Due to the forming process it is magnetic and not suitable for welding. Ferritic grades of stainless include: 430 and 430F.
  • Below are some of the many bolt grades of stainless steel that we carry.

    • 18-8 Stainless Steel:​

      (18% Chrome, 8% Nickel, .08% Maximum Carbon) - 18-8 Stainless refers to 300 series stainless steel. 303 and 304 Stainless are the most commonly listed grades, the standard grade for stainless fasteners. They are corrosion-resistant and durable. They are often used in marine applications in freshwater environments but will not work as effectively in a salt-water environment as 316 stainless. Stainless alloy resists oxidizing and rusting, however it can tarnish over time. Equivalent to metric A2 Stainless Steel.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the science slick2500. But we are more like mechanics than engineers. Interesting stuff. When I did 1/12 scale carpet we switched out all the screws for titanium, for lighter weight, not strength. Good point.

"Dam it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a bricklayer".
 
Last edited:
slick2500 said:
Titanium and Stainless steel are not stronger than steel.


The minimum ultimate tensile strength of the Grade 12.9 Metric Hex Head Bolts is about 1242 Mpa or 180,000 PSI, making them the highest grade of bolts produced.

Commercial (99.2% pure) grades of titanium have ultimate tensile strength of about 434 MPa (63,000 psi), equal to that of common, low-grade steel alloys, but are less dense. Titanium is 60% denser than aluminium, but more than twice as strong as the most commonly used 6061-T6 aluminium alloy.


Most every stainless steel screw available for rc is made from Ferritic stainless steel.

  • Ferritic Stainless Steel​

    (Between 15%-18% Chromium) - Ferritic stainless steel has a tensile strength of 65,000 - 87,000 PSI. While it is still corrosion resistant, it is not recommended for areas where corrosion is likely to occur. This material cannot be heat treated. Due to the forming process it is magnetic and not suitable for welding. Ferritic grades of stainless include: 430 and 430F.
  • Below are some of the many bolt grades of stainless steel that we carry.

    • 18-8 Stainless Steel:​

      (18% Chrome, 8% Nickel, .08% Maximum Carbon) - 18-8 Stainless refers to 300 series stainless steel. 303 and 304 Stainless are the most commonly listed grades, the standard grade for stainless fasteners. They are corrosion-resistant and durable. They are often used in marine applications in freshwater environments but will not work as effectively in a salt-water environment as 316 stainless. Stainless alloy resists oxidizing and rusting, however it can tarnish over time. Equivalent to metric A2 Stainless Steel.
Click to expand...
This is true. If Im not mistaken the main reason ppl use titanium or SS screws is corrosion resistance, not strength.
 
Greywolf74 said:
This is true. If Im not mistaken the main reason ppl use titanium or SS screws is corrosion resistance, not strength.
Click to expand...
And both are lighter as well.
 
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