Notorious I have some work to do....

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Back at it again.

Putting the front center transfer case back together.

Has anyone else ever noticed that the wear pattern on this center gear is on the back third closest to the bearing with a consistent scraped cross mark at 45° up to each tip.

I’m no engineer, but I would think maybe a shim here would be advised as well?

That guess being said, I am already way too much time and money invested just to get it back on the road after only running at two or three times.

I will look at this again in the future and make adjustments at that time if I feel necessary.

the gear starts to wear into a fin instead straight... my notorious gear is fanned out big time but it still runs fine..
 
Working on the rear end.

Rpm arms on, Tekno shock ends on. Diff removed and about to swap the shock tower.
 

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Pile of parts grows larger even as work progresses....

I’ve read where people pound the shock towers flat with a hammer after bending them, and I can’t imagine why they go through all the effort of unscrewing all the bits and pieces when they are simply weakening the metal that already bent the first time.
 

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Through my personal experience all these rigs really need out of the box is some good sealed bearings and rim sealing and tire venting a rear skid and a good rpm front bumper. And a servo and mount when yours decides to blow but if you back out your end points a little they can last a while But you're doing good by learning the ins and outs of your rig not many are willing to do that
 
Well, to even do sealed bearings you need to completely tear the thing down anyway...

But my jump is also pretty big ... so broken parts are to be expected.
 
Well, to even do sealed bearings you need to completely tear the thing down anyway...

But my jump is also pretty big ... so broken parts are to be expected.
Yep that's a mission within itself wish it was easier or wish they came with sealed bearings from the start
 
Rear diff- torn down. Time to clean and add new fluid.
 

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Whoever recommended the naphtha.. worked like a charm.

Poured a little in, shook the parts around for a few seconds and they came out really really clean and it dries pretty much instantly with no residue.

Also doesn’t hurt that I had a quart of it on my workbench already.
 
Problem with the o ring popping out when you push the outdrive shaft in?

Bic pen tube to the rescue!
 

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Having none never done this before, I thought OK well the 30K is the lightest of the fluids I’m putting in so I will just go ahead and see what happens.

Still pretty thick so for the other two diffs I will be heating the bottles in a cup of hot water for many minutes before I fill up them.

Doing 30K in the rear, 60K in the front, and unfortunately everywhere is out of stock on the 200, 300, or 500.

I do not think I want to put 1 million in the center so I am waiting hoping something comes back in stock by the time I get the rest of this car back together.
 
Having none never done this before, I thought OK well the 30K is the lightest of the fluids I’m putting in so I will just go ahead and see what happens.

Still pretty thick so for the other two diffs I will be heating the bottles in a cup of hot water for many minutes before I fill up them.

Doing 30K in the rear, 60K in the front, and unfortunately everywhere is out of stock on the 200, 300, or 500.

I do not think I want to put 1 million in the center so I am waiting hoping something comes back in stock by the time I get the rest of this car back together.
When you do the center dif, try to leave it overnight if you can. 200k might not be too bad, but if you really want to get in around the gears, letting it sit works wonders. I slightly over filled with 500k, so up to the rim with a bit of a bubble in the middle. By morning, I could still add a drop after it settled.
 
Another rookie mistake, waiting for the fluid to drop and then topping off, I got a little out of control and brought it up flush with the housing, forgetting to account for the space the opposing gear will take up.

Rather than tip it and soil the mating surface I pulled the grub screw and will let it slowly drain out the side which is easy to wipe off.
 

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Slowly is the operative word here!

I’ve listen to four songs play and it has barely dripped anything out that hole at all.

Thank God I did this on 30K and not what comes next.
 
Another rookie mistake, waiting for the fluid to drop and then topping off, I got a little out of control and brought it up flush with the housing, forgetting to account for the space the opposing gear will take up.

Rather than tip it and soil the mating surface I pulled the grub screw and will let it slowly drain out the side which is easy to wipe off.
That is a handy little feature that the Arrma difs have. If you wanted to, you could even put fluid in a syringe, and add through the hole when needed.
 
La la La la I am literally still sitting here waiting for the fluid level to drop out the grub hole. Very very very slow even at only 30K.
 
Got it back together and I am about to drop it back into the rear end.

I noticed there was grease on the ring and pinion in the case it fits.

I haven’t dug very deeply but I don’t remember anybody ever talking about this that I have noticed.

Is there any particular grease people are using for this?

Or just stock – and if so does anybody have a part number?
 
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