Opinions on the HPI Vorza Flux HP

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I came across one of these and thinking of making a speed runner out of it. Anyone had any experience with this rig. Looking for pros and cons. Thanks!
 
I came across one of these and thinking of making a speed runner out of it. Anyone had any experience with this rig. Looking for pros and cons. Thanks!
Beast for bashing. Probably the strongest RC I’ve ever owned. If you buy one with the castle system in it you don’t need to swap any electronics for speed running, but they stopped using castle in 2017, the hobbywing replacement is kinda junk for speed runs. Tolerances are decent but you’ll need to tighten up the front end to get rid of the minor slop. Should be an easy 100mph.
 
Great car, but I sold it recently, due to parts availability.
I used the car for bashing, but the previous owner used it for speedruns.

pros:
durable
cons:
quite heavy
parts availability

It had two castle cap packs attached to the stock esc and an 29t pinion. They claimed it did 80+ mph
 
It’s got the castle electronics in it. Looks to be in pretty good shape with a few upgrades on it. I picked it up last night along with a Typhon 6S V3 . Both were used for speed runs. Going to turn one into a basher and use the other for speed runs.. Which would be better for speed runs?
 
It’s got the castle electronics in it. Looks to be in pretty good shape with a few upgrades on it. I picked it up last night along with a Typhon 6S V3 . Both were used for speed runs. Going to turn one into a basher and use the other for speed runs.. Which would be better for speed runs?
Just my two cents, the Typhon will be easier to find hop up parts for today for speed runs. I don’t know anything about the HPI but I do know you can get a Typhon over 130mph.
 
What upgrades would be needed to get the typhon to hit 130 mph ?
First thing would be ESC, spool, and @PPS-RC motor mount. Obviously some GRP tires. Trim the rear wing as flat as possible. And drive it. I would start around 27/39 gearing on 6S and go up from there. Make sure it run straight at 100 before pushing it much further.

Not exactly sure how fast you can push the stock motor, but with an MMX8S I would think you’re in the 130 range. You’re going to need 8S power. At some point you’ll want a better motor. TP4050 would be my choice. Then you’ll want a more aerodynamic body. Speak to @LibertyMKiii ?
 
I figured it would need a 8S power plant to reach the 130 mark.... Right now Im just wanting to get my feet wet and see if I like the speed runners. I would like use the 6S power plant for now. I’d be happy in the 100 mph club. I’m more of a basher than a speed demon... But, I just really want to learn about (speed) this side of the hobby. Thanks for all the advice guys!! What about the diffs.... Whats the magic recipe for oil weights? I’m going to open those when I do a full bearing change .
 
I figured it would need a 8S power plant to reach the 130 mark.... Right now Im just wanting to get my feet wet and see if I like the speed runners. I would like use the 6S power plant for now. I’d be happy in the 100 mph club. I’m more of a basher than a speed demon... But, I just really want to learn about (speed) this side of the hobby. Thanks for all the advice guys!! What about the diffs.... Whats the magic recipe for oil weights? I’m going to open those when I do a full bearing change .
As thick as possible on the diffs. We don’t turn under power.
 
Great car, but I sold it recently, due to parts availability.
I used the car for bashing, but the previous owner used it for speedruns.

pros:
durable
cons:
quite heavy
parts availability


It had two castle cap packs attached to the stock esc and an 29t pinion. They claimed it did 80+ mph

Yup she's a pig, but can still fly through the air.

Currently the only parts I cannot find are the rear body mount, the body and the wing. Some of the individual diff parts or the gearbox cases are rather difficult to find(supposedly you can run the newer style HB Racing gearboxes, but you also need to change out to the newer style output pinion and run larger bearings) jennys has/had a few complete gearboxes with diffs a few days ago. Jennys still has quite a bit of stuff for the Vorza.
The following vehicles also share a lot of parts with the Vorza.
Hot Bodies D8, the front of the vehicle including the front chassis brace, front center driveshaft, steering rack, the center diff and rear of the vehicle, the rear chassis brace doesn't fit and Idk if the rear center driveshaft fits or not.
Hot Bodies D8S rtr nitro version of the D8
Hot Bodies D8T the truggy to the D8. Rear shocks are longer you will need the high mount shock tower however I bought the last one I could find in the US.
HPI Apache C1 gearboxes hubs and caster blocks from what I remember. A clone of these used to be sold by King Motors called the Explorer.
HPI Trophy Buggy and Truggy gearboxes and the diffs are sort of the same, they use stainless gears instead of normal steel.
And I know I am forgetting at least 1 more.

I currently have my eye on a used D8 roller with a Tekno chassis that I found an ad for. He has a bunch of spare parts too.
 
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You don't need that much upgrades on the Vorza, everything is already 7075 and the a-arms aluminum braces are the most beefy you can find on a rc car.

Great! Now where can you find a spool, shorter shocks, towers, side lipo trays, larger motor mount, etc?
 
Vorza is good and proven, but like @jondilly1974 is mentioning you will need some parts and it is hard to beat the parts availability of the Arrma Typhon 6s.

I used the stock blx2050kv motor with a MMX8s on 8s power and got 119 MPH out of it at only 94% throttle (ran out of road). I know it had quite a bit more in it. I would estimate around 130-145 mph.
Capture.JPG
 
Great! Now where can you find a spool, shorter shocks, towers, side lipo trays, larger motor mount, etc?

Watch at the end of the video, the Vorza is almost in stock condition. Stock motor mount, stock center diff., stock battery tray, stock rear shock (the vorza has pretty short shock absorbers), but he mainly changed the front by removing the front shock absorbers. To lower down your chassis you can adjust the droop screws like on any 1/8 buggy.

This one for example, 120mph capable, almost stock also, expected the eletronic obviously :
Leopard1.jpg


The vorza is really a very capable buggy. His main problem is his weight, but it is heavy because he has a 4mm 7075 chassis and pretty beefy a-arms braces and shock tower. The diff. have helical crown gear which are more strong than the typhon diff.. The gears inside the diff. are also more strong than the typhon ones, the HPI diff. case is bigger than on any arrma. I really like my arrmas, but in comparison the Vorza is a true tank out of the box, excepted the rear shocks, you don't really need to upgrade this or that, everything is strong on this buggy. Since i have a Tekno eb48.3 and a Vorza i'm really not interested to get a Typhon.

But yes, spares are a little bit more hard to find, but you can find them. But as it is a pretty durable car, and if it is for doing speed run, it will be really durable.
 
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Watch at the end of the video, the Vorza is almost in stock condition. Stock motor mount, stock center diff., stock battery tray, stock rear shock (the vorza has pretty short shock absorbers), but he mainly changed the front by removing the front shock absorbers. To lower down your chassis you can adjust the droop screws like on any 1/8 buggy.

This one for example, 120mph capable, almost stock also, expected the eletronic obviously :
View attachment 102683

The vorza is really a very capable buggy. His main problem is his weight, but it is heavy because he has a 4mm 7075 chassis and pretty beefy a-arms braces and shock tower. The diff. have helical crown gear which are more strong than the typhon diff.. The gears inside the diff. are also more strong than the typhon ones, the HPI diff. case is bigger than on any arrma.

But yes, spares are a little bit more hard to find, but you can find them. But as it is a pretty durable car, and if it is for doing speed run, it will be really durable.
That’s all good, but where can I get replacement parts? Part of speed runs is crashes along the way. I’m not doubting the car can be fast, I’m just saying if I’m picking one of the two, I would be picking the one still being made and the most popular one.
 
That’s all good, but where can I get replacement parts? Part of speed runs is crashes along the way. I’m not doubting the car can be fast, I’m just saying if I’m picking one of the two, I would be picking the one still being made and the most popular one.

I recently helped a guy who needed adivses about a brand new in box vorza for 300€ (a second hand great deal). Everybody agreed about his durability. He bought it and asked me which spares to buy, me and him were able to find any parts which can eventually break. I even bought some more for mine, the 4 a-arms with the tie-rods for less than 30€ shipped. For me, it isn't a real problem to find spares for this chassis.

When i have to buy spares for my Arrmas, it often happens that i buy them from overseas.
 
Watch at the end of the video, the Vorza is almost in stock condition. Stock motor mount, stock center diff., stock battery tray, stock rear shock (the vorza has pretty short shock absorbers), but he mainly changed the front by removing the front shock absorbers. To lower down your chassis you can adjust the droop screws like on any 1/8 buggy.

This one for example, 120mph capable, almost stock also, expected the eletronic obviously :
View attachment 102683

The vorza is really a very capable buggy. His main problem is his weight, but it is heavy because he has a 4mm 7075 chassis and pretty beefy a-arms braces and shock tower. The diff. have helical crown gear which are more strong than the typhon diff.. The gears inside the diff. are also more strong than the typhon ones, the HPI diff. case is bigger than on any arrma. I really like my arrmas, but in comparison the Vorza is a true tank out of the box, excepted the rear shocks, you don't really need to upgrade this or that, everything is strong on this buggy. Since i have a Tekno eb48.3 and a Vorza i'm really not interested to get a Typhon.

But yes, spares are a little bit more hard to find, but you can find them. But as it is a pretty durable car, and if it is for doing speed run, it will be really durable.

Vorza diff on the left, Arrma on the right.
20200203_203402.jpg




Arrma on the top, Vorza on the bottom. The Arrma pins look so puny compared to the Hot Bodies ones.
1sehzY0.jpg


I recently helped a guy who needed adivses about a brand new in box vorza for 300€ (a second hand great deal). Everybody agreed about his durability. He bought it and asked me which spares to buy, me and him were able to find any parts which can eventually break. I even bought some more for mine, the 4 a-arms with the tie-rods for less than 30€ shipped. For me, it isn't a real problem to find spares for this chassis.

When i have to buy spares for my Arrmas, it often happens that i buy them from overseas.

Like I mentioned above the only parts I haven't been able to find are the rear body post, body and wing.
 
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