Kraton Razor RC Kraton 4x4 4S

[jym73]

When Arrma released the first 4x4 mega serie i thought "Arrma has made a plastic chassis the most cheap to make, and they follow TRX business with plastic CVD". When i saw the 3s BLX performance, after have read all the issues from those who have tempted to use the mega on 3s, i have been more tempted and finally bought the BRCC. When i got the BRCC, i was a little bit surprised to see plastic balls on all the tie rods, wow, that's really designed to be cheap. I'm pretty happy with the BRCC, even if it isn't wide enough and need to be widen, but i still don't like the plastic CVD. The slipper access isn't easy and the slipper adjustement itself isn't so easy too.

When i see the 4s line issues, i think that 3s is the good spot for these chassis. But Arrma has pushed too far the concept, like TRX did with their 20 year old chassis, iniitally built to be used with brushed motor and now sell them with brushless system.

Imo, Arrma isn't perfect and did some mistakes. Like the last 2WD chassis, also built to be very cheap to made, they didn't last long, as for the durability and on the market.

I first like Arrma for the 6s line, but all they did arround are more questionable, imho.

 

[jondilly1974]

I suppose a 20feet nose dive. Yesterday i saw a maxx land on the nose a 10 or maybe less nsoe landing and the batery flew off and baterry tray completly broke off
And your tower brace is backwards i think
Yeah it is

Yep it was on backwards. Don’t think it would have saved the chassis and tower had it been the right way, but I will put it back on the right way when I tear it down this time. I’m going to go heavy on diff fluid this time and see if I can get these diffs from shifting all the power to one side, which makes it spin out at high throttle.

 

[Surchaufeur]

When Arrma released the first 4x4 mega serie i thought "Arrma has made a plastic chassis the most cheap to make, and they follow TRX business with plastic CVD". When i saw the 3s BLX performance, after have read all the issues from those who have tempted to use the mega on 3s, i have been more tempted and finally bought the BRCC. When i got the BRCC, i was a little bit surprised to see plastic balls on all the tie rods, wow, that's really design to be cheap. I'm pretty happy with the BRCC, even if it isn't wide enough and need to be widen, but i still don't like the plastic CVD. The slipper access isn't easy and the slipper adjustement itself isn't so easy too.

When i see the 4s line issues, i think that 3s is the good spot for these chassis. But Arrma has pushed too far the concept, like TRX did with their 20 year old chassis, iniitally built to be used with brushed motor and now sell them with brushless system.

Imo, Arrma isn't perfect and did some mistakes. Like the last 2WD chassis, also built to be very cheap to made, they didn't last long, as for the durability and on the market.

I first like Arrma for the 6s line, but all they did arround are more questionnable, imho.

I hope they make a new chassi to make the 3-4s line more tough. But i like that they don't act like traxxas tho like they don't offer alluminum pivot balls or metal hubs when they know sometimes its going to be a weakpoint. While traxxas when they release a new car they know the weaknesses and imedietly offer overpriced upgrades for the car

Yep it was on backwards. Don’t think it would have saved the chassis and tower had it been the right way, but I will put it back on the right way when I tear it down this time. I’m going to go heavy on diff fluid this time and see if I can get these diffs from shifting all the power to one side, which makes it spin out at high throttle.

Give me your news dude want to see if the car handles better with your diff tune
Nothing who has a plastic chassi will survive a 20ft nose landing 90 degress on the ground even the xmaxx. Maybe im wrong

When Arrma released the first 4x4 mega serie i thought "Arrma has made a plastic chassis the most cheap to make, and they follow TRX business with plastic CVD". When i saw the 3s BLX performance, after have read all the issues from those who have tempted to use the mega on 3s, i have been more tempted and finally bought the BRCC. When i got the BRCC, i was a little bit surprised to see plastic balls on all the tie rods, wow, that's really designed to be cheap. I'm pretty happy with the BRCC, even if it isn't wide enough and need to be widen, but i still don't like the plastic CVD. The slipper access isn't easy and the slipper adjustement itself isn't so easy too.

When i see the 4s line issues, i think that 3s is the good spot for these chassis. But Arrma has pushed too far the concept, like TRX did with their 20 year old chassis, iniitally built to be used with brushed motor and now sell them with brushless system.

Imo, Arrma isn't perfect and did some mistakes. Like the last 2WD chassis, also built to be very cheap to made, they didn't last long, as for the durability and on the market.

I first like Arrma for the 6s line, but all they did arround are more questionable, imho.

If i could trade m modified kraton 4s for a new kraton v4 blue i will do it. I realise now that i always want to improve my car when i cant anymore. And more durability

 

[jym73]

I hope they make a new chassi to make the 3-4s line more tough. But i like that they don't act like traxxas tho like they don't offer alluminum pivot balls or metal hubs when they know sometimes its going to be a weakpoint. While traxxas when they release a new car they know the weaknesses and imedietly offer overpriced upgrades for the car

Yes, that's true for the 6s line, there isn't that much upgrade from Arrma. But for the 3s line, we saw expensive arrma cvd upgrade popped on tower hobbies (even if they are still not really available) and not too far after these chassis have been released. Maybe in the futur, with the new owner, horizon hobby, we will see Arrma changing of market business, i don't know...But maybe Arrma will release a stronger V2 version for the 3s/4s line, and that would be very cool.

But something i would like to see Arrma put on the market is their own 7075 aluminum parts. They would surely be cheaper if they are made in large series. I still wait to receive my 7075 chassis for my Kraton (even if i haven't bent the chassis yet ^^ ), but i bought for it 100$ shipped and made in germany. The 7075 parts are only usefull for those who do really hard bashing, the stock aluminum chassis is strong enough to do good bashing though.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Yes, that's true for the 6s line, there isn't that much upgrade from Arrma. But for the 3s line, we saw expensive arrma cvd upgrade popped on tower hobbies (even if they are still not really available) and not too far after these chassis have been released. Maybe in the futur, with the new owner, horizon hobby, we will see Arrma changing of market business, i don't know...But maybe Arrma will release a stronger V2 version for the 3s/4s line, and that would be very cool.

But something i would like to see Arrma put on the market is their own 7075 aluminum parts. They would surely be cheaper if they are made in large series. I still wait to receive my 7075 chassis for my Kraton (even if i haven't bent the chassis yet ^^ ), but i bought for it 100$ shipped and made in germany. The 7075 parts are only usefull for those who do really hard bashing, the stock aluminum chassis is strong enough to do good bashing though.

So far my driveshafts are doing great migth have damaged the rear a little bit because i was running with a slipper way too tight for a while

 

[jym73]

So far my driveshafts are doing great migth have damaged the rear a little bit because i was running with a slipper way too tight for a while

Yes, and here is the problem, the slipper isn't so easy to adjust. It is same on the Hobao Hyper MT, with 1/8 turn, the slipper slip too much or is too tight, and the slipper accessibility is way more easy on the Hobao.

I don't have real issue so far on my BRCC cvd but i already see that the plasitc starting to wear out, faster than with metal shaft. Same issue with TRX i would say, same with ECX also, i'm really not a fan of plastic drive shaft. I don't really like to have to think about this kind of things.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Yes, and here is the problem, the slipper isn't so easy to adjust. It is same on the Hobao Hyper MT, with 1/8 turn, the slipper slip too much or is too tight, and the slipper accessibility is way more easy on the Hobao.

I don't have real issue so far on my BRCC cvd but i already see that the plasitc starting to wear out, faster than with metal shaft. Same issue with TRX i would say, same with ECX also, i'm really not a fan of plastic drive shaft. I don't really like to have to think about this kind of things.

The holes of the driveshafts are a lottle bit stretched at the back but nothing major that will make it pop out. And for the clutch in my side is easy to adjust i had the slipper always loosen issue so i dealed a lot with that thing. Now i use the sliper front hub holes to know when i do a full turn or a 1/2 turn when loosening the clutch and i use red locktite no more issues. And i put my scredriver into the hole of the clutch and tighten or loosen 0.25 each time until i get the spot on the field
Idk about the 3s clutch system maybe its differant but they use the same springs and hubs

 

[razorrc]

I'll be honest, I find the center driveshaft super annoying to remove, to the point that I swing up the chassis brace before removing, and I've broken that stupid center bearing holder. There's also a bunch of stupid sharp edges around it (heatsink, sideguards, bearing holder) that dig into my hands when I am fiddling with it.

 

[Surchaufeur]

I'll be honest, I find the center driveshaft super annoying to remove, to the point that I swing up the chassis brace before removing, and I've broken that stupid center bearing holder. There's also a bunch of stupid sharp edges around it (heatsink, sideguards, bearing holder) that dig into my hands when I am fiddling with it.

Weird takes me seconds to remove it.
At least its easily accesible other cars you have to completly strip the car down in half to get to it

 

[colbynobo]

I'll be honest, I find the center driveshaft super annoying to remove, to the point that I swing up the chassis brace before removing, and I've broken that stupid center bearing holder. There's also a bunch of stupid sharp edges around it (heatsink, sideguards, bearing holder) that dig into my hands when I am fiddling with it.

Forgive me for waving the Razorrc flag...but once again you have spoken exactly of my experience. After watching videos of people effortlessly removing that center drive shaft, I find myself flipping the chassis around, tugging, pulling and finally having to resort to using a small screwdriver to pry the thing off the front input gear shaft. Ditto on the broken center bearing holder. I've been assuming it's because everyone else's dirt is more generous than my Colorado dirt. I recognize that every vehicle has its challenges and if that means I have to pry things off and use a rubber mallet more than the next person, then so be it. It's just nice to know that I'm not alone.

 

[jondilly1974]

I’ve broken a few of the center driveshaft bearing holder myself. I have done the driveshaft removal so many times that it’s pretty easy for me. The power module removal is tough at first too. But it’s not so bad now.

Now my real nemesis is the servo arm connection to the steering rack. I fight with that more than most other parts.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Was painting the letters of my tires and i found a deep cut? Hope super glue fixes that

 

[jondilly1974]

Was painting the letters of my tires and i found a deep cut? Hope super glue fixes thatView attachment 53139

Gorilla glue it and should be fine. Just don’t overdo the glue and add too much weight.

 

[Surchaufeur]

Gorilla glue it and should be fine. Just don’t overdo the glue and add too much weight.

I have gorilla glue and its so dam thick i used the superglue the one i used to glue the tire who is super thin

 

[bicketybam]

Go to 11:58. Other than the busted center brace and a tweaked rear turnbuckle, it handled those jumps well. Worth noting I landed on asphalt every time.

 

[razorrc]

Go to 11:58. Other than the busted center brace and a tweaked rear turnbuckle, it handled those jumps well. Worth noting I landed on asphalt every time.

OK cool, but what are you trying to show us here? That you're mad the chassis brace broke?

 

[jym73]

What i see in this video are :

- The chassis slap a lot and make an awesome noise, pretty impressive.
- The control in the air seems good.
- Excepted the chassis brace, it seems to held big jump when landing on asphalt.
- And yes, he isn't happy about the chassis brace

What was the issues on about the stripped diff.? The bearings or the diff. yoke?

 

[bicketybam]

OK cool, but what are you trying to show us here? That you're mad the chassis brace broke?

No. That this statement is false.

Not sure if y’all saw my carnage in the What Did You Break Today thread, but I managed to break my Kraton pretty well yesterday doing 20ft launches at the skate park. I will say that these plastic chassis rigs aren’t made for that type of launches unless you perfectly land every single jump. If you’re bashing like Rich and Eric, they won’t hold up. These are designed for more subtle bashing.

I jump it a lot farther than 20 feet and it's not what I would call "subtle bashing." ?

 

[razorrc]

No. That this statement is false.

OK, there are like 5 different conversations in here so I think what you're referring to is jondilly/jym saying that the chassis is weak.

I mean, it's not flimsy, it's not indestructible -- it's a plastic chassis. It can definitely break if you land it the wrong way, I broke my Granite chassis on 2S.

 

[jondilly1974]

No. That this statement is false.



I jump it a lot farther than 20 feet and it's not what I would call "subtle bashing." ?

And you broke it ... ??‍