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It's in the "If you have to ask you can't afford it" region. I told the wife I would sell one of my other toys.You have been very through with this build thread. Approximately how much did this all cost?
I tapped out the 2 holes in the chassis to 4mm (didn’t even need to drill) and installed short 4mm countersunk screws. Worked great for me.Thanks Jordan - that brings me to M2C 3125 front hinge pin support system
Review: Love the piece, but hate you cannot remove the diff cover and there is no good solution for rear screws. (CORRECTION! I think we have found the solution to the rear screws, waiting on the parts now). Definitely a significant strength upgrade at little to no weight increase - especially if you can't get all the screws back in!
Fitment: This is where I started having some trouble. I'm surprised I can't find more pictures on this one, I must have been frustrated. There was a weight savings, and a strength increase. However, you lose a bit of convenience as you can no longer remove your diff cover without first removing the front blocks AKA first you must remove the entire front end to get the diff cover off. Also, one of the plastic pieces needed significant modification to fit, its a shell of its former self... oh well, the 5mm of 7075 T6 will have to make up for the loss of much of the plastic bumper block. Lastly, the rear screws that hold the bumper cover to the chassis...don't fit well. The rear hinge pins interfere with the use of a nut on the chassis side, there is no longer plastic to screw it with the original pieces removed. I tried to use a long screw and a lock nut, but it was too micky mouse for this build. I have resorted to zap-strapping it, which break every run. Not please about this, almost willing to chuck the upgrade away. However, the added strength is significant, I really want to use these parts, and I can live with the diff cover hassle. But I need to solve the rear fastener issue.
Caution Recommended- Possible solution found!
m2c 3510 ARRMA 6S CAPTURED 1 PIECE HINGE PINS
Thanks Jordan10R
Parts have been ordered!
Part you will need to modify:
View attachment 182029
Fitment Detail:
View attachment 182026View attachment 182025View attachment 182027View attachment 182028
I tapped out the 2 holes in the chassis to 4mm (didn’t even need to drill) and installed short 4mm countersunk screws. Worked great for me.
@21STalion
Thank you for the links. The servo does require more amperage than many ESC’s and their BEC’s can muster but then again I’ve learned that a BEC (battery eliminator circuit) is a cheap switching device meant to reduce the batteries voltage for the servos to work but the voltage they produce is not a clean DC current. I’m going to try their BEC bypass harness that taps directly off the battery so there will be no limited amperage or voltage from a BEC and it will be 7.4 volts, not a weak 6 volts. The item I purchased is the BEC-bypass-JST-XH2 - HV2SV-J and I also got it from the same guy listed here. https://www.promodeler.com/extensions The direct link is here, https://www.promodeler.com/HV2SV-J He also sells separate small 7.4 volt battery packs to run your servos but I know you’re concerned about weight.
Here is some more good articles for you to read.
https://www.promodeler.com/askJohn/The-case-against-synthetic-voltage
https://www.promodeler.com/askJohn/BEC-or-dedicated-pack
https://www.promodeler.com/askJohn/talkRADIO/about-RC-servo-motors
https://www.promodeler.com/askJohn/Bypassing-the-BEC
https://www.promodeler.com/askJohn/about-pots-vs-Hall-Effect-sensors
Enjoy, there is a lot of good information here.
Very nice build.
Do you plan on keeping the T2T brace? I personnally think it is overkill with the M2C chassis, chassis brace and shock tower brace. I removed it on my Kraton. I like not having to deal with it when I have to wrench on the RC.
My apologies if I've created confusion, I'm referring to stock 2021 Outcast 6s EXB Backflips compared to stock 2021 Talion EXB Katars. Massively different sizes.I use backflips lps (used, now they are broken) on my talion, I love those tires. They are about the same size as stock (+0.05in if I am correct) and they improve the handling by a huge amount.
Totally, i have a seperate set of wheels and tires on order for performance. I think 1 belted Badland wheel weighs as much as all 4 Racing wheelsExcellent thread with great detail.
Regarding using the Backflips, I was so happy with the way my 21 Talion EXB handles and jumps, I took the Backflips off of my circus performer flip/jump/tumble/wheelie happy Outcast and put a set of Katars (the unbelted version) from the Talion on it, now really enjoy driving it on track. The Talion is still my favorite.
I suspect you'll be going back to Katars (or at least Katar sized) rather than the adjustments and modifications to make the big tires work well. The bigger tires are not track+speed+steering friendly in my opinion. Jumps, appearance, break more parts, and ground clearance yes.
My apologies if I've created confusion, I'm referring to stock 2021 Outcast 6s EXB Backflips compared to stock 2021 Talion EXB Katars. Massively different sizes.View attachment 185620View attachment 185621
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