Kraton Track Kraton Build for Racing

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hi, very nice build 👍and thank you for all info. i want to do same with my k6s...i will buy another 3difs and fill it with proper dif oil for racing and other 3difs ready for bashing...so when i want to race i would put diffs filled with oil for racing setup and put some truggy racing tires on it. My goal is to have my k6s for bashing and for racing...setup all in one 😎

Any new update, or any changes so far?

This is a body which i want to buy
Screenshot_20210217-214227_Chrome.jpg


And here is a tires

https://www.eurorc.co.uk/product/7385/louise-t-pirate-18-truggy-tires---12-offset-white-rim---soft-2
 
Last edited:
Hi, very nice build 👍and thank you for all info. i want to do same with my k6s...i will buy another 3difs and fill it with proper dif oil for racing and other 3difs ready for bashing...so when i want to race i would put diffs filled with oil for racing setup and put some truggy racing tires on it. My goal is to have my k6s for bashing and for racing...setup all in one 😎

Any new update, or any changes so far?

This is a body which i want to buy
View attachment 127195

And here is a tires

https://www.eurorc.co.uk/product/7385/louise-t-pirate-18-truggy-tires---12-offset-white-rim---soft-2
That sounds exciting, you'll love the extra control you get, once you lighten everything the handling improves so much. That body is really nice, what motor and esc are you going to run?

I use a sensored HobbyWing combo, it really is great to drive.

I use Proline Racing truggy tyres, they really are good on track.
 
20190822_071415.jpg


20190822_071400.jpg


This is the xerun xr8 plus and 4268sd 2200kv system I run, if you're going to be using it for bashing, be aware it's not waterproof. Also for bashing it might be better to go to the larger can, the 4274sd 2050kv.
 
Last edited:
I will say the 4268 for its size is a beast in my Kraton, originally I wanted to upgrade it, but its just fine apparently. Got the combo brand new for $130 and thats pretty cool it powers one of these that well. Heck used id say $80 to $100 for the combo used. Steal.

20210128_230108.jpg
 
That sounds exciting, you'll love the extra control you get, once you lighten everything the handling improves so much. That body is really nice, what motor and esc are you going to run?

I use a sensored HobbyWing combo, it really is great to drive.

I use Proline Racing truggy tyres, they really are good on track.

thanks. i intend to keep a stock of electronics except the servo motor of course. oil in difs 7000 10000 3000,

I will keep 60wt of oil in the shock absorbers because I want to have, as I said, ready for both bash and race 😃

i will test this setup this weekend 🤞
 
thanks. i intend to keep a stock of electronics except the servo motor of course. oil in difs 7000 10000 3000,

I will keep 60wt of oil in the shock absorbers because I want to have, as I said, ready for both bash and race 😃

i will test this setup this weekend 🤞
Can't wait to hear about your results, I hope you have a great weekend.
 
Any updates, how did you go?
Hi sorry for late reply.
GOPR0971_1614532904399.JPG
Today I passed the first test kraton 2 in one (bash & race) so I only replace difs
20210228_103745.jpg
for bash I have the other 3 difs for the race, tires, and body for the race, which is the last puzzle in this puzzl... I soon buy ... as car I can say that I am very excited about how it rides 😃

and even buggy sworkz look me in my k6ass 😁

Race settings
Front diff: 7000cst
Center dif: 10000cst
Last diff: 3000cst

Shocks same as for bash: 800cst

I hope you had great weekend too 🍻
 
Hi sorry for late reply.View attachment 129198 Today I passed the first test kraton 2 in one (bash & race) so I only replace difsView attachment 129199 for bash I have the other 3 difs for the race, tires, and body for the race, which is the last puzzle in this puzzl... I soon buy ... as car I can say that I am very excited about how it rides 😃

and even buggy sworkz look me in my k6ass 😁

Race settings
Front diff: 7000cst
Center dif: 10000cst
Last diff: 3000cst

Shocks same as for bash: 800cst

I hope you had great weekend too 🍻
Well done glad you enjoyed it out there.
 
I'm glad I found this thread because I'm planning to retire my old warrior (Hobabo Hyper ST) truggy and I was searching for a valid alternative!
I already own a Kraton 6S EXB and I love it so I'm thinking to buy another one, swap the electronics and tires from the old truggy and create fear in the track!
 
I'm glad I found this thread because I'm planning to retire my old warrior (Hobabo Hyper ST) truggy and I was searching for a valid alternative!
I already own a Kraton 6S EXB and I love it so I'm thinking to buy another one, swap the electronics and tires from the old truggy and create fear in the track!
Sounds perfect, the real key is keeping it light, these are a fun truggy to drive on the track, it really does well for an rtr, the exb would be such a good starting platform. I hope it works out really well for you. Please keep me up to date with your progress.
 
Looks good, I think you could soften the springs as well.
 
Yesterday I was comparing my Kraton EXB with my Hyper ST Pro (electric conversion) and I noticed a huge difference in weight: the Hyper ST is 1kg or more lighter.
Is a rtr kraton lighter than an exb one?
 
Yesterday I was comparing my Kraton EXB with my Hyper ST Pro (electric conversion) and I noticed a huge difference in weight: the Hyper ST is 1kg or more lighter.
Is a rtr kraton lighter than an exb one?
I think it would be, but you then have to run all the plastic parts instead of upgrades, I don't run a center brace and I've removed all the extra bits that aren't really necessary. It will not be as light as a race kit, but when I built this it was a lot cheaper.
 
I think it would be, but you then have to run all the plastic parts instead of upgrades, I don't run a center brace and I've removed all the extra bits that aren't really necessary. It will not be as light as a race kit, but when I built this it was a lot cheaper.
Lot cheaper and more sturdy for sure!

I'm every time more inclined to buy an EXB and, as you did, remove all the unnecessary parts.

I will use a 1700kv 4084 motor with a QuicRun 150A and 6s lipo
 
Lot cheaper and more sturdy for sure!

I'm every time more inclined to buy an EXB and, as you did, remove all the unnecessary parts.

I will use a 1700kv 4084 motor with a QuicRun 150A and 6s lipo
Yeah that size motor sounds good, I run mine on 4s and if the fan stops working I can get into trouble if I'm really pushing it. I think I should have gone with the 4274sd 2050kv? It is a beautiful set-up to run with power coming on so smoothly. I've got a Nitro TLR 8t and it drives really well, but I still enjoy the Arrma just as much. In a way it's even better to think that this car was made from spare parts I had.
 
Yeah that size motor sounds good, I run mine on 4s and if the fan stops working I can get into trouble if I'm really pushing it. I think I should have gone with the 4274sd 2050kv? It is a beautiful set-up to run with power coming on so smoothly. I've got a tlr 8t and it drives really well, but I can still enjoy the Arrma just as much.
I'm very careful regarding temps and usually try various combinations of motors/pinions/S and my conclusions are
- buggy and truggy with low/medium weight, 2150kv to 2250kv motor and 4s 5000mAh lipo
- monster or "fat" truggy, 1600kv to 1700kv motors and 6s 3000mAh lipo

With that simplified combination I'm able to achieve quite the same runtime.
 
I'm very careful regarding temps and usually try various combinations of motors/pinions/S and my conclusions are
- buggy and truggy with low/medium weight, 2150kv to 2250kv motor and 4s 5000mAh lipo
- monster or "fat" truggy, 1600kv to 1700kv motors and 6s 3000mAh lipo

With that simplified combination I'm able to achieve quite the same runtime.
Sounds like the perfect combo for each vehicle. I am going to rebuild my typhon as a track car next I might move my motor over to it and get a slightly bigger one on the Kraton. Thanks for the tips.
 
Sounds like the perfect combo for each vehicle. I am going to rebuild my typhon as a track car next I might move my motor over to it and get a slightly bigger one on the Kraton. Thanks for the tips.
On the Kraton I suggest you a motor 4074 or 4082 maximum because of the weight and the absorption (which means heat):

- a 4074 is usually a 2700 Watt motor which means 160A at 4s or 108A at 6s, 380 gr of weight
- a 4082 is usually a 3500 Watt motor which means 208A at 4s or 139A at 6s, 485 gr of weight

these values can change a bit due to the manufacturing process quality but not so much!

I don't know the race tracks in Australia (you have a lot of space! ;-) ) but here in Europe we don't achieve very high speeds so I usually keep short pinions, 12 - 14 tooths.
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top