Typhon Typhon 6S+ (1/7.5): My attempt at a reliable dirt track buggy

[autolex]

Hello All!

I have a Typhon 3S that's been stretched and repowered and such for the asphalt.
I'm a middle aged dude with kids, but being in saint louis and having the Dirtburners track local to me I decided to pull the trigger on a second Typhon so we could all play.

Current Pic for Interest: build process below

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The August Horizon Hobby sale had the 6S V5 Typhon for $399 and I just couldn't pass it up!

So far things i've done for reliability/ease of use include:

Arrma rear control arm guards
M2C Chassis Braces
M2C Drill-through Shock Mount Bolts
RC 3D wing mount
PPS Motor Mount/Diff Brace
Hot Racing Battery Tray
Refilled diffs with 30k/100k/30k
40mm fan on HR 40mm Sink for OE motor
Dboots EXABYTES from the TLRT
FastEddy Bearing Kit
Single EC5 converted (all my 6S battery setups are single pack, I'm a big fan of simplicity)

I went ahead and ordered some mojave arms and shafts, I'd like to make it just about an inch wider (so we'll call this a 1/7.5ish typhon?)

(Kraton parts there are for the Street XLWB car, needed some hardware.)

What all else should I do for reliability? How does everyone feel about the M2C Pillar Delrin Kit?

 

[Cheez]

Truggy!

 

[fish]

I like the build. Love that PPS Motor Mount.

I tried the T6S first with Kraton Hubs/hexes for a bit more width. Then with Kraton Arms, but was too square. Went to the LWB chassis and it was better but then went to the XLWB chassis and its perfect for bashing fields and running fast, 18t pinion.

I also have a T6S with Typhon arms and LWB Kraton EXB chassis which handles well, better then the SWB Typhon Chassis. I'll likely try the Mohave Arms and shafts on that build for the extra width BUT maybe not, the ration of length to width is really nice for pavement and dirt. 20t pinion.

But im trying to keep the weight down and the stock Arrma EXB and plastic parts have held up well and are light.
Ive done some stupid stuff with these cars and carnage has ben minimal.

 

[autolex]

...I'm trying to keep the weight down and the stock Arrma EXB and plastic parts have held up well and are light.
I've done some stupid stuff with these cars and carnage has been minimal...

FISH! Your builds are one of my largest inspirations!

I can appreciate the scale of yours (and what you use them for): I just don't want to go quite that large honestly. I think keeping it as light as I can (just adding a bit more width) for reliability makes the most sense, especially considering dirt tracks will be largely where it lives.

As you stated: I'd like to keep as many "consumables" (axles/arms, bearings, steering rod) stock/another-stock-part as is possible.

On the Kraton Parts: changing outdrive sizes but not arms definitely changes leverage on the control arms. I haven't done the motion calculations yet, but adding a spacer on the outdrive (or lengthening it) changes the Ackermann, camber curve speed, dave point (google it) and a ton of other stuff (similar to adding like a 1 FOOT spacer on your car)

I want to keep that buggy capability (even expand on it) by lengthening arms, possibly going down in spring weight (but up in length and shock oil weight) while keeping similar motion ratios as stock (if that makes sense?).

I do have a set of rear mojave shocks already, if I get into weights and tuning and cant get shock OAL right I may use those and order some mojave fronts too...

Just for clarity sake: this starting point is a 328mm V5 6S BLX chassis (SWB), so widening it about 20mm makes it drive more like a very short Mojave than a kraton/talion i'd guess (see above on kraton parts: no axle outdrive spacers, length/width ratio is closer). Though a LWB Chassis/Driveshaft set may be in the future if I cant make this work the way I want (still mojave arms, I want it to still drive like a typhon!)... Hence the "1/7.5" name.

I feel like the hardening in the drivetrain that I've done so far is reasonable, but thinking about M2C Delrin Pillar Ball parts? What consumables are you going through @fish?

 

[autolex]

well I am a child with a debit card haha

 

[fish]

well I am a child with a debit card haha

View attachment 240617

Oh man.... Why do I need the insertion wrench?

Im finding that these pillow balls are a problem. They thread into the plastic terribly and don't stay. Some are tight, some loose. Ive tried different ones too, all the same. They constantly need to be cleaned and oiled to work consistently. Im spending allot time maintaining them and they sort of suck. I think that will be a Place for a non-arrma parts upgrade.
And the steering bearing posts need shims, have to much slop in them. I tried an EXB and TLR one, same thing. same parts basically. I need the right washers. And that servo saver needs to be much tighter - ive leaned over and over again.
And Servos. Stock Servo just stinks. I have another ANNIMOS 35kg servo comign tomorrow. For $35 they work nicely but I DO want to invest in a good servo, they are $100+ easy.

And Thanks, so now I want these!
The Stock shock cap bushings aren't good, Ive gone through a bunch of them.

6S PILLAR BALL RETAINER NUT KIT​

ARRMA 6S SHOCK CAP BUSHINGS​

These too, Ive gone through Arrma Dif Outdrives. They get chewed up.

ARRMA 6S 5mm DIFFERENTIAL OUT DRIVES​

These cars are like nothing else! Right?! And they DO Scare people. They don't know what to think.

 

[fish]

FISH! Your builds are one of my largest inspirations!

I can appreciate the scale of yours (and what you use them for): I just don't want to go quite that large honestly. I think keeping it as light as I can (just adding a bit more width) for reliability makes the most sense, especially considering dirt tracks will be largely where it lives.

I'd like to keep as many "consumables" (axles/arms, bearings, steering rod) stock/another-stock-part as is possible. Changing outdrive sizes but not arms definitely changes leverage on the control arms. I haven't done the motion calculations yet, but adding a spacer on the outdrive (or lengthening it) changes the ackerman, camber curve, dave point (google it) and a ton of other stuff (similar to adding like a 1 FOOT spacer on your car) I want to keep that buggy capability (even expand on it) by lengthening arms, possibly going down in spring weight (but up in length and shock oil weight) while keeping similar motion ratios as stock (if that makes sense?).

I do have a set of rear mojave shocks already, if I get into weights and tuning and cant get shock OAL right I may use those and order some mojave fronts too...

Just for clarity sake: this starting point is a 328mm V5 6S BLX chassis (SWB), so widening it about 20mm makes it drive more like a very short mojave than a kraton/talion i'd guess (no axle outdrive spacers, length/width ratio is closer). Though a LWB Chassis/Driveshaft set may be in the future if I cant make this work the way I want (still mojave arms, I want it to still drive like a typhon!)... Hence the "1/7.5" name.

I feel like the hardening in the drivetrain that I've done so far is reasonable, but thinking about M2C Delrin Pillar Ball parts? What consumables are you going through @fish?

This current Stretched Typhon I went with Talion BLX Shock Towers and Typhon Front Shocks, 70mm, 7.7 f-lb/in Springs, 1x2x8 pistons, 1000cst oil. Typhon Rear Shocks, 85mm, 6.2lb/in Springs, 1x2x8 pistons, 800cst oil. Its Nice, just not slinky like my 3S Typhon is, the ballerina. Both fun. But the stretched 6S Typhon isn't dancing or playing around. Its Planted, Not springy and Droop is low. It does take road bumps well, where the 3S doesn't.
Its for street bashing and unlawfulness with a little trespassing thown in.

And thanks! I thought logging someones learning progress into this hobby would be interesting and beneficial to some. And it helps me! The builders area of this forum was a Great Idea!
The Fun is in the build, the wrenching. Anyone can BUY a toy and play with it, Making it - your Own is so cool and very rewarding. I try to make it fun and inspiring too. Its scary to most and it shouldn't be. Just have your credit card handy.

 

[joshludden]

Oh man.... Why do I need the insertion wrench?

Im finding that these pillow balls are a problem. They thread into the plastic terribly and don't stay. Some are tight, some loose. Ive tried different ones too, all the same. They constantly need to be cleaned and oiled to work consistently. Im spending allot time maintaining them and they sort of suck. I think that will be a Place for a non-arrma parts upgrade.
And the steering bearing posts need shims, have to much slop in them. I tried an EXB and TLR one, same thing. same parts basically. I need the right washers. And that servo saver needs to be much tighter - ive leaned over and over again.
And Servos. Stock Servo just stinks. I have another ANNIMOS 35kg servo comign tomorrow. For $35 they work nicely but I DO want to invest in a good servo, they are $100+ easy.

And Thanks, so now I want these!
The Stock shock cap bushings aren't good, Ive gone through a bunch of them.

6S PILLAR BALL RETAINER NUT KIT​

ARRMA 6S SHOCK CAP BUSHINGS​

These too, Ive gone through Arrma Dif Outdrives. They get chewed up.

ARRMA 6S 5mm DIFFERENTIAL OUT DRIVES​

These cars are like nothing else! Right?! And they DO Scare people. They don't know what to think.

View attachment 240675

I've got all these & they work well, but the wrench is nice to have til ya can get a better "feeling" of what's tight enough & what's too tight. I don't put anything but a spritz of dry lube if they seem stiff. W/ out the wheels on I like the threaded ends to dangle & move freely

 

[autolex]

This current Stretched Typhon I went with Talion BLX Shock Towers and Typhon Front Shocks, 70mm, 7.7 f-lb/in Springs, 1x2x8 pistons, 1000cst oil. Typhon Rear Shocks, 85mm, 6.2lb/in Springs, 1x2x8 pistons, 800cst oil. Its Nice, just not slinky like my 3S Typhon is, the ballerina. Both fun. But the stretched 6S Typhon isn't dancing or playing around. Its Planted, Not springy and Droop is low. It does take road bumps well, where the 3S doesn't.
Its for street bashing and unlawfulness with a little trespassing thrown in.

I think we're gonna get along just fine! Thanks for the data: I needed some ideas of where I was going!

 

[fish]

I've got all these & they work well, but the wrench is nice to have til ya can get a better "feeling" of what's tight enough & what's too tight. I don't put anything but a spritz of dry lube if they seem stiff. W/ out the wheels on I like the threaded ends to dangle & move freely

Yes. I need to get these in order and my Kraton Front Hubs are kind of shot now. The Hot Racing ones are what most of you guys are liking. The Arrma ones get full of dirt, grit and start binding up on me.
Your build is Bulletproof by the way Jay Leno would approve!

 

[autolex]

Reefs 422HDV2 is on the short list of actual upgraded electronics

@fish and @joshludden : looking at those bulletproofed builds for my inspiration!

 

[fish]

 

[autolex]

Made a few more orders for this guy: waiting for a ton of parts to land from M2C and Jenny's in addition to some ebay stuff arriving soon/already.

13T/15T Pinions and a 46T (felony) spur gear (smaller diameter, less rotating mass, less obstructions with batteries, rocks in the floor slot, etc)

 

[autolex]

Parts are arriving!

I need to do the arm/shaft swap before I figure out which shocks i want to put my new pistons in

I ordered a set of Mojave front shocks to match my back set sitting on my bench, so now I'll have a complete set to play with for long springs with a bit of droop and such when I get there.

I was kind of surprised when I saw the V5 servo mount was still plastic (nearly the rest of the lineup has aluminum) so I went ahead and ordered the $20 HR answer

I suppose the next step is to pull apart my hubs and put in the m2c pillar ball retainers in.

Gearing app work points me to probably going 13T/46T on 6S and 18T/46T on 4S (targeting mid 50mph speeds max, broad power delivery)

 

[autolex]

Laid everything out, this should be an easy swap!

 

[Moirae]

Nice build you got going! I'm really hoping using the kraton hubs plus mojave arms add just the right amount of width. I guess I'm going for more of a small truggy. Smaller than a noto but bigger than a typhon

 

[autolex]

Made a bit of progress (had to drill an axle grub, even after I heated them first, stripped from the factory)

Front is Mojave (Arms, Axles and Toe Adjuster), Rear is still Typhon. Typhon shocks still all around.

Also installed the M2C pillar ball kit with their tool, still set final tension with a hex wrench like i always do (tool is THE best way to start the cup retainer)

 

[autolex]

Off to find some grubscrews with the 2yo.

the width difference is much more subtle than literally any of the other arm swaps.

I love it!

 

[joshludden]

Off to find some grubscrews with the 2yo.

View attachment 242443
View attachment 242444
the width difference is much more subtle than literally any of the other arm swaps.

View attachment 242445
I love it!

I put on a set of hoons & ripped up a parking lot after I swapped the mojave arms- absolutely loved it!! So planted & the power coming out of a corner is incredible

 

[autolex]

Pic Dump, local hobby shop had tool steel grubs. She's up and drivable but these shock oil weights need to go WAY up, may swap to mojave shocks when they arrive (gotta take a look at spring rates).

It's like the gym rat version of the 6S! hahaha

Parts required to do this : (some I'd not thought of)

​

Mojave Lower Arms (F/R)​

Mojave Upper Arms/Links (F/R)​

Mojave Axle Shafts (but not the cups in the steering uprights)​

Mojave Toe Linkage Screw adjuster (the metal part)/or the whole Mojave toe Shaft​

Mojave Shock pin retention screws (they're longer)​

Mojave Rear Sway Bar (or cut yours down about 15mm like I did on both ends, probably only matters if you run the Mud Guards)​

Mojave Control arm Mud Guards (work better than Typhon ones, but you can move them over if you have them on your typhon)​

Upgraded Shocks: I'm going 700cst+ fluid (and Pistons from M2C, this allows a slowed rebound damping compared to compression)​

Spend the time to make sure your axle grubs are broken free (I like a soldering iron on the head for like 15-20s).​

extremely likely i'll spend way too much time shock tuning now.