What did you print/CAD today?

[Camaroboy383]

Wow!
and at what speeds are you pushing that filament in your K1Max?

I have it setup to change speed depending on the size of the part's.. small feature settings.. but the head, hat, body, any large part like that ran at 300mm max speed, outer wall 200mm... .15 layer height..

Some parts printed as slow as 100mm

 

[kaladeth]

Wow so impressive. And here I am messing up a simple gear print .

Any suggestions on how to make small prints stick on the PEI? The gear prints fine with a brim or supports, but struggles otherwise.

 

[dure16]

Any suggestions on how to make small prints stick on the PEI? The gear prints fine with a brim or supports, but struggles otherwise.

Use a brim or supports

Definitely makes it easy to paint for sure.. .. that is abs as well..

ABS and ASA are becoming my favorite to print. They hardly seem affected by extremely high print speeds.

 

[Tex Koder]

Wow so impressive. And here I am messing up a simple gear print .

View attachment 351405

Any suggestions on how to make small prints stick on the PEI? The gear prints fine with a brim or supports, but struggles otherwise.

You should look into using either-

1. Spoon Anti-Warping ,or
2. Tab+ AntiWarping

to your small parts WITHOUT having to deal with cleaning off brims from your "geared parts" or anything that has fine details at the first layers..

Personally, I HATE to have to do post-processing cleanup of brims off of small detailed parts...
Especially if I have to use a deburring tool on it... just completely ruins the surface finish along the edges of those parts.


Example >> Spoons

No brims at all for that small part's first layer area on the build plate..
And, the spoons are super easy to break clean off after print.

Also, you can adjust the spoon diameter and the length & width of the "handles" to suit your needs.

 

[nomis38]

You should look into using either-

1. Spoon Anti-Warping ,or
2. Tab+ AntiWarping

to your small parts WITHOUT having to deal with cleaning off brims from your "geared parts" or anything that has fine details at the first layers..

Personally, I HATE to have to do post-processing cleanup of brims off of small detailed parts...
Especially if I have to use a deburring tool on it... just completely ruins the surface finish along the edges of those parts.


Example >> Spoons




No brims at all for that small part's first layer area on the build plate..
And, the spoons are super easy to break clean off after print.

Also, you can adjust the spoon diameter and the length & width of the "handles" to suit your needs.

Glad to see your cura showing a N4M as the printer haha. Also hello David . Ok enough stalking your pictures!!

How do you place these spoons sir?

 

[Tex Koder]

Glad to see your cura showing a N4M as the printer haha. Also hello David . Ok enough stalking your pictures!!

It's not showing actual N4MAX (it's just a name of the file ,at the moment)
I'm still printing on my Ender3S1...

It's only showing a cable clamp that I tried to print&use instead of the OEM one.. which sucked.

However, this clamp is not working neither.. IF you were to go all the way up on Z-axis, it will crash into the bracing rod.


*************

How do you place these spoons sir?

It's a Cura plugin : Spoon AntiWarping

Once installed.
1. All you have to do is highlight your item that needs it.
2. Click on the Spoon icon on the left menu.
3. Set the diameter, handle size etc
4. Then click (once) on the area(s) of item that needs a bit more hold down assistance.

 

[nomis38]

It's not showing actual N4MAX (it's just a name of the file ,at the moment)
I'm still printing on my Ender3S1...

It's only showing a cable clamp that I tried to print&use instead of the OEM one.. which sucked.

However, this clamp is not working neither.. IF you were to go all the way up on Z-axis, it will crash into the bracing rod.


*************




It's a Cura plugin : Spoon AntiWarping

Once installed.
1. All you have to do is highlight your item that needs it.
2. Click on the Spoon icon on the left menu.
3. Set the diameter, handle size etc
4. Then click (once) on the area(s) of item that needs a bit more hold down assistance.

cool, thank you sir

 

[Engineer]

My first time printing with TPU. Made sure to run it out of a dryer and follow some of the recommended speed and retraction settings.

Took about 48 hours:

But it turned out well without any significant stringing!

Sorry Wilson, not paying you $2500 for a 3D printed basketball.

 

[RCbuzz]

My first time printing with TPU. Made sure to run it out of a dryer and follow some of the recommended speed and retraction settings.

View attachment 351570

Took about 48 hours:
View attachment 351571

But it turned out well without any significant stringing!

View attachment 351572

Sorry Wilson, not paying you $2500 for a 3D printed basketball.

That looks really good!

What settings did you end up with?

 

[nomis38]

That looks really good!

What settings did you end up with?

Agree that does look really nice.

 

[nomis38]

 

[Engineer]

That looks really good!

What settings did you end up with?

This is all that I did - some may be overkill and/or not optimized but I was just hoping to have something that printed well.

On the filament settings:
Retraction: increased to 1.8 mm
Flow speed: limited to 2 mm/sec
Temperature: 215C

Bed Temp: 65C
Disabled reducing infill retraction

Biggest thing was to slow everything down to 50 mm/sec

 

[Tex Koder]

View attachment 351734

Looks Great!

Don't forget the Rocket Jet pack to complete your armor!!

 

[dure16]

Biggest thing was to slow everything down to 50 mm/sec

Yeah TPU needs slow. How long did the whole print take?

 

[nomis38]

Looks Great!

Don't forget the Rocket Jet pack to complete your armor!!

I wont be doing the Jet pack, but I will be adding a cape, utility belt, and shin armor. Then some minor adjustments to the clothes. Then she will finally be at 100%

 

[Engineer]

Yeah TPU needs slow. How long did the whole print take?

I think around 42 hours… I also dried the filament for six hours before starting. Others reporting printing around 75 mm/sec with success.

I’m going to try next with flexible PLA and see how that works.

 

[dure16]

I think around 42 hours… I also dried the filament for six hours before starting. Others reporting printing around 75 mm/sec with success.

I’m going to try next with flexible PLA and see how that works.

I've heard that the ball bounces better with flexible PLA

 

[nomis38]

Playing around with a small T-34 my fav tank from war-thunder tier 2. Tracks are still printing. The tank wheels/tracks will all roll, the turret will rotate, and the cannon move up/down.

Hey my BIQU BX has to do something hahahah.

This is going on the N4M

 

[nomis38]

T-34 85

50% infill, she's a chonky little tank!!

 

[Engineer]

With the eclipse coming up, I wanted to mount a piece of solar film to my 200-600 mm lens. It was my first time designing anything - fired up TinkerCAD and watched a a few videos and gave it a crack. I'm pretty happy with the results and now I have a way to easily mount/dismount the filter without having to kludge something together.