What did you print/CAD today?

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Now THAT'S creative!
You just need to install a self-driving-tracking module to have it follow you automatically wherever you go.. 🍺🤣👍
I'll put the idea on my backlog ;)

For now i'm starting with a thumb throttle on the handlebar. NL bashing season is about to start and our main location is at really lose sand (like a beach but very dry)
It first needs to prove it can handle the sand all loaded up with gear and also be durable enough.
 
I'll put the idea on my backlog ;)

For now i'm starting with a thumb throttle on the handlebar. NL bashing season is about to start and our main location is at really lose sand (like a beach but very dry)
It first needs to prove it can handle the sand all loaded up with gear and also be durable enough.

Can't wait to see some of that on location and transporting your rigs & gear!

Please keep us posted. 👍
 
Nothing fancy but useful. Designed for a customer.

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It's pretty stout. I applied about 10-12lbs of force and it held up good. It's 4*6*3".
I have also designed HCG, LCG mounts that can be screwed into it, hence the 4 holes you can see in the bottom view pic.
 
Got really bored the other day and decided to try my luck with the printer again. These actually came out pretty good…so far 🤣 now I just have to remove them View attachment 354752
What's the removal process for delicate prints on glass? I only have experience with metal spring sheets.
 
What's the removal process for delicate prints on glass? I only have experience with metal spring sheets.

Need to let the glass plate to cool down completely and it should self release (if it has the special coating)
or if plain glass, you will need to use a sharp metal scraper to get underneath and lift an edge and help start lifting the part up & off the build plate.

Warning ⚠️
Must be Careful of slippage of the scraper..
Watch where you place your other hand!
 
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Wouldn't you be able to slide dental floss or similar underneath the print and slide it down?

Maybe..

IF you can get under the part...
You're more likely to strangle your fingers pulling on the floss than getting the part off. 😂
 
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Just a simple ride height gauge, supposed to be 20mm diameter x 10mm height. What do I tweak to get a more accurate Z / height? Layer height was set to 0.2.

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I was thinking maybe Top/Bottom Layers and Thickness? Since it doesn't square up to 10 mm. 0.8x4 + 0.8x4 = 6.4. But I would have expected 0.2x18 =3.6 of the in-between layers to make it square.

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Just a simple ride height gauge, supposed to be 20mm diameter x 10mm height. What do I tweak to get a more accurate Z / height? Layer height was set to 0.2.

View attachment 354784
View attachment 354785

I was thinking maybe Top/Bottom Layers and Thickness? Since it doesn't square up to 10 mm. 0.8x4 + 0.8x4 = 6.4. But I would have expected 0.2x18 =3.6 of the in-between layers to make it square.

View attachment 354792


Use a pair of old CD jewel cases (they're usually 125mm high) as a set gauge -one on each side- to measure/calibrate your X-gantry to a known height against the chassis.

That way you know for sure your Z-Axis are set equal to each other.
Once that's done.

I would Enable ironing
To have a Perfectly smooth top surface.



This is how I make my Bed Level Gauges ,to ensure they are accurate.
 
I'm a caveman compared to you. I print and adjust according to how well it prints relative to placement on the bed. Seems to work stellar for me, but it's definitely not calculated at all :ROFLMAO:

Aside from manual/auto bed leveling.
 
What's the removal process for delicate prints on glass? I only have experience with metal spring sheets.
For those I let it cool down the slid a razor under the legs then used a little scraper of sorts from the wife’s Cricut…kept waiting to slip and pop a leg off 😂
 
I'm a caveman compared to you. I print and adjust according to how well it prints relative to placement on the bed. Seems to work stellar for me, but it's definitely not calculated at all :ROFLMAO:

Aside from manual/auto bed leveling.

Work History GIF by ClickUp
 
What's the removal process for delicate prints on glass? I only have experience with metal spring sheets.
I've done the glass bed thing. I was not a fan. PEI spring all the way!!

For glass beds I took a paint scrapper and made it just slightly sharper but not sharp enough to cut something. It seemed to work the best. I found that too sharp or too dull didn't work near as well as that perfect medium.
 
I use a liquid to get prints of the glass bed of my E3V2.

It is thinned down (with tap water) isopropyl in a spray bottle, 1 simple spray to the side of the print and the fluid creeps around the edge of the print on the glass bed. After a few seconds I can lift the print off by hand. If really stuck I use the scraper to lift the print, or wait a few seconds longer. Lifting the print slightly when still stuck will let the fluid creep further under the model.
 
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Just a simple ride height gauge, supposed to be 20mm diameter x 10mm height. What do I tweak to get a more accurate Z / height? Layer height was set to 0.2.

View attachment 354784
View attachment 354785

I was thinking maybe Top/Bottom Layers and Thickness? Since it doesn't square up to 10 mm. 0.8x4 + 0.8x4 = 6.4. But I would have expected 0.2x18 =3.6 of the in-between layers to make it square.

View attachment 354792

Horizontal and vertical expansion settings to dial in the exact sizes

What's the removal process for delicate prints on glass? I only have experience with metal spring sheets.

I prefer glass for something that needs to be very flat.. glass releases on its own when cooled.. TPU can be more of a struggle though, but will release decently if you have a release layer adhesive..
 
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