Best RC LiPo battery connector types: Choosing and Soldering

[Homer1959]

When

When you look closely at the ridges you see a side rounded off and a side squared, they enter the connector rounded side first, i got some a little while back and looked it up, was happy i could insert them after soldering, there are some videos of it
View attachment 148092

Ahhh ok so if I understand correctly I should solder the terminal first then , insert the pins from the back of the blue housing . The cone shape at the bottom of the pins are use as a guide to spread the plastic a little before locking in place , anyway thats what I understand Thanks Rowe its really appreciated

 

[Rowe]

Ahhh ok so if I understand correctly I should solder the terminal first then , insert the pins from the back of the blue housing . The cone shape at the bottom of the pins are use as a guide to spread the plastic a little before locking in place , anyway thats what I understand Thanks Rowe its really appreciated

Yes if your pins look like the picture you are correct

 

[psmokDu87]

If everything you have is already an XT-90 then stick with it.

I prefer EC5 because that's what I started using a couple years ago. I also find them extremely easy to build with their bullet type connectors whereas the XT-90 are more like a U shape to solder onto.

EC5's and XT-90's are both rated for 120amps so you wouldn't gain anything there.

I have ic5 and I’m planning on putting it in my castle mamba monster x I that good or no?

If everything you have is already an XT-90 then stick with it.

I prefer EC5 because that's what I started using a couple years ago. I also find them extremely easy to build with their bullet type connectors whereas the XT-90 are more like a U shape to solder onto.

EC5's and XT-90's are both rated for 120amps so you wouldn't gain anything there.

I have ic5 and I’m planning on putting it in my castle mamba monster x esc is that good or not.

 

[WoodiE]

I have ic5 and I’m planning on putting it in my castle mamba monster x esc is that good or not.

Yes sir. IC5 connectors will work just fine.

 

[psmokDu87]

Yes sir. IC5 connectors will work just fine.

Look this is my plan I’m new to the hobby I want to put two bullet connectors on the esc and two connectors on the Y for easy access will it create resistance with 6.5 mm connectors also my cap pack I see people put a connector on that is that good ?
Like this but with ic5s how would connect the cap pack if I go this route ?

 

[olds97_lss]

Look this is my plan I’m new to the hobby I want to put two bullet connectors on the esc and two connectors on the Y for easy access will it create resistance with 6.5 mm connectors also my cap pack I see people put a connector on that is that good ?
Like this but with ic5s how would connect the cap pack if I go this route ?

You would want the cap pack across the two wires to the esc.

6.5's likely won't add much resistance, but it will add one more thing that can possibly disconnect on a hard landing, so you would want to make sure to strap the wires down.

When I run a cap pack, I usually splice into the wires close to the esc, then use an xt60 to the cap pack vs having it hard wired. I still run one on my e-revo 2.0 with a max6, but probably don't need it. Then again, I run 45C packs in that, so it may be helping.

 

[psmokDu87]

You would want the cap pack across the two wires to the esc.

6.5's likely won't add much resistance, but it will add one more thing that can possibly disconnect on a hard landing, so you would want to make sure to strap the wires down.

When I run a cap pack, I usually splice into the wires close to the esc, then use an xt60 to the cap pack vs having it hard wired. I still run one on my e-revo 2.0 with a max6, but probably don't need it. Then again, I run 45C packs in that, so it may be helping.

Thanks finally a visual I’ve looking at videos have to keep stopping them to see the set up it’s a royal pain !
I wasn’t sure if it was a good ideas as far as if they’ll work if not hardwired you know.

 

[olds97_lss]

This is the same as the one in the e-revo that I used to have in my outcast with the blx185:

Zipties to hold them, hot glue in between them and polyimide tape over all the solder joints:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S1Z877Q

I put them in a balloon, ziptie the end tight, then wrap with tape so the balloon doesn't get friction holes in it over time.

Installed on the outcast is easier to see actually than the revo was, I made a little plate out of delrin that I screwed to the top of the steering rack plate:

You can see where I spliced into the esc wires by the servo.

The cap's I used:

The first one I made was for my castle MMX in my savage. My ripple voltage was pretty bad, 3v+. Castle suggested I run higher C packs and replace my connectors with something better. After the cap pack, it was <1V. I did change from TRX to XT90's later, but don't recall checking the ripple. I only did that because I was tired of soldering TRX connectors and having them pop apart all the time.

Since the cap pack helped so much on that, I made one for the MMv1 in my e-revo at the time and my BLX185 in the outcast. Both of those now have max6's in them and I likely don't need the cap pack. I didn't put it back in the outcast, but I did leave the one in the revo.

 

[Abraksan]

Hey all i have a question. If i can choose between ic5 / ec5 / xt90 is there a best one to choose for a kraton exb with a max6 combo?

 

[Sockenschuss]

Hey all i have a question. If i can choose between ic5 / ec5 / xt90 is there a best one to choose for a kraton exb with a max6 combo?

IC5 and EC5 are basically the same. IC5 has the Spektrum “Smart“ lead in between (which you don't need) and is compatible to EC5. Both EC5 and XT90 are sufficient for 6S. I run EC5 on all <6S models except for my SCX24s they run EC3.

 

[Primarrma]

Hey all i have a question. If i can choose between ic5 / ec5 / xt90 is there a best one to choose for a kraton exb with a max6 combo?

The reason I would choose ec5 over xt90 is that you can solder the pins out of the plug, you won't melt the plug that way. The only reason I would chose XT90 over ec5 is that HobbyKing sell the genuine ones for next to nothing, you can buy 10 pairs for $10 or so. They are high grade connectors, I've had very poor quality knock off's and they are not worth buying. The EC5 connectors are hit and miss too.

 

[Epplers]

I switched from the XT90 to XT150 that are away easier to solder than the XT90. Some issues with XT150: sparks, difficult to clip the cover and very hard to remove the cover afterward. Hence, I decided to move toward the AS150 that offers almost the same performances as the XT150 with anti-spark design, 7mm, easy to fit insulation cap with thread and based on some YouTube tutorial the soldering seems to be easy.

any experience with those AS150 from other users ?

They are the only connector I use now.

 

[Wakko]

On a battery originally coming with 8mm plugs, is there any reason not to cut and convert to EC5?
https://chinahobbyline.com/shop/detail/532

 

[Sockenschuss]

On a battery originally coming with 8mm plugs, is there any reason not to cut and convert to EC5?
https://chinahobbyline.com/shop/detail/532

Nope. Always remember when cutting: One at a time don't cut both leads at once

 

[Wakko]

I did that once as a kid, cutting a plug off a bad set of Christmas lights. Forgot to unplug it first...

 

[jkflow]

That is one of those life lessons you won't forget

 

[Notorious J]

After a recommendation from Castle Creations, I switched all my connectors to XT150. Many of the higher end esc's are designed to draw over 100 amps, and the XT90's I was using may have contributed to an MM2 failure. They're replacing the esc under warranty, and I took their recommendation to heart. The one thing I overlooked was the consideration of anti spark. Amass does make an AS150 as well, and I might switch my battery connectors down the road. Plugging in the batteries to test last night brought back that awful "pop" that I haven't seen since switching to anti sparks. Remember when changing connectors to buy enough to change the charger leads as well.

 

[Primarrma]

After a recommendation from Castle Creations, I switched all my connectors to XT150. Many of the higher end esc's are designed to draw over 100 amps, and the XT90's I was using may have contributed to an MM2 failure. They're replacing the esc under warranty, and I took their recommendation to heart. The one thing I overlooked was the consideration of anti spark. Amass does make an AS150 as well, and I might switch my battery connectors down the road. Plugging in the batteries to test last night brought back that awful "pop" that I haven't seen since switching to anti sparks. Remember when changing connectors to buy enough to change the charger leads as well.
View attachment 149990

I love XT150s, they are on every car I have. Great for joining two batteries together without a Y lead.

I have to check this out, but I don't seem to get the spark as often when I connect the positive lead first.

 

[Notorious J]

I love XT150s, they are on every car I have. Great for joining two batteries together without a Y lead.

I have to check this out, but I don't seem to get the spark as often when I connect the positive lead first.

I love that option of have one pre-made lead to use for two batteries as well. As for the spark, I tried both ways and had similar results, but I'll try to focus on positive first next time around.

 

[olds97_lss]

FWIW, I ran across this video a while back:

@1:18, there was 300A running through the xt90 and the wire desoldered itself. The connector seemed unfazed.

I'm not saying you should replace everything with XT90's, just that it seems well up to the task for the few seconds of amperage spikes we put them through in most cases.

The OSE QS8 seem nice for big amps:
https://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-qs8-anti