Typhon Opinion about the 3s t bone racing bumpers

[Camaroboy383]

It actually fits exactly like the factory design.. if you mount the block they provided.. (if they did) you will see its very very similar to the mounting fit of the block... and as you can see the aluminum angle is a bad idea... lol..

Glad you got one printed up.. but you don't need to cut the bottom...
Also print it upright.. it will look much nicer
The pressure provided by the bumper on the part is a good thing..

This contact point should be there.. it's the intent of the design...

That's sad that T-Bones "fix" doesn't even actually work..................

Nope, makes things much worse.. as I suspected... look at the pressure applied to the lower screws... pull through's by the masses, soon to come...

 

[Surchaufeur]

completely agree, but the without the bumper I would have probably bent or broke the shocks. Probably not broken the chassis in half.I would have still damaged it badly, I just think there is got to be something more minimalist and better.

I dissagree i broke my chasi witht he stock bumper when i hit a metal post
Thats the main reason im using the stock skidplate and i have the tbone bumper over it no issues
They should have designed it like that to be out over the stock skidplate

 

[slick2500]

I dissagree i broke my chasi witht he stock bumper when i hit a metal post
Thats the main reason im using the stock skidplate and i have the tbone bumper over it no issues
They should have designed it like that to be out over the stock skidplate

This

 

[Switchblade2k]

This contact point should be there.. it's the intent of the design...



Nope, makes things much worse.. as I suspected... look at the pressure applied to the lower screws... pull throughs by the masses, soon to come...

If that leading edge was chamfered and then a larger section above it was built so that you could have the two screws go into it on the front of the bumper it would eliminate the pull throughs and be all together a better solution.

I printed it in the orientation I did in order for it to be stronger. That piece will snap quickly on a hard strike if you print is so "it looks pretty"...I also printed it at .3mm layer height so that kinda exacerbated the look!

 

[jondilly1974]

If that leading edge was chamfered and then a larger section above it was built so that you could have the two screws go into it on the front of the bumper it would eliminate the pull throughs and be all together a better solution.

I printed it in the orientation I did in order for it to be stronger. That piece will snap quickly on a hard strike if you print is so "it looks pretty"...I also printed it at .3mm layer height so that kinda exacerbated the look!

You can also turn on ironing if you want a prettier finish on the top layer.

 

[Camaroboy383]

If that leading edge was chamfered and then a larger section above it was built so that you could have the two screws go into it on the front of the bumper it would eliminate the pull throughs and be all together a better solution.

I printed it in the orientation I did in order for it to be stronger. That piece will snap quickly on a hard strike if you print is so "it looks pretty"...I also printed it at .3mm layer height so that kinda exacerbated the look!

Try it... print it upright... install it.. run it... I've had no issues.. it is designed as intended..

Referring to pull through's you took way out in left field... the pull through's will be abundant on the aluminum angle... the design I came up with will alleviate that...

The integrated block with the screws was in the discussion.. it is not anymore.. if we put screws into the 3d printed part and it takes a shot it will break no doubt... that mission was aborted...

Now again.. the contact between the bumper and printed part is intentional.. it will give relief to the mounting bolts in an impact... because this pressure is up and back it's actually loading the layer lines, not shearing or pulling them apart...

You may print and do what you like... but cutting them is not the intended purpose.. that plastic is a shield for the hinge plate and works as such as well as giving a contact point to relieve strain on the mounting bolts...

print as intended, upright and without cutting it and try it, what have you got to lose besides the bad quality of the print... you can always go back to printing them flat on thier back...use a carbon based filament or abs... I've had no issues... .3 layers is not strong either.. I suggest .1 for more bonding in the layers...

 

[Switchblade2k]

You can also turn on ironing if you want a prettier finish on the top layer.

doesn't work as well as it sounds like it should, kinda gimicky in my opinion. If you have your materials tuned correctly you shouldn't need to do that and its FDM there's always gonna be layers!

 

[Camaroboy383]

doesn't work as well as it sounds like it should, kinda gimicky in my opinion. If you have your materials tuned correctly you shouldn't need to do that and its FDM there's always gonna be layers!

I disagree... ironing is helpful and works exactly as it should if tuned correctly.. you can get mold like appearance's with it.. I run 17-21% at 30mm with .2 inset.. the percentage is based upon the likes of the plastic used...

 

[slick2500]

I disagree... ironing is helpful and works exactly as it should if tuned correctly.. you can get mold like appearance's with it.. I run 17-21% at 30mm with .2 inset.. the percentage is based upon the likes of the plastic used...

Man now I know how women feel when us guys talk about cars lol

 

[Switchblade2k]

Try it... print it upright... install it.. run it... I've had no issues.. it is designed as intended..

Referring to pull through's you took way out in left field... the pull through's will be abundant on the aluminum angle... the design I came up with will alleviate that...

The integrated block with the screws was in the discussion.. it is not anymore.. if we put screws into the 3d printed part and it takes a shot it will break no doubt... that mission was aborted...

Now again.. the contact between the bumper and printed part is intentional.. it will give relief to the mounting bolts in an impact... because this pressure is up and back it's actually loading the layer lines, not shearing or pulling them apart...

You may print and do what you like... but cutting them is not the intended purpose.. that plastic is a shield for the hinge plate and works as such as well as giving a contact point to relieve strain on the mounting bolts...

print as intended, upright and without cutting it and try it, what have you got to lose besides the bad quality of the print... you can always go back to printing them flat on thier back...use a carbon based filament or abs... I've had no issues... .3 layers is not strong either.. I suggest .1 for more bonding in the layers...

I'm not concerned with a bumper strike breaking the part its the inevitable "tumble" or "bad landing" or "accident" that directly strikes that part and with horizontal layer lines it WILL break on the layers. I've been designing 3D printed RC parts for Rock Crawlers for a while now and every time I think I can get away with printing something "the convenient way" it bites me in the butt and I have a broken part...

I've already modified the model and will continue to work on the great start you gave us!

Thanks.

 

[jondilly1974]

Ironing has helped some on my Ender 5 using PLA. Not saying it will appear injection molded but my prints look much nicer than what was shown above.

 

[Camaroboy383]

I'm not concerned with a bumper strike breaking the part its the inevitable "tumble" or "bad landing" or "accident" that directly strikes that part and with horizontal layer lines it WILL break on the layers. I've been designing 3D printed RC parts for Rock Crawlers for a while now and every time I think I can get away with printing something "the convenient way" it bites me in the butt and I have a broken part...

I've already modified the model and will continue to work on the great start you gave us!

Thanks.

Do as wish sir... I'm not going to try to convince otherwise.. good luck..

 

[jondilly1974]

Just fired up the Ender 5 and running your STL file @Camaroboy383 ?

 

[Camaroboy383]

Just fired up the Ender 5 and running your STL file @Camaroboy383 ?

Nice buddy... glad to hear

 

[jondilly1974]

Hot off the press...

 

[crimsonfancy]

Hot off the press...

View attachment 52742

?You're right. They don't appear injection molded but sure enough a success.
I looked at the machine you use and its looks like a good value. So many printers these days. Is the software intuitive? (off topic) I'll see around for more info

 

[Surchaufeur]

I have used a peinter before who was badly tuned and gave crappy results but when its tuned right the material is really strong

 

[unclebrudy]

I broke the “old” hinge pin retainer (the black plastic one mounted with the two screws) on my front Basher Typhon 3S bumper on a jump I don’t think it should have broken on. Anyway, I just taped the hinge pin block on. The bumper proved very durable even without the old block, and I was impressed. Then the new solution was announced and I ordered a pair. Really cool of them to offer them free. Sadly.

The afternoon after I installed it the bumper snapped after a moderate speed hop off a sidewalk. You can see the new retainer a bit on the left side of the crack. Definitely increases the chance of breaking your bumper.

I’m glad the community is designing better solutions, and I hope @Camaroboy383 ’s works better, which I’m sure it does. To @T-Bone Racing ’s credit the warranty process was smooth and pain free, wonderful customer service in that regard.

 

[jondilly1974]

?You're right. They don't appear injection molded but sure enough a success.
I looked at the machine you use and its looks like a good value. So many printers these days. Is the software intuitive? (off topic) I'll see around for more info

I use Cura 4.3 for slicing. Usually using Tinkercad for designing, but trying to learn Fusion 360. Never had to use CAD before, so there’s a learning curve. Will try to watch some tutorials over the winter. Not enough time right now.

 

[Switchblade2k]

?You're right. They don't appear injection molded but sure enough a success.
I looked at the machine you use and its looks like a good value. So many printers these days. Is the software intuitive? (off topic) I'll see around for more info

I wouldn't call the software "intuitive", the slicers are pretty easy to get started with, but like anything it takes some time to get good with them. You don't need to know how to use CAD software to use a 3D printer but it opens a whole set of doors when you can design and print whatever your minds eye desires!