What did you break today?

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Not really breaking news, but playing with my 4 yo daughter near water...
she was handling fine until "turn, trun, non, non, stop, stop, splash !"
the granite grom upisde down in 30 cm of water, gently bubling with my brand new set up brushless & 10BL60 esc non waterproof...
But finally, just put it off the water and sake it a bit and it was running again !
( sometimes randomly stops or reverse won't working but enough to end the lipo)
then back home, i dry it with hair dryer + compressed air bomb , and fully operationnal !

That stuff is srtong, but don't play near water :ROFLMAO:
 
My Typhons pinion grub screws come loose and one fell out. It was then spull around in the gearbox like a rock tumbler which damaged the housing and the other grub screw. The pinion then spun on the motor shaft and almost friction welded itself to it. Somehow both gears survived.
It just needs new grub screws. Think I was lucky. It could have gone between the gears and caused havoc.
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My Typhons pinion grub screws come loose and one fell out. It was then spull around in the gearbox like a rock tumbler which damaged the housing and the other grub screw. The pinion then spun on the motor shaft and almost friction welded itself to it. Somehow both gears survived.
It just needs new grub screws. Think I was lucky. It could have gone between the gears and caursed havoc.
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Major disaster averted, good catch. Loctite will save your butt ;)
 
So I did a little experiment. My Senton & Typhon have holes cut in the chassis and the spurs have been perfect for months. I ran this Big Rock for the 1st time today and I did Not cut a hole in it. Didn't even make it through a whole pack before the spur got chewed up. Needless to say I will be cutting this chassis asap.

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So I did a little experiment. My Senton & Typhon have holes cut in the chassis and the spurs have been perfect for months. I ran this Big Rock for the 1st time today and I did Not cut a hole in it. Didn't even make it through a whole pack before the spur got chewed up. Needless to see I will be cutting this chassis asap.

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You found a good fix by cutting a hole in the chassis. Post a pic of one you've done or that one please, so I'll know what to do to my Senton when I get the 4s fluid diff & power module.
 
You found a good fix by cutting a hole in the chassis. Post a pic of one you've done or that one please, so I'll know what to do to my Senton when I get the 4s fluid diff & power module.
First pic is Senton, second is Typhon. I went a little too big on the Typhon, tried to fill some of it with plastic cement. Senton slot is ideal size.

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You found a good fix by cutting a hole in the chassis. Post a pic of one you've done or that one please, so I'll know what to do to my Senton when I get the 4s fluid diff & power module.
You only need to drill one or two holes under the spur gear about 3-5mm diameter. I suggest removing the gearbox assy first. A square hole will introduce a starting point for cracks. Round hole is better.
 
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You only need to drill one of two holes under the spur gear about 3-6mm diameter. I suggest removing the gearbox assy first. A square hole will introduce a starting point for cracks. Round hole is better.
Good idea as well. Just a place/slot/holes for dirt & debris to escape. Like a 6s.
 
You only need to drill one or two holes under the spur gear about 3-5mm diameter. I suggest removing the gearbox assy first. A square hole will introduce a starting point for cracks. Round hole is better.
Good advice. I may give that method a shot on the Big Rock.
 
So I did a little experiment. My Senton & Typhon have holes cut in the chassis and the spurs have been perfect for months. I ran this Big Rock for the 1st time today and I did Not cut a hole in it. Didn't even make it through a whole pack before the spur got chewed up. Needless to say I will be cutting this chassis asap.

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I have wondered why Arrma has not revised this yet over the versions..

Sealing the modules worked for us. I seal every one now. If you get the seal tight everything lasts longer (Bearings, Slipper, Motor, Spur, Pinion).

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/help-me-upgrade-my-senton-3s-for-sand.20322/post-278043
 
I have wondered why Arrma has not revised this yet over the versions..

Sealing the modules worked for us. I seal every one now. If you get the seal tight everything lasts longer (Bearings, Slipper, Motor, Spur, Pinion).

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/help-me-upgrade-my-senton-3s-for-sand.20322/
Sealing is another good alternative. When done right, it's very effective. Hopefully Arrma will address this with the next revision of the 3S line since they just addressed the 4S trucks.
 
That's another method I use too. I use the soft, loop side of velco. It can make it a tight fit at first but seems to loosen eventually.
I have tried the soft side Velcro too but I didn't think it sealed as well. The rig that has the thin double sticky tape with the red backing has several packs through it, power module is still clean. (y)
 
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