What new full hotend direct drive assembly to get?

[FireDrake001]

I have a Ender 3 Max Neo and was going to upgrade to a better assembly since my hotend is dead anyway. I was thinking the entire assembly like the one in this link. https://www.amazon.com/Official-Cre...port-Filament/dp/B0B878P36Y/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?

What one should I get? I want the entire thing and it to be direct drive. I know that Micro Swiss makes some good stuff but I thought I would ask your input.

 

[kspitters]

I have a Ender 3 Max Neo and was going to upgrade to a better assembly since my hotend is dead anyway. I was thinking the entire assembly like the one in this link. https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-Extruder-Printers，Support-Filament/dp/B0B878P36Y/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?

What one should I get? I want the entire thing and it to be direct drive. I know that Micro Swiss makes some good stuff but I thought I would ask your input.

@Tex Koder and @Camaroboy383 are good help here

 

[Tex Koder]

I have a Ender 3 Max Neo and was going to upgrade to a better assembly since my hotend is dead anyway. I was thinking the entire assembly like the one in this link. https://www.amazon.com/Official-Creality-Extruder-Printers，Support-Filament/dp/B0B878P36Y/ref=sr_1_17_sspa?

What one should I get? I want the entire thing and it to be direct drive. I know that Micro Swiss makes some good stuff but I thought I would ask your input.

@Tex Koder and @Camaroboy383 are good help here

Haven't personally done a direct-drive upgrade/swap.. ,but do have the Sprite hotend on my S1.

I will say to double check your main board and make sure it have the port to accept that ribbon cable IF you go through Sprite route since it's proprietary.

I believe the Micro Swiss uses standard individual jacks.. Somebody please confirm.

 

[Dan B.]

I have no idea of what the hell y‘all are talking about, but I’ve been waiting for a “full hotend direct drive assembly” for my whole life, man.

 

[RC-Dude]

I not sure if all that tuning makes sense. If you get a Micro Swiss make sure it's absolutely the right one. But then you look at the prices I'm not sure it's worth it. Just got a new Anycubic Cobra 2 - 269 EUR, Self leveling, direct extruder, 150mm/s normal speed. That is 3x more speed than my Mega X.
Perhaps just look at a new printer.

 

[FireDrake001]

I not sure if all that tuning makes sense. If you get a Micro Swiss make sure it's absolutely the right one. But then you look at the prices I'm not sure it's worth it. Just got a new Anycubic Cobra 2 - 269 EUR, Self leveling, direct extruder, 150mm/s normal speed. That is 3x more speed than my Mega X.
Perhaps just look at a new printer.

The Micro Swiss assembly is like 110 dollars. The ender 3 max neo prints very large and is only two months old. The biggest problem with creality that I have found is their cheaper extruder assemblies. Technically we only need a new hotend but I want direct drive. for nicer prints The sprite extruder pro is about the same price wise as the micro swiss one. If I was going to get a new one I would get a prusa. The only thing is is that our family is not looking at a new printer whatsoever. I live in a household of 10 people and we do not always have money to splurge.

 

[Tex Koder]

The Micro Swiss assembly is like 110 dollars. The ender 3 max neo prints very large and is only two months old. The biggest problem with creality that I have found is their cheaper extruder assemblies.

It may be wise to keep it the same as it was before..

Technically we only need a new hotend but I want direct drive. for nicer prints The sprite extruder pro is about the same price wise as the micro swiss one. If I was going to get a new one I would get a prusa. The only thing is is that our family is not looking at a new printer whatsoever. I live in a household of 10 people and we do not always have money to splurge.

There is a compromise that you may not be aware of..
You're not going to be able to print as fast with the direct-drive ,in fact you will probably end up cranking it down your print speed by a Lot (from 60-65mm/s down to 45mm/s...) due to the weight of that hotend...

Just something to Really keep in mind..



For reference:
I have a Bowden setup on my modded Ender 3 V2 : Ender Extender 400 x 400 x 500mm
that
I would set it to run at 65mm/s for large prints BUT I would Still have to crank it down to 55mm or even 50mm - to print quality 'small' parts..

And for my the direct-drive on the Ender S1 and I'm currently set at 45mm/s to get the quality results that I want ,even though it's a 220 x 220mm print area..

 

[FireDrake001]

It may be wise to keep it the same as it was before..






There is a compromise that you may not be aware of..
You're not going to be able to print as fast with the direct-drive ,in fact you will probably end up cranking it down your print speed by a Lot (from 60-65mm/s down to 45mm/s...) due to the weight of that hotend...

Just something to Really keep in mind..



For reference:
I have a Bowden setup on my modded Ender 3 V2 : Ender Extender 400 x 400 x 500mm
that
I would set it to run at 65mm/s for large prints BUT I would Still have to crank it down to 55mm or even 50mm - to print quality 'small' parts..

And for my the direct-drive on the Ender S1 and I'm currently set at 45mm/s to get the quality results that I want ,even though it's a 220 x 220mm print area..

I do not mind waiting longer. I never really have. I want the prints to just come out the best quality they can. I do tend to make smaller stuff that need detail, but I am hopefully going to print the hull out of petg and make a 6s rc boat this summer.

 

[Tex Koder]

I do not mind waiting longer. I never really have. I want the prints to just come out the best quality they can. I do tend to make smaller stuff that need detail, but I am hopefully going to print the hull out of petg and make a 6s rc boat this summer.

Okay then..
You're on the right path.

The Very best to your upgrade journey

 

[Camaroboy383]

Sorry, can't help on this one.. I don't use any of the new fangled stuff, nor do I want it.. mechanical and simple is best imo..

And as a side note.. direct drive extruders do not print better just because it's direct drive.. print quality is all about understanding and manipulating the settings in your slicer..

 

[RC-Dude]

I guess hotends just last 300-500 hours.

 

[Camaroboy383]

I guess hotends just last 300-500 hours.


View attachment 303867

Holy schnikey's ! Please tell me those aren't just clogged hot ends.. every one of those has a heater or thermistor issue?

 

[RC-Dude]

Actually broken. Just not hot enough anymore. Clogging not the problem. Couple of thousand hours together. Perhaps also part of a bad batch? Had three Mega X Anycubic running together. Many parts that take 20-40 hours. Fuselage aeroplane and wings that take so long.

 

[FireDrake001]

Sorry, can't help on this one.. I don't use any of the new fangled stuff, nor do I want it.. mechanical and simple is best imo..

And as a side note.. direct drive extruders do not print better just because it's direct drive.. print quality is all about understanding and manipulating the settings in your slicer..

I want to be able to print with more then just pla, tpu, petg and ABS. I am also tired of the Teflon tubing. I use the Prusa Slicer.

 

[Camaroboy383]

I want to be able to print with more then just pla, tpu, petg and ABS. I am also tired of the Teflon tubing. I use the Prusa Slicer.

Keep in mind the firmware would need to be changed to print hotter materials.. so a swap to direct drive isn't going to accomplish this.... and a factory hot end with tough tube or Capricorn is good to 300c.. you think PTFE is bad, wait until you clog an all metal hot end....

I print with nylons and polycarbonate all the time on factory PTFE lined hot ends and factory firmware.. just saying..