Typhon Problems with Raz Shifrin Perfect Pass

[Notorious J]

So after rebuilding my Typhon, I've been out just a few times making new passes. Been okay for the most part, but twice in the span of a week, I've had a total loss of control of the car from almost a stand still. The first time, I was just testing the set up outside my house to make sure everything was working. Car went about 20 feet and lost signal. I walked up to the car and tapped reverse, and the car shot away at full speed into a curb. Esc was destroyed, battery took a hard hit, and one foam tire was chunked. I went in and begun the repairs, first replacing the esc. When I plugged it in, my radio sounded an alarm saying there was low power to the receiver. I unplugged the PP and everything seemed fine. I checked to make sure no lines were broken on the PP, and used a volt meter to check the positive and negative leads. All seemed okay, so I plugged it back in. Same alarm. Figured it might be the receiver, so I replace the Radiolink R7FG with a brand new one that was in my Vendetta. Set all the parameters on the radio, plugged PP back in, and it all seemed fine. I made two or three night passes on this new set up, and seemed to be okay. Yesterday, I got out to try some day runs. First pass, everything seemed okay, but I only got up to about 90 mph before letting off. Let it cool down, and rolled out to do another pass. Got out to where I wanted to start and was making a three point turn to line it up. On the last move, the car went off in reverse again and could not be stopped. I've run this road dozens of times, and have made the same three point turn each time. I did not hit the trigger that much and I even have reverse turned way down on the esc. The car just started to roll in reverse at a slow speed until it whacked a curb. Broke an arm, bent both TLR suspension mounts and one hinge pin. I've been using PP for over a year now, but this all started to happen in the last week. Am I playing with fire here? Is it possible that the unit is damaged from my crash? I keep it inside the receiver box and use foam to make sure it doesn't move around. It's never gotten wet either. Please don't be the guy who says I should get a Futaba. Yeah, I know they're better, but I'm not spending that kind of money for one car. The Radiolink has worked flawlessly for as long as I've had it, and still had reception when I made my 141 mph pass. I just want to know if anyone using PP has had similar issues and what they might have done to resolve it. My next move is to remove it of course, but I'm pretty sure my runs won't be as good without it.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

Crashes mess up electronics for sure. It sounds like something funky is going on with either the radio TX or the perfect pass. (you have eliminated all other possibilities) It seems most likely the perfect pass is to blame.

If you were to replace it, the cost is around 75-115.00 USD
That is around 50% of the cost of making the change over to the Noble NB4 that has the built-in throttle speed function. That would be my recommendation.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/signal-booster-install-on-the-flysky-noble-nb4.38545/page-7

I have been running with the antenna mod noted here on page 7 of the noble nb4 thread and it supports 1700+ ft distance away from you ( 3400+ ft runs assuming you stood somewhere near the middle of the run.)

 

[SrC]

By your process of elimination, all seems to point to PP as the issue. If you had another PP to compare, it would help.
As far as the radio is concerned. My RL runs flawless with the R7FG. The radio's trigger input is dead on. No issues. No it is not a Futaba by any stretch. I don't have PP.

Have you tried doing an Radio/ESC calibration yet???

Crashes mess up electronics for sure. It sounds like something funky is going on with either the radio TX or the perfect pass. It seems most likely the perfect pass is to blame.

If you were to replace it the cost is around 75-115.00
That is around 50% of the cost of making the change over to the Noble NB4 that has the built-in throttle speed function. That would be my recommendation.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/signal-booster-install-on-the-flysky-noble-nb4.38545/page-7

I have been running with the antenna mod noted here on page 7 of the noble nb4 thread and it supports 1700+ ft distance away from you ( 3400+ ft runs.)

+1.
I am just not daring enough to mod my NB4. So my Speed runners all use the RC6GS/R7FG
I give you creds for modding your NB4 for long range use.
The NB4 is one of the best Tx's out there. And the new firmware does afford the similar PP feature.

 

[LibertyMKiii]

By your process of elimination, all seems to point to PP as the issue. If you had another PP to compare, it would help.
As far as the radio is concerned. My RL runs flawless with the R7FG. The radio's trigger input is dead on. No issues. No it is not a Futaba by any stretch. I don't have PP.

Have you tried doing an Radio/ESC calibration yet???

+1.
I am just not daring enough to mod my NB4. So my Speed runners all use the RC6GS/R7FG
I give you creds for modding your NB4 for long range use.
The NB4 is one of the best Tx's out there. And the new firmware does afford the similar PP feature.

You don't have to mod the radio TX itself. Just add a second antenna to the receiver. The RX has 2 antenna ports but only comes with one installed.
It is all in the thread link posted above. Very easy just 4 tiny screws, pop on the additional antenna, make an exit hole in the plastic of the RX case, and done!
We have 3+ people confirm the results support runs over 3000 ft

My last run was 3900 ft with this radio without a signal booster!

 

[SrC]

^^^ You got me thinking now.
3900ft???????? just by adding the second ant. to the Rx only????
Which NB4 Rx specifically are you running with 2 ant.?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

^^^ You got me thinking now.
3900ft???????? just by adding the second ant. to the Rx only????
Which NB4 Rx specifically are you running with 2 ant.?

It needs to have the FCC software update on the TX, but yes adding the antenna to the RX is really all it takes for some great range and this radio is the quality/function of a $600 Futaba (better in some ways I think)

The RX is the FGr4 V2.

You can see here the original antenna and the black one that I plugged into the secondary port.

If you decide to go with this lots of great instruction in that thread posted earlier.
I will say that the radio starts saying signal lost around 1200 ft, but that is when it looses the 2 way signal for the telemetry data back to the radio. The car still drives just fine 400+ more feet

 

[SrC]

TYVM. Need to try this myself. I run the same Rx.
I believe you can trim your signal alarm down or "Off" to avoid "signal lost"????? IDK.
Have you tried this at all?

 

[LibertyMKiii]

TYVM. Need to try this myself. I run the same Rx.
I believe you can trim your signal alarm down or "Off" to avoid "signal lost"????? IDK.
Have you tried this at all?

I have been told you can in the sensors menu but I like to keep it on as it tells me when I am getting near the limits of the range.

 

[Notorious J]

Crashes mess up electronics for sure. It sounds like something funky is going on with either the radio TX or the perfect pass. (you have eliminated all other possibilities) It seems most likely the perfect pass is to blame.

If you were to replace it, the cost is around 75-115.00 USD
That is around 50% of the cost of making the change over to the Noble NB4 that has the built-in throttle speed function. That would be my recommendation.

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/signal-booster-install-on-the-flysky-noble-nb4.38545/page-7

I have been running with the antenna mod noted here on page 7 of the noble nb4 thread and it supports 1700+ ft distance away from you ( 3400+ ft runs assuming you stood somewhere near the middle of the run.)

I'm going to take out the PP and hope that my trigger finger is smooth enough to get a decent run in. I remember how bad I was and the effect it has on a run. Too much to quick pulls amperage out of the battery too early, and alters the performance at the top end. We'll see how much better I am today compared to the brutal beginnings of my speed run journey. In the end, I'll always have my 6s 141 mph pass on a tank that I fudged together myself over time. I'd say I met and surpassed any goal I had ever tried to reach.

 

[joshludden]

I'm going to take out the PP and hope that my trigger finger is smooth enough to get a decent run in. I remember how bad I was and the effect it has on a run. Too much to quick pulls amperage out of the battery too early, and alters the performance at the top end. We'll see how much better I am today compared to the brutal beginnings of my speed run journey. In the end, I'll always have my 6s 141 mph pass on a tank that I fudged together myself over time. I'd say I met and surpassed any goal I had ever tried to reach.

Good luck brother!!

 

[SrC]

I'm going to take out the PP and hope that my trigger finger is smooth enough to get a decent run in. I remember how bad I was and the effect it has on a run. Too much to quick pulls amperage out of the battery too early, and alters the performance at the top end. We'll see how much better I am today compared to the brutal beginnings of my speed run journey. In the end, I'll always have my 6s 141 mph pass on a tank that I fudged together myself over time. I'd say I met and surpassed any goal I had ever tried to reach.

Dialing in the Throttle Expo at the radio can also help with a moderate pull of the Thr.

 

[ABabyEater]

I ran the Radiolink for a while before switching, and I seem to remember it having a "channel speed" function. A friend of mine used it to dial turn speed down to like 4% for his super scale crawlers to simulate an actual driver with a steering wheel... has anyone checked to see if this setting can be applied to the throttle? Seems like it would be the same as the Noble.

 

[BashingBrian]

I'm late to the party, what is Perfect Pass ??

 

[jondilly1974]

I'm late to the party, what is Perfect Pass ??

Its a speed controller for your throttle input. It smoothly ramps up your throttle input from 0-100% in a linear line. This helps minimize amp spikes during speed runs.

 

[BashingBrian]

Its a speed controller for your throttle input. It smoothly ramps up your throttle input from 0-100% in a linear line. This helps minimize amp spikes during speed runs.

Cheers @jondilly1974 .. I thought you could add a linear throttle curve in a Castle ESC??, I think my Futaba lets me do this too

 

[jkflow]

I ran the Radiolink for a while before switching, and I seem to remember it having a "channel speed" function. A friend of mine used it to dial turn speed down to like 4% for his super scale crawlers to simulate an actual driver with a steering wheel... has anyone checked to see if this setting can be applied to the throttle? Seems like it would be the same as the Noble.

Yes, can easily be applied to the throttle. Problem is that it only works in both directions at the same time, i.e. if it takes 2s to get to full it will also take 2s to go down to zero, no quick braking with this setup. No idea if there is a workaround for that.

 

[jondilly1974]

Cheers @jondilly1974 .. I thought you could add a linear throttle curve in a Castle ESC??, I think my Futaba lets me do this too

My Flysky Noble NB4 has what they call CH Speed, which is the same as the PP. It can be set just for Forward only. It’s different than an expo as it’s a flat linear line, not a curve. The Castle firmware doesn’t have this feature that I know of. Futaba radios don’t either afaik. Raz uses a Futaba radio and wouldn’t have needed to develop this product otherwise.

 

[Diem Turner]

My Flysky Noble NB4 has what they call CH Speed, which is the same as the PP. It can be set just for Forward only. It’s different than an expo as it’s a flat linear line, not a curve. The Castle firmware doesn’t have this feature that I know of. Futaba radios don’t either afaik. Raz uses a Futaba radio and wouldn’t have needed to develop this product otherwise.

Futaba only provides three seconds worth of delay.

Cheers @jondilly1974 .. I thought you could add a linear throttle curve in a Castle ESC??, I think my Futaba lets me do this too

No, you can only adjust the expo for throttle and brake in a Castle ESC. It's not a throttle curve, it adjusts how the ESC responds to the trigger position.

 

[BashingBrian]

My Flysky Noble NB4 has what they call CH Speed, which is the same as the PP. It can be set just for Forward only. It’s different than an expo as it’s a flat linear line, not a curve. The Castle firmware doesn’t have this feature that I know of. Futaba radios don’t either afaik. Raz uses a Futaba radio and wouldn’t have needed to develop this product otherwise.

Maybe he (Raz) just did it to make money ( saying that though, I know he's not short of cash )

Futaba only provides three seconds worth of delay.

No, you can only adjust the expo for throttle and brake in a Castle ESC. It's not a throttle curve, it adjusts how the ESC responds to the trigger position.

I'm currently reading my 7PXR manual 204 pages..!! I'm sure it's in there somewhere..
Found this... is this similar ??

 

[Diem Turner]

Maybe he (Raz) just did it to make money ( saying that though, I know he's not short of cash )



I'm currently reading my 7PXR manual 204 pages..!! I'm sure it's in there somewhere..
Found this... is this similar ??

View attachment 236167

No, that's throttle expo. Go to menu > speed > throttle. There you can adjust throttle speed from 100 (instant reaction) down to 1 (three seconds from full trigger pull to 100%).

This is mode 3 which gives you three acceleration points (for a total of 3 seconds delay). I couldn't find a pic of mode 1 atm. There it's all just in one acceleration point.