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Is there any relatively cheap, easy & effective solution/ fix for stripped screw holes in plastic? Could I just squirt some super glue or something in the hole? Just curious
I did but i wasnt able to get a good grip
I can't say that I've stripped any! Are you using a impact gun 😅😅😅😅 but I feel ya..
Nope hand threaded
Put a small cable tie down the length of the threated hole then screw the screw in.
I would have but not something as important like in a diff
 
I did but i wasnt able to get a good grip

Nope hand threaded

I would have but not something as important like in a diff
I have a solution that has worked flawlessly on any stripped plastic holes. Strip the tubing off of 1" of 8-10 guage wire, cut it and then twist it lightly. Place it in the stripped hole and insert the screw. It's easiest when there's about 1/8 to 3/16 sticking out of the hole. The wire begins to spread as soon as you start turning the screw and fills all the voids. You can snug it to ~90% as tight as the original, and will hold just fine. Same applies for stripped metal holes. It's the same as using a helicoil. I have not had one failure using this process, and I use it quite a bit.
 
I have a solution that has worked flawlessly on any stripped plastic holes. Strip the tubing off of 1" of 8-10 guage wire, cut it and then twist it lightly. Place it in the stripped hole and insert the screw. It's easiest when there's about 1/8 to 3/16 sticking out of the hole. The wire begins to spread as soon as you start turning the screw and fills all the voids. You can snug it to ~90% as tight as the original, and will hold just fine. Same applies for stripped metal holes. It's the same as using a helicoil. I have not had one failure using this process, and I use it quite a bit.
Seems like that would work really well for the hole in the a arms where the mud guards go. Getting started with the "feel" of tightness of everything still. Screws into plastic is still a "sensitive" subject w/ me, just trying to feel tightness without going too far (Sorry about the dad joke)
 
Seems like that would work really well for the hole in the a arms where the mud guards go. Getting started with the "feel" of tightness of everything still. Screws into plastic is still a "sensitive" subject w/ me, just trying to feel tightness without going too far (Sorry about the dad joke)
It's the one thing that everyone needs to learn about working on rc's. When they create a new plastic part, the holes are unthreaded. When they insert the screw, the thread is created and is usually very tight. When we take that screw out, we are deceived into believing that the screw has to be super tight when putting it back. It takes some time to adjust your mindset that once it's snug, that's enough. I use an electric screwdriver now for most of my rc repairs. I hold the button very lightly when screwing into plastic so the second I feel resistance, I let go. I then take out my hex driver to test to see if a light turn is needed, but usually I get it right the first time. There's few things worse than stripping a hole and not being able to run because of it. That's why I cam up with the wire hack to save any that get wrecked. Someone mentioned the zip tie trick, but I found that this option expands the hole too much and won't last. The wire hack allows a small amount of metal to circle the original threads of the hole and fill them in.
 
Alrighty then. As I am extremely confident that no one will intentionally try to beat him over the next two days, I am coming in early with this month's winner. If you follow this thread at all, you know that beating him would mean that you no longer value your rc. He has proven time and time again that almost any rc can go faster than intended, and continues to amaze us with his exploits. But as the old saying goes, speed kills and this month it took out two birds with one stone (or one flying Typhon to be exact). As it is, his destruction this month included a fellow member's 1:1 car, so I'm letting him share in the glory. Congratulations to @K-BASH for once again helping the environment by shredding plastic into pieces that could be recycled very easily, and to @real_name_hidden for being such a good friend/sport and not over-reacting about the fact that someone's rc car just gave his rear bumper a facelift.
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Stripped another CVD on the Bigrock running 4s yesterday. That's both rears now from the used set I bought from another forum member. Replaced it and had an awesome bash and then checking rig over after noticed my rear diff is locked up so may have killed the internal gears.
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Stripped another CVD on the Bigrock running 4s yesterday. That's both rears now from the used set I bought from another forum member. Replaced it and had an awesome bash and then checking rig over after noticed my rear diff is locked up so may have killed the internal gears. View attachment 214546
It's crazy what big tires do to the diffs.im running stock plastic axles,diffs everything on crazy power with no problems over 6hp 116mph on 98mm grps
 
It's crazy what big tires do to the diffs.im running stock plastic axles,diffs everything on crazy power with no problems over 6hp 116mph on 98mm grps
2 hrs after posting about NOT tearing diffs up.stripped a rear on this vid.bigger,heavier,lwb with noto body.

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Kraton. After a numerous times running 8s and of course 6s. Pin finally snapped clean off. I've had this rc4wd rear shaft for a year. It's a little thicker than the arrma one.

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Imagine if you had one of them singular hand thumb steering jobs, it would probably be a pancake.
Probably so. With the nb4. I can't even reach the steering one handed. Since it's farther away.
 
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