- Thread starter
- #61
let me know how they work out for you!
maybe I need to buy the other pair before they sell out lol
8s rigs 10mm shock alternative?
- Thread starter aametzger
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maybe I need to buy the other pair before they sell out lol
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- #62
So I got the video posted showing the test run with the Rovan 10mm shocks, I also ordered a 2nd pair and will be likely putting them on the front to see how it performs with them on all 4 corners. check out the vid below if your interested
anthonyslwooko
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Man I might pick some of these up. Have you found any plastic rod ends that’ll replace the metal ones on the Rovan shocks? The metal ends will probably transfer the breakage to some other part
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- #64
I have not. I just looked on their site and they do have some plastic ends, but it doesn't look like they are designed for these shocks. https://www.rovanrc.com/product-rv65058-4
With this setup there are only 4 other things that can break - top or bottom screw, the arm or the shock tower. I'm not too concerned about those items. I suspect I will snap screws to be honest. With the lower screw it sticks out a little on the back side so I will be able to grab it to remove the broken part of the screw. On the top screw I don't think it sticks out on the back side. I may switch to a slightly longer screw so I will be able to back out a broken screw vs replacing the tower.
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I'm using the GPM tower. I cracked my rear tower on a tumble within seconds of running it for the first time. The best thing is that the screw runs clean through the tower into a lock nut. So when it bends or breaks, it can be replaced with no headaches.
BTW, the stock screw is 10.9, the GPM screw is crappy stainless. I used 12.9 & I found these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JZXCR8G/
REALLY dirt cheap & I use this length for a ton of other things. It's really a box of 200 AND they're really 12.9 which blew my mind
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- Thread starter
- #66
Cool. Yea I have never broke a tower (now that I said that I will, lol) but one thing I do like about the gpm, is the multiple mounting positions. Which hole is the closest to stock location?I'm using the GPM tower. I cracked my rear tower on a tumble within seconds of running it for the first time. The best thing is that the screw runs clean through the tower into a lock nut. So when it bends or breaks, it can be replaced with no headaches.
BTW, the stock screw is 10.9, the GPM screw is crappy stainless. I used 12.9 & I found these on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JZXCR8G/
REALLY dirt cheap & I use this length for a ton of other things. It's really a box of 200 AND they're really 12.9 which blew my mind
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The inner holes line up perfectly.
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- #69
**UPDATE**
Outcast 8s:
I received the 2nd pair of rovan front shocks and will hopefully get them rebuilt and installed in the next couple days. I may play with the shock oil weight to obtain the right front to rear balance. I might move the rovans that are on the rear, to the front so i can see how/if they rebound differently or the same. Based on that i will adjust oil weight for the 2nd pair.
Kraton 8s MT XLT
The first run of the kraton mt went well and i'm very excited about this build. If you have not seen the first run video, here's the link
One of the things I want to do with this build is to get it a higher MT stance. There is room to raise the body up some, but I really wanted to make the whole truck taller. While investigating the shocks for the outcast (rovan fronts) I also had my eye on the rovan rear shocks that have been out of stock for a while. The rear shocks for the rovan are 3/4 inch longer than the fronts - 8 1/2 inches eyelet to eyelet. Fortunately they just came back in stock so i ordered one pair to do testing on the kraton MT. I plan to try to put 4 rears on all 4 corners with this rig. I already have the rpm front arms installed and they do not have the section for the droop screw, so the arm can travel down further to accommodate the longer shock. I have a set of rpm rear arms with mudguards that i plan to install soon. I am also interested to see how differently they react regarding compression and rebound. I don't know if the spring is stiffer, or how many holes or size of holes in the piston compared to the fronts. I will need to likely redo all the testing like i did with the front shocks to determine the best weight oil to use on theses rear shocks.
More to come!
Outcast 8s:
I received the 2nd pair of rovan front shocks and will hopefully get them rebuilt and installed in the next couple days. I may play with the shock oil weight to obtain the right front to rear balance. I might move the rovans that are on the rear, to the front so i can see how/if they rebound differently or the same. Based on that i will adjust oil weight for the 2nd pair.
Kraton 8s MT XLT
The first run of the kraton mt went well and i'm very excited about this build. If you have not seen the first run video, here's the link
One of the things I want to do with this build is to get it a higher MT stance. There is room to raise the body up some, but I really wanted to make the whole truck taller. While investigating the shocks for the outcast (rovan fronts) I also had my eye on the rovan rear shocks that have been out of stock for a while. The rear shocks for the rovan are 3/4 inch longer than the fronts - 8 1/2 inches eyelet to eyelet. Fortunately they just came back in stock so i ordered one pair to do testing on the kraton MT. I plan to try to put 4 rears on all 4 corners with this rig. I already have the rpm front arms installed and they do not have the section for the droop screw, so the arm can travel down further to accommodate the longer shock. I have a set of rpm rear arms with mudguards that i plan to install soon. I am also interested to see how differently they react regarding compression and rebound. I don't know if the spring is stiffer, or how many holes or size of holes in the piston compared to the fronts. I will need to likely redo all the testing like i did with the front shocks to determine the best weight oil to use on theses rear shocks.
More to come!
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I might have to try this setup, I do have the body after all. I felt like ditching the aluminum arms for RPMs anyway, too much weight. The rear arms aren't a problem for the longer shocks but the fronts are limited to about 1cm longer travel due to the pillow balls hitting the steering blocks.
You guys ever think about limiting the shock travel internally like the crawler crowd?
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- #72
Thanks for the response and interest! Yea, I haven't got that far regarding the front, but now you got me thinking. I should know more when I try to mount the rovan fronts on the front of the outcast. I should be able to tell if i'm going to have the extra extension to fit the larger rear. Also part of the reason I only ordered one pair of rears. I wanted to make sure they fit on all 4 corners before I dropped more coin.
if i understand what you are saying, i'm not sure that would be good for 20-30ft landings
Well it should not have any effect on landing as the item used for limiting is located under the shock piston. Idk but maybe I'm wrong. Im just a hands on guy not an RC guru
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- #74
i'm not a guru either, just experimenting. So this device reduces travel by limiting how far the shock can extend? i'm not sure that is what i'm looking to do, but maybe i need to do some research on what you are suggesting so that i can know if it applies to my situation.
TheDad
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From what I remember from way back in the day with my...... wait for it..... savage flux lol, there was no option for setting any kind of droop. So the workaround was to put short pieces of fuel line on the shock shaft between the piston and bottom of shock body. This limited the shocks ability to bottom out but also the fuel tubing would squish a bit so as not to be a solid sudden stop.
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- #76
cool. good idea! Im not sure that bottoming out the shock is going to be an issue with this setup, but i will keep that idea in mind for sure! thanks!
Yes it does. Pardon my misunderstanding I skimmed through the thread and though it sounded like you were saying the shocks are too long.
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- #78
Yea no trouble. The last couple posts in the thread sent things in a slightly different direction. I understand how things got mixed up. No worries! 4 pages of posts on the subject can make us all mixed up lol. I should really have this in a build post actually. Thanks for contributing and for your posts. That’s what I love about this forum. We are all just collaborating towards the same goal. More fun from our rc’s! Bash on!
- Thread starter
- #79
Update:
Outcast 8s
Ok got the front shocks installed on the outcast 8s . I used 5000wt in the front and I still have 6000wt in the rear (from earlier testing). Seems good in the drop test, but maybe you guys can give your thoughts. heres the vid - https://www.instagram.com/p/CLXtAoin7c2/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Kraton MT XLT
I ordered one pair of the longer rovan rears for testing. I should be getting them by the end of the week.
Outcast 8s
Ok got the front shocks installed on the outcast 8s . I used 5000wt in the front and I still have 6000wt in the rear (from earlier testing). Seems good in the drop test, but maybe you guys can give your thoughts. heres the vid - https://www.instagram.com/p/CLXtAoin7c2/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Kraton MT XLT
I ordered one pair of the longer rovan rears for testing. I should be getting them by the end of the week.
You may want to extend the rear arms with the shocks off to see if 3/4" more will cause binding in the cvd cups. Extending the arms that far will put the joints at a greater angle which can break cups in half, or in the very least, cause more wear. Just something to think about before spending the $.
