Yeah, sorry about that.. I posted before researching it..The kit sounds like a good deal as bundled.
But it's gone.
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Yeah, sorry about that.. I posted before researching it..The kit sounds like a good deal as bundled.
But it's gone.
Just like the Typhon is 1/8 and the Senton is 1/10, both have the same wheel base.Yeah SCT's were originally based on 1/8 buggy platform and it's dimensions. Yet considered 1/10 and driven in 1/10 class.
This is a nice conversion kit. A great option.
I never saw this before.
My Mojave handles like a floaty bouncy cloud and I love it..!! As for sway bar balls, have a look at Corally their's are a direct fit into the Arrma drop links..I'm somewhat fixated on the mojave now..trying to get it to handle more like the Tekno. I think it needs stiffer fluid in the shocks along with thhicker sway bars. I've already installed the heaviest springs Arrma offers, along with 60 weight fluid,still too soft for the track though. Thinking 80 weight should help. I swapped the cheesy Arrma sway bar pivots out for some high end Redcat ones I had laying around.. I'm joking about Redcat being high end of course, but honestly, compared to the crap plastic pivot balls Arrma is using, the Redcat ones are high end,LOL.
Here's my home made Tekno copies of the side plates, I thought they'd keep more dirt out, how wrong was I..Tekno makes Lexan pieces that sit flat onto the SCT side Plate bumpers. Supposedly to prevent parachuting. But these might also reduce much of the dirt ingress as well. You could make your own, perhaps longer and wider to prevent dirt kick up even better
Just an idea.
Yup, ur sct looks exactly how my mojave looked earlier this year in the spring... I don't know what ur cleaning regimen is, but my mojave will never look the same again! LOL.My Mojave handles like a floaty bouncy cloud and I love it..!! As for sway bar balls, have a look at Corally their's are a direct fit into the Arrma drop links..
Here's my home made Tekno copies of the side plates, I thought they'd keep more dirt out, how wrong was I..
View attachment 249544
I agree, most is from the front tires, but what I also have found is the debris thrown by the rear tires seems to deflect off the body and into the tub of the chassis.. I'm betting with some hdpe or kydex sheet, some heat, and patience could yield some nice copies of the Scorched RC parts. I just need the ingredients, time and patience, LOL.^^^
I am impressed.
It is not all that dirty IMHO.
Side guards work.
Try extending the front mud guards outward to the body more.
FWIW,
I feel it's the front wheels that kick up most of the dirt and mud when the wheels turn at extreme angles.
Those front mudguards practically touch the inside of the body, only about 1/4" gap..!!^^^
I am impressed.
It is not all that dirty IMHO.
Side guards work.
Try extending the front mud guards outward to the body more.
FWIW,
I feel it's the front wheels that kick up most of the dirt and mud when the wheels turn at extreme angles.
I like to clean when I come home, but that pic above and this past Sunday have broke my spirit with bashing in the winterI don't know what ur cleaning regimen is, but my mojave will never look the same again! LOL.
I hear ya..I always do it to myself.. I'm not running in the snow or mud again!! Then a week or two later.. well, you know the cycle,LOL.Those front mudguards practically touch the inside of the body, only about 1/4" gap..!!
It's amazing how much dirt it seems to suck inside..
I like to clean when I come home, but that pic above and this past Sunday have broke my spirit with bashing in the winter
Both times the cleaning took 4 times longer than the bash session and I agree neither trucks will ever be the same again..!!
I've ordered up some 80 weight to put into the Mojave. See if it helps. I also got the Arrma lsd to open shim kits, one for the 'Jave and one for the Kraton. I see what some have said about the back of the sun gears not having adequate bracing now..shouldn't be a problem in the 'Jave since I only run 5s. I'm thinking I will go considerably lighter on diff fluids to see if I can get better handling on my track. 10/10/7 front/center/rear. That's pretty standard for most 3 diff race rigs. Gotta do some more shimming to get the diffs working smoothly, the Arrma reccomended setup is too tight, the diffs are binding.My Mojave handles like a floaty bouncy cloud and I love it..!! As for sway bar balls, have a look at Corally their's are a direct fit into the Arrma drop links..
I've seen the EB48SL before, like most vehicles listed on the tekno website it's discontinuedApparently it wasn't very popular, it's been discontinued for some time.. I know for certain the hub adapters (17mm) are available, I would suspect most other pertinent parts still are as well. Just not the kit. It does sound interesting though.
This gives me some inspiration! I think i can make some flexible fender with gorilla tape. It shouldn't add much weight at all, and I shouldn't have to worry about it being too rigid and causing issues. I just need to find some velcro tape to secure the side. Nice work @BashingBrian !My Mojave handles like a floaty bouncy cloud and I love it..!! As for sway bar balls, have a look at Corally their's are a direct fit into the Arrma drop links..
Here's my home made Tekno copies of the side plates, I thought they'd keep more dirt out, how wrong was I..
View attachment 249544
It should have started raining for the winter by now. But hasn't. Some calling it an "Indian Summer" or a dry fall. Either way, i'm LOVING the extra sunshine. Otherwise, yeah i would totally be in this cycle lolI hear ya..I always do it to myself.. I'm not running in the snow or mud again!! Then a week or two later.. well, you know the cycle,LOL.
Hmm, i had considered exactly what you listed above as an option, just didn't see anywhere that mentioned compatibility so I figured i'd go with the "17mm kit" at the beginning. In theory this should work just fine. All you're doing is replacing the widened hex piece in the 17mm kit with a "flat" one. Honestly, you could probably buy any cheapo knockoff for that matter, or any 17mm hex with the same axle diameter and pin size.@Hector_Fisher I posted this on TF,but will do so here as well..
Tekno offers a couple options for 17mm wheel hex. The first is cheaper and includes everything to do one axle each(front or rear). The second is buying pieces individually, which does cost more, but if you're like me and have 12mm(17mm wrench size) wheel nuts a plenty..
View attachment 249765
View attachment 249766
View attachment 249767
These parts are listed specifically for the sct by Tekno.. one thing that will foil the options is that the steel stubs have to be thin enough to fit through the sct's hubs and hub bearings. The Tekno conversion aluminium hub adapter(17mm) is thicker (smaller ID)than a standard 17mm hub adapter. Traditional 1/8 stub axles are 8mm.Hmm, i had considered exactly what you listed above as an option, just didn't see anywhere that mentioned compatibility so I figured i'd go with the "17mm kit" at the beginning. In theory this should work just fine. All you're doing is replacing the widened hex piece in the 17mm kit with a "flat" one. Honestly, you could probably buy any cheapo knockoff for that matter, or any 17mm hex with the same axle diameter and pin size.
Wondering if these would fit, as it would massively save on costs.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/284370496801
I mean a 17mm hex is a 17mm hex, right? The wheel nut is the same size, so it constrains how big the axle is...? I'll definitely keep looking into this. If I can buy hex's on the cheap, then i think i would prefer the slightly skinnier track. Realistically, it's only going to shave a few millimeters off from the stock SCT wheels/tire width though. So if you're looking for a SKINNIER SCT, this would probably be a good option.
Good call. Should have figured that the "super light" buggy option would have saved on weight by using smaller diameter axles I'm sure there was some compatibility stuff with the hub carriers too though.These parts are listed specifically for the sct by Tekno.. one thing that will foil the options is that the steel stubs have to be thin enough to fit through the sct's hubs and hub bearings. The Tekno conversion aluminium hub adapter(17mm) is thicker (smaller ID)than a standard 17mm hub adapter. Traditional 1/8 stub axles are 8mm.
Now it is possible one may be able to find an 1/8 hub carrier and stub axle that might fit the sct410 driveshaft, but that doesn't sound like an easy option IMO.
Shoot.. I just remembered I bought a set of these about a year ago for a project that never came together..they may slip right over the sct existing stub axles? Idk, but will add about 10mm width at each wheel.
You mean 6mm id(sct stub axle size) to 17mm hex adapter? The Redcat part I posted a picture of above is close, but I'll have to check and see what the actual ID of it is. The one's I have are 10mm extended, perhaps Redcat has them in "standard" whatever that may be. I see the drive pin location being a problem with the sct410 stub though,the spacing on them (Redcat adapters) looks too far away from the hub carrier.Good call. Should have figured that the "super light" buggy option would have saved on weight by using smaller diameter axles I'm sure there was some compatibility stuff with the hub carriers too though.
On that note, I don't know what the actual EB48SL axle diameter is (can measure when i get home), but i suspect there's got to be something out there that would work on this? Some existing 17mm hex that fit this axle size. If it was a cheap option, i might try it out. For $30? I'll probably pass for now since my current setup works and fits with the buggy wheels.
I'm keen to see what you're overall width is on your SCT with SC wheels/tires is, if you measure it. That'll give good numbers to compare to if taking off 14mm total with the slimmer hex's.
EDIT: using my power of logic and deductive reasoning, the axle is 6mm LOL. Just looked up the ball bearing size on the SCT instructions. 6mm hex possibly exists somewhere out there?
Come to think of it, wouldn't a reducer bushing work? Needs to be 6mm id x 8mm od and made of a material that can hold up..Good call. Should have figured that the "super light" buggy option would have saved on weight by using smaller diameter axles I'm sure there was some compatibility stuff with the hub carriers too though.
On that note, I don't know what the actual EB48SL axle diameter is (can measure when i get home), but i suspect there's got to be something out there that would work on this? Some existing 17mm hex that fit this axle size. If it was a cheap option, i might try it out. For $30? I'll probably pass for now since my current setup works and fits with the buggy wheels.
I'm keen to see what you're overall width is on your SCT with SC wheels/tires is, if you measure it. That'll give good numbers to compare to if taking off 14mm total with the slimmer hex's.
EDIT: using my power of logic and deductive reasoning, the axle is 6mm LOL. Just looked up the ball bearing size on the SCT instructions. 6mm hex possibly exists somewhere out there?
Yeah, the BB's were 6mm ID, so the axle OD would be 6mm. Yeah like you said, the extended redcat ones would pose an issue anyway since they would stick out. Agreed, i will probably get the slim ones eventually too. Mostly because i like having options!You mean 6mm id(sct stub axle size) to 17mm hex adapter? The Redcat part I posted a picture of above is close, but I'll have to check and see what the actual ID of it is. The one's I have are 10mm extended, perhaps Redcat has them in "standard" whatever that may be. I see the drive pin location being a problem with the sct410 stub though,the spacing on them (Redcat adapters) looks too far away from the hub carrier.
Honestly, when I have the funds, I will likely buy the Tekno "slim" adapters and stubs. I really like the idea of keeping the tires tucked under the body vs hanging out. Just my preference.
....nevermind the Redcat bits. I thought what I had were +10mm adapters. Turns out they're stock for the Backdraft 8E. Guess Redcat was playing the TRX angle with that model.
TRX angle meaning that they can easily and cheaply increase the width of a model by using wheels or hubs with positive offset.
Sure, it works, but not the right way to properly increase the width of a vehicle IMO. Just puts more leverage against parts that are already under a load, usually causing them to fail prematurely.
I think the tekno factory part TKR5569 would probably be the best option, ableit the most expensive. Anything outside that to save costs is going to be some sort of gamble or require finagling. So some sort of sleeve or adapter would probably work well. Cant decide whether i'd want a steel part or aluminum part (aluminum would reduce wear on the axles). Would be pretty easy to get some of this and cut it down to the right size for the adapter.Come to think of it, wouldn't a reducer bushing work? Needs to be 6mm id x 8mm od and made of a material that can hold up..
I'm all for creativity, as you saw in my previous postI concur, the Tekno parts are likely the best way to utilize 17mm wheels, whichever way one goes about it.
The sleeve reducers can definitely work, but will require some creativity. First thing that came to mind for me was how to secure the drive pins? There are "screw pins" such as TRX uses on alot of models, as did Losi on some. That would require tapping threads into the aluminum hex adapters. Not very hard I wouldn't think. Harder to find these screw pins in 2.5mm that Tekno uses as drive pins though.
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