Notorious Issues with diffs possibly. Video in thread

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Ok, so based on the video I posted wouldn’t that lead to the front diff? The front keeps spinning while brakes are applied and spin faster.

I will check the front diff again and also the input cup.


I don't know..as stated I can not see the front output cup on the center diff.. so you would need to check it again but pay close attention to which spins faster..

The power will follow the path of least resistance..

And you have to pull the sun gears, no choice if you want to see the output drive pins.. the center tiny gears are planetary gears.. the sun gears are the large ones on each output cup shank..(each side of the planetary gears)..
 
Ok I’ll check the front cup now. All the pins in all three diffs looks great. So now that the diffs have been eliminated as the issue. Time to move on to the next one ?. Thank you all for the help thus far.
 
There's a clear problem with your rear diff too - pull the diff out again and check all of the ring gear teeth, input gear teeth and all of the bearings
 
That cup on the diff

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There's a clear problem with your rear diff too - pull the diff out again and check all of the ring gear teeth, input gear teeth and all of the bearings
I’ve pulled them out three times already and inspected them. No broken teeth, bearings seem fine, pins are good
don't do like i did. Bust two diffs on a brand new noto in 30 seconds on 6s??? and never left the ground
Dang, now that is crazy. I’ve yet to venture into the 6s world.
It's your front input cup. Noticed the wheels kept rolling while the rear stopped
Don’t have time right now but that’s the next thing to check. Looks like you have to take apart the entire front clip just the gain access to it.
 
All is well, hard lesson to learn. HH warrantied both and a input gear but was a two month backorder. I went ahead n ordered what gears shims pins i needed and got it back going. Im 8 packs into it with no probs. I went a little crazy on how thick i did the diff oil though. I can put it on the roof at 40 mph ??
@Lovestricken you look like me with all those bagged diffs! ?
 
All is well, hard lesson to learn. HH warrantied both and a input gear but was a two month backorder. I went ahead n ordered what gears shims pins i needed and got it back going. Im 8 packs into it with no probs. I went a little crazy on how thick i did the diff oil though. I can put it on the roof at 40 mph ??

@Lovestricken you look like me with all those bagged diffs! ?
I have 5 f/r v4 diffs 3 center v4 diffs 1 center exb and 2 f/r exb diffs built all ready to drop in lol
 
I have 5 f/r v4 diffs 3 center v4 diffs 1 center exb and 2 f/r exb diffs built all ready to drop in lol
Lol iv got two bagged have not shimmed yet and two ready to drop in and shimmed. I bought some 500k oil and mixed 10k and 500k together. Straight 500k in center. Thicker in front than rear. Prob around 150 front 100 rear lol turning radius went down lol
 
have you checked the 4 screws on the outside diff cover/ diff tower ? Im not sure the name of it but its the piece that you unscrew to get access to the diff if any of the screws were loose it allows the diff to wiggle and mess up the mesh. Also a big tip when installing this piece once you got it lined up with the bearings and holes put all 4 screws in a few threads and then tighten them in sequence corner to corner .If you just tighten on screw the entire way in its possible for the case to be crooked which is bad because its the thing that holds the bearings in place. Judging by everything you have checked so far im pretty sure its the diff tower case i had the exact same problem with mine. If any of those 4 screws are loose its very easy for the torque to twist the diff good luck
 
have you checked the 4 screws on the outside diff cover/ diff tower ? Im not sure the name of it but its the piece that you unscrew to get access to the diff if any of the screws were loose it allows the diff to wiggle and mess up the mesh. Also a big tip when installing this piece once you got it lined up with the bearings and holes put all 4 screws in a few threads and then tighten them in sequence corner to corner .If you just tighten on screw the entire way in its possible for the case to be crooked which is bad because its the thing that holds the bearings in place. Judging by everything you have checked so far im pretty sure its the diff tower case i had the exact same problem with mine. If any of those 4 screws are loose its very easy for the torque to twist the diff good luck
Good advice. That’s actually part of the pre run check I do. Check those, shock tower screws, wheel nuts and motor mount before every run.
 
I've busted just about everything on my driveline in my notorious multiple times lol. It is a loose input Cup grub/set screw " the cups that gets power to the diff from the center diff, could be front or rear", or it's Spider gears inside one of the diffs, or the Pin behind the Sun gears inside the diff, not the pins that hold the spiders you'll prolly never break those. Or it could be a broken pin on the turnbuckle behind the tires 17mm hex.

most common for me is as follows


Rear diff, OMG ring/pinion"input", just converted to an aluminum backpanel on the diff case, and gp4 diff and input gear, shimmed it nicely. Should last a very long time now.

Center diff is where I blow spiders generally

Font diff rarely the ring/pinion"input"

A few times the Grub screw on the outdrive cups has come lose both Front gearbox and Rear
 
First of all. Merry Christmas everyone!!

So I got it back halfway fixed. The drive cup on the front was loose. Thank you all. It is now moving like normal but it’s making the racket sound though. What is that? Diffs are good, drive cup is tight now. I’m so confused. I can get a better video tomorrow if need be but the sound is all I was going for.
 
Happens all the if removed.almost need red loctite .it'll keep coming off on blue.best solution is to get exb ones they can't come loose an off.....?

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Cheaper to go with these.ive lost cup an axle a few times.with exb one can't spin on input gear shafts cause grooved an driveshaft keeps it on.
 
Happens all the if removed.almost need red loctite .it'll keep coming off on blue.best solution is to get exb ones they can't come loose an off.....?
View attachment 115858
Cheaper to go with these.ive lost cup an axle a few times.with exb one can't spin on input gear shafts cause grooved an driveshaft keeps it on.
Awesome, I’ll see about getting a set when I get this issue resolved ?


So I am thinking it’s the gear mesh. Maybe something moved on one of the many impacts. It’s silent when the motor pinion is removed. Granted it’s not going as fast like it would under normal battery power.
 
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Sounds like the weird sound is heard mostly under power or on the brakes tells you its in drivetrain.things I wound try=check all axles driveshafts for warping & them coming into contact with anything. All outdrives turning strait,clear of things.droop screws on front to loose an outdrives can contact arms.all motor mounts tight &diff housing screws.i now you checked but sounds like front pin behind sungear after its in there in 4 or 5 pieces to me.spray drivetrain an bearings with lube seized bearings?.are you carefully inspecting ring gears for wavy sections of outside teeth missing.hold diff in hand an rotate making sure teeth are Straight an not waved
 
Checked all the drive shafts and they’re straight. Didn’t see where they would be rubbing on anything. Checked the gear mesh again and it seems fine.

Tried it out after rechecking everything. The truck seems like it doesn’t want to wheelie constantly and is just making an annoying racket.

I’ve been in and out of RCs for about 8 years and owned many. I’ve never been so stumped.
 
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