What dumb mistakes have you made working on RCs

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Forgot to disconnect the motor on my Limitless when changing some settings in the transmitter. Did something that caused instant full throttle. Ended up laying 4 strips of rubber across the work bench and up my hand (vaporizing skin in the process). No damage to the car but my hand took a couple weeks to heal. Had rubber around the perimeter of the wound pretty much for the entire healing process.
 
Forgot to disconnect the motor on my Limitless when changing some settings in the transmitter. Did something that caused instant full throttle. Ended up laying 4 strips of rubber across the work bench and up my hand (vaporizing skin in the process). No damage to the car but my hand took a couple weeks to heal. Had rubber around the perimeter of the wound pretty much for the entire healing process.
Damn, that sounds about as fun as masturbating with a cheese grater.

To remedy this issue, if you haven't already, I'd seriously recommend investing $30-40 in a stand for your vehicle. I know this exact situation surely will never be replicated, but you never know. That way your car would at least be off of the work surface. Two other options would be to loosen the motor mount and slide the motor back a few millimeters or take the wheels off the car.
 
Damn, that sounds about as fun as masturbating with a cheese grater.

To remedy this issue, if you haven't already, I'd seriously recommend investing $30-40 in a stand for your vehicle. I know this exact situation surely will never be replicated, but you never know. That way your car would at least be off of the work surface. Two other options would be to loosen the motor mount and slide the motor back a few millimeters or take the wheels off the car.
Engine cut on the nb4 is now my friend šŸ˜†
 
Damn, that sounds about as fun as masturbating with a cheese grater.

To remedy this issue, if you haven't already, I'd seriously recommend investing $30-40 in a stand for your vehicle. I know this exact situation surely will never be replicated, but you never know. That way your car would at least be off of the work surface. Two other options would be to loosen the motor mount and slide the motor back a few millimeters or take the wheels off the car.

I actually ordered a stand later that day and have used it ever since when working on the car..
 
I actually ordered a stand later that day and have used it ever since when working on the car..
That sounds like it's sucked, pretty bad. People don't realize how dangerous a toy car can be.

To avoid that and flat spots, I usually take the wheels off and leave them off until I need them. I use the Hoons for testing and GRPs for running.
 
Took a brand new Bigrock out the box, did a quick go over before the run, set endpoints etc. and took for granted the esc was in lipo mode. Guess what, it wasn't, puffed a perfectly good 3S. Pissed to say the least, cells were at 2. something, had to use the nimh method to get it back.

My fault I know, but why would a Arrma 3s rig come in nimh mode anyway, thanks little Chinaman, Lesson learned.
 
I use the HW max6 box for my limitless.
I store my RC vehicles on the boxes parts come in to keep the tires from getting flat spots, and I occasionally use a box as a work stand if my real work stand is in use.

RC vehicles on boxes.jpg
 
Same here, I use small boxes, blocks of wood, really anything around the house to get them off the tires. Too many rigs to invest into dedicated stands.
 
I get it, I used various objects around the house for good long while too. But at some point I said, screw it, and ordered one. It was money well spent. I wouldn't get more than one as I typically only work on one car at a time but, I will say this...it's sooo much nicer to work on a car that's perched on a proper stand with detents every 45Ā°. Is it strictly necessary? No. But it does improve the general wrenching experience. I think so anyways.
 
This ā€œfixā€ will probably end up being a mistake, so Iā€™ll go ahead and post in this thread first and be done with it. :)

Last run, heat sink on my OC EXB 2050 motor rotated around so far the center outdrive started grinding on it. Thankfully no damage to outdrive, but I need something to ensure no heat sink rotation in the futureā€¦
Dab of gorilla glue on a metal washer wedged between chassis and heat sink.

53C4477B-42B3-452B-B967-1598FD1622B7.jpeg
 
I've made a few mistakes since doing the onroad speed run thing.

Not long ago I hadn't push a QS8-s connector completely in all the way and it got very hot and melted. Had to replace it. It was new.

Today I made an annoying mistake.

So I only get to do speed runs every second Sunday due to my roster and availability of the road I use. So today I charged 3 lipos, charged 2 gnss speed trackers, preparing the cars and waited for my son to get home as he's my spotter.

First run with the Typhon it was behaving weird. Delays to accelerate and braking and steering was weird. I had it up the road ready to do a run but it drove itself off the road. Still not sure what was going on, I tried again but traffic was coming. I tried to manoeuvre it off the road but it wouldn't respond. The 1:1 car was heading towards it fast and wasn't showing any signs of seeing the rc car. I had to stand on the road with my hands(and TX) in the air to get its attention. It swerved around it at the last minute. That was when I decided enough was enough and for that rc.

So next I got out the Limitless. At first it seemed ok. Slowly drove it up the road ready for a run. Got to about where the Typhon left the road and the Limitless did the same thing.

That's when I realised, it was the TX at fault.

Song story short: the range booster battery was flat. šŸ¤¦šŸ»ā€ā™‚ļø I forgot to charge it or even check it.

It was too late to go home and recharge it so I'll have to wait another 2 weeks to get out there.

Probably a good thing it didn't lose range at the other end, doing 100mph+
 
Not long ago I hadn't push a QS8-s connector completely in all the way and it got very hot and melted. Had to replace it. It was new.

Been there... It sucks. It's easy to miss. The Anti-spark side burns because when the aren't fully seated all the current goes through the 5Ī© resistor.

IMG_4456.JPG
IMG_4455.JPG



The Anti-spark side burns because when the aren't fully seated all the current goes through the 5Ī© resistor.

1714317178769.png
 
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