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How much air can you get on that John Deere?? ?
im down def in on that! john deere send it competition?
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How much air can you get on that John Deere?? ?
I dislike ball ends for this very reason.Replacing the ring/pinion in my outcast rear diff. Trying to stick with the arrma 2 piece cup... this time I cleaned out the screw holes with a q-tip and DA, then put a liberal dot of red loctite in. The cup is sealed on the cap end with RTV only to make the cup thinner and I was able to comfortably put 2 shims in on the ring gear side and the mesh feels perfect.
However, as I was putting the screws in the bulk/diff cap... 2 of them stripped. Then as I was removing the hinge pin retainers, my new (cheap garbage) 2mm ball end tip snapped off in the screw... 99% of the reason I had the bulk off the truck was to replace the hinge pin retainers after my last crash destroyed them and a pin... then I found the ring gear damaged issue... then the shims being ground up inside the case... and I do not have spares of the retainers. Took me 20 minutes with an awl and magnet to get the driver tip out of the stupid screw!
Then as I put the truck back on the shelf, fully assembled, thinking I was done, I sat down at my desk and saw the scorpion titanium ackerman bar laying there waiting to be installed. With my luck, the M2C chassis will break in half when I pick the truck up to start replacing the ackerman bar!
It never ends...
Those screws are the ones that did in my 2mm MIP. For whatever reason, they become so tight that even a great driver would have problems. I have since replaced with 2.5mm cap head screws, even though the holes are counter sunk. I'm still using the cap heads now that I've switched to aluminum hangers. If I can, I'll switch out every flat screw in my 6s truck.Replacing the ring/pinion in my outcast rear diff. Trying to stick with the arrma 2 piece cup... this time I cleaned out the screw holes with a q-tip and DA, then put a liberal dot of red loctite in. The cup is sealed on the cap end with RTV only to make the cup thinner and I was able to comfortably put 2 shims in on the ring gear side and the mesh feels perfect.
However, as I was putting the screws in the bulk/diff cap... 2 of them stripped. Then as I was removing the hinge pin retainers, my new (cheap garbage) 2mm ball end tip snapped off in the screw... 99% of the reason I had the bulk off the truck was to replace the hinge pin retainers after my last crash destroyed them and a pin... then I found the ring gear damaged issue... then the shims being ground up inside the case... and I do not have spares of the retainers. Took me 20 minutes with an awl and magnet to get the driver tip out of the stupid screw!
Then as I put the truck back on the shelf, fully assembled, thinking I was done, I sat down at my desk and saw the scorpion titanium ackerman bar laying there waiting to be installed. With my luck, the M2C chassis will break in half when I pick the truck up to start replacing the ackerman bar!
It never ends...
Great stuff.I got the Noto diffs replaced and now I'm back in business. Built a couple smaller wooden ramps for low flyin, crazy drivin that I'll photo soon. Also set up a 15g propane tank outside to fuel my indoor shop heater. I think I'll cut a couple donuts from a pool noodle to seal the hole I drilled in the shed a bit on either side.
View attachment 53442
I'm working on my brand new BRCC.
RTR stands Ready To Rebuild, right?
All bearings, pivot balls, steering bushings, servo etc. are on the list for replacement. This is how she looks after one run.
I would assume Hot Racing, they are the only ones I know of that make them, I really wish someone made some steel ones though.What pivot balls are you using?
If you really want to get crazy - check out Lunsford Racing - they have Titanium pivot balls. They're real - and they're spectacular!I would assume Hot Racing, they are the only ones I know of that make them, I really wish someone made some steel ones though.
I've seen a lot of their stuff, was going to buy a set of hinge pins from them for my RC10B2.If you really want to get crazy - check out Lunsford Racing - they have Titanium pivot balls. They're real - and they're spectacular!
Is your shed vented at all? I was considering buying one of these for my garage this winter and am concerned with the vapor buildup. I guess a little moisture won’t be bad in my dry garage, especially since the door gets opened at least twice a day. Just wondering if you should even seal the hole. ??I got the Noto diffs replaced and now I'm back in business. Built a couple smaller wooden ramps for low flyin, crazy drivin that I'll photo soon. Also set up a 15g propane tank outside to fuel my indoor shop heater. I think I'll cut a couple donuts from a pool noodle to seal the hole I drilled in the shed a bit on either side.
View attachment 53442
Is your shed vented at all? I was considering buying one of these for my garage this winter and am concerned with the vapor buildup. I guess a little moisture won’t be bad in my dry garage, especially since the door gets opened at least twice a day. Just wondering if you should even seal the hole. ??
I do the same if I can, not usually the countersunk/flat head screws though. But I replace any button head 2mm I can with a 2.5mm cap head. Kind of bit me in the butt when I installed the scorpion ackerman bar. There's a reason they use button heads to attach the tie-rods, cap heads hit the bottom of the upper arm. I dremeled the outside edge of the cap head at an angle, so it barely grazes the arm now.Those screws are the ones that did in my 2mm MIP. For whatever reason, they become so tight that even a great driver would have problems. I have since replaced with 2.5mm cap head screws, even though the holes are counter sunk. I'm still using the cap heads now that I've switched to aluminum hangers. If I can, I'll switch out every flat screw in my 6s truck.
I do the same thing with all my flat and button head screws that I can lol.I do the same if I can, not usually the countersunk/flat head screws though. But I replace any button head 2mm I can with a 2.5mm cap head. Kind of bit me in the butt when I installed the scorpion ackerman bar. There's a reason they use button heads to attach the tie-rods, cap heads hit the bottom of the upper arm. I dremeled the outside edge of the cap head at an angle, so it barely grazes the arm now.
It came with plates to replace the little wings on the axle carriers as well, so I put those on with cap heads too instead of stock button heads:
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